glorydime

Just curious with the slave cylinder off the transmission, how much play would the clutch fork have? Would an inch of play be a sign of something wrong in the bellhousing?

We will in do time, I'm going to make sure this friends truck runs with as much stick parts as possible. Only reason he went with a weber was because the stock hitachi was thrashed. But yeah sooner or later we will set him away from the original distributor and put in a matchbox.

The truck in the photo is a 70 and yeah on my 72 I had to cut the thread on the master to make sure the pedal didn't push. Last night to my surprise once I figured out about the brake switch we didn't have to shorten the master thread at all. Bleed and adjusted great. Lucked out. But yes on my 72 I don't have that clutch switch. By the way this truck will turn over without the clutch depressed. i think DanielC is correct. I don understand it but he must be right!!!

Hey DamielC, We are going to put a weber on this 1970. To disable can we just snip it out or do we need to do anything else to disable the switch on the clutch?

Thank you! Master cylinder installed and brake lights working great!

We're lucky the trucks at home in the garage, we've been slowly repairing stuff to get it back on the road. But this brake switch at the junction will work with out a pedal switch? I only ask cause if I need to instal a pedal switch might as well do it now before I put the new master cylinder in.

So odd my 72 521 doesn't have that neutral switch but has a brake pedal switch. This 70 521 has only a brake junction switch in the engine bay. Is this normal or do I need to instal another switch to the pedal or will the junction switch suffice for the brakes?

While I was replacing the master cylinder on a friends truck I noticed this Is this correct? Why would the switch be connected to the clutch?

Love those eyelids

Man I've been experiencing this exact problem, the rod is too long no matter how much I adjust the rod it will not fully release. I'm going to cut that rod tomorrow.

same thing happened to me, I ordered these and it is not the correct part. boo

Ohh I was under the impression that the 280 would take a lot more modifications than the FS5W63A

I take it back I did find a 78 200sx 5speed in Chicago but it was $800 shipped to Texas.

Figured out my brake issues (had 620 cylinders), rolling again. I was wondering if anyone could tell me how much my rpm would drop at hiway speeds if I lowered my pumpkin gear to 4:11 or 3:89 from stock. I have been looking for a dogleg with no luck as I assume afew people can feel. Anyways I would like to take my truck on road trips. Stock set up I can get to 70, just really pushing the rpm.

Super nice

Love the video updates, looking good!!

seriously just now I realized the stamp on the side is from a 620, I'm an idiot. Thank you I am going to order tonight and get on the road in a day or so!!!!!! if anyone is looking for 521 brakes, and notice a T101 on the side of the cylinder its a 620.

well, I still can't seem to get this going, i tried all the nissan dealerships and none offer y pipes, I tried a repair kit to only have it leak after I cleaned everything up and made sure it wasn't scored. Anyone else have an option, is there a conversion I can run? or anything, I want my truck back on the road.

Finney did you ever start a build thread on your 520? Great looking truck.

Thanks Daniel I'll try this option.

I tried rock autos even different brands, none fit, I'm gonna try a repair kit for now and upgrade to disc after that.

Damn, well I can't seem to find any bleeders or y pipes or I'd just switch over. Any options y'all can think I have? I'm thinking the repair kit is all I have.

Mike fixed it, IP unblocked

Anyone had both 3/4 and 13/16 not work? My bleeder and y won't go in for the fronts. T101 is the casting on the side of the wheel cylinder. I've tried rockauto and napa both sizes just won't take the y pipe.