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cooprasupra

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  • Location
    Austin, Texas
  • Cars
    1970 521, 2006 Mazda 3 2.3

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  1. Seems like I got what I need in the way of the hood. Anyone got any tips about the locked up hinge? Seems pretty unremovable to me
  2. Absolutely, bends like crazy
  3. Initially I wanted to tack it up but I was concerned with the thin gague of the steel, I asked a buddy of mine about it that does bodywork and he said I should not weld either.
  4. Not worried about the cosmetics but I have a wonky locked up hood hinge that is starting to crack and warp the hood.
  5. Just curious if anyone else has dealt with repairing these, did a fair amount of searching and could not find anything related enough. Right now I'm thinking the best option is jb weld or some sort of epoxy. Any advice would be appreciated.
  6. Some updates. All I have done today was adjust the rod from the master cylinder to the pedal and bleed it a bit more. The rod trick seems to have worked a bit. On the jack stands I started it up. I was able to properly shift into first with the motor running, reverse still grinds. Strange thing is though when I dropped the truck back to the ground I am unable to shift into first or second. Reverse still grinds. First or second do not grind, I am just physically unable to push the shifter into the gear. Third seems to get the truck rolling a little bit. I am confused :confused:
  7. Got some pics. Slave cylinder at rest. Slave with clutch pedal in. Clutch pedal at rest. Clutch pedal in. Length of rod I have coming out or master cylinder to pedal.
  8. What is normal play for the clutch fork?
  9. I can press to the floor and it does have resistance. I can post pics of the adjustment in the morning. From what I can tell it does nothing if I pump the pedal as far as shifting.
  10. The vehicle is not driving, it shifts freely when the motor is off however if the engine on it grinds when shifting into gear.
  11. There is an external spring and it does have a rod that goes through the throw out lever. I will also be consulting my shop manual.
  12. Would adjusting it further negatively effect the master cylinder? Slave travel is less than an inch at the moment.
  13. You are right, I over guessed the travel it is a 16th of an inch. I did trim down the rod from the master cylinder to the pedal because it would not fit initially. I did not want to cut it too much as I did not want to put pressure on the master cylinder when the pedal is not being pressed. Should I shorten it further?
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