demo243

Whooops wrong topic.... hang out till tomorrow or maybe monday when i get said rack... and ill post a picture... doohhhh

ordered a thule roof rack for it so I can carry around my bikes... despite not having a backseat i still cant fit a bike in the car... damn rollbar

my thinking- if it might need to be packed with grease... pack it... I went the double sealed route from NAPA, don't remember the numbers but i could get them for you if needed... as long as I can find the box - As for grease- go big or go home - I use the mobil 1 stuff. for the tub it might seam expensive, but when you consider how much grease you use on parts- there is a ton of grease in that tub so it accounts to like 5 cents a packing... The mobil 1 hasnt failed me yet. from bikes to cars - bearings to lockers (have an electornic rear diff locker on my truck) seems awesome, highly recomended by many so

Nice 510! Loving my L20b - sounds good! Congrats

Cant decide which I like better- Just some quick edits from a shot from AutoX this weekend or

Are you asking about front or rear wheel bearings??? Fronts have been covered so far- and are quite easy to do- although be weary you may need to retorque those axle nuts after some driving... i needed to... will probably just replace them in the next week or so since I could probably do both sides in 30 minutes- Rears... not so easy- but very doable even with basic hand tools, just did the rear passenger on my 71 4dr - if you have questions on the rears let me know- I can dig up threads from here and the connecticut z forum and i think a virginia z forum-

it was close... almost didnt make it- but had a blast. next race is the 14th

Just did stainless lines on my 510 - a good flare nut wrench goes a long way as well as a good overnight soak in pb blaster. hit em a couple times and then let them sit over night, hit em again and try loosening them. Be careful not to twist the hard line itself- had one of my rears start twisting but I noticed it and was able to save it... then snapped one of the hard lines coming out of the MC because it twisted- those are short though. Be patient and take your time... autozone rents tools as well there bender worked well- but I was thankfull I didnt need their flaring tool... it was ugly and well used- PB blaster will be your best friend - also you may need a wrench on the soft line side I believe they are 17 or 19mm

Ill do some digging to find out- seems fine with out it- with the stock push rod threaded as short as possible it leaves only a hair of play so its held in there pretty well - but would prefer to have a fail safe

Alright heres an update and one I think you will all enjoy- Had a few stressful nights last week... Got all my parts in to finish the rear wheel bearing on Wednesday - had to source the halfshaft flange bolts directly from Nissan and had to rig up a bearing press with some washers and a carriage bolt from home depot... alot harder then you would expect to find big enough washers... but got the rear wheel bearing in and torqued down- finished up about 1:15 am on Wednesday night with that- Thursday replaced the pads and shoes with the Porterfield R4-S - which so far I am pretty happy with- and bled the brakes- went out around 12:30 thursday night to bed the pads in and the pedal was a bit mushy, and then firm and then mushy and just all over the board so something wasnt right- called it a night at about 1:30 - Friday left work early came home and bled the Brake MC- got some air out pedal felt a little better- had a buddy come over and rebleed the brakes from the calipers- no air all clear- pedal was still soft though - bleed the rear half of the MC no air no problem - bled the front half... got air... then clear... then air... then clear... then air... obviously had a bad MC And as it usually goes I was supposed to go to AutoX rookie school the next morning. A quick check on Autozone, Napa and the other local parts stores revealed no MC for the 510- a few minutes on here and I found out a 240/260/280z MC will bolt right in, but becuase of the bigger bore will give a bit stiffer pedal feel. Lucky me- autozone had the 280z MC- ran down and got that. came home compared everything, it all looked good- reservoirs transferred over great this should be no problem... snapped one of the hardlines... Back to autozone to pick up 2 hardlines... got those got home.. bench bled the MC- Leaks like a sive... its now 9 at night and I have a bad MC- back on the autozone site- the other store has one- call and confirm- rip down there to get it. back home at 10 with the 2nd new MC. Bench bleed it, and it works great. Install it, bend the lines, tighten them up, check for leaks, bleed the brakes- they feel GREAT! nice stiff pedal- put everything else back together, get the wheels on her, drop her down and test drive at 1:15am- bed the pads in, everything is good. Pack the car for autoX the next day - lights out at 2:30am Up at 6:30 for Rookie school- get there early pass tech no problem and off the day goes- spent the morning running a slalom course and a couple ovals and the afternoon on a full course- really helped me learn how the care handles and where its limits were as well as get a better idea of how to navigate the sea of cones. Got home, checked her over again, retorqued my front axle nuts and all the wheels. Up early sunday to go race- Sunday was Awesome! ripped 9 runs total- 7 timed and 2 fun - first lap was a 66 -2nd a 64 - 3rd a 62- and 4,5,6,7 were all 61 and change. Really got to push the 510 and she ran like a champ and just begged for more- full blown 2nd gear romps around the course- maxing out 2nd coming through the back slalom. Hooked- will definitely be going back again for the next event. And now what you have all been waiting for- shots of the 510 ripping around - the first photo is actually from the end of the day - they let me drive all day saturday and most of sunday and pass tech both days with the chrome trim rings, but on my 6th run I was informed I would have to remove them before my next run- oh well, kinda like the look with out them - thinking of maybe getting some black chrome aero racing 15s instead of the panasport looking wheels

Auto X this weekend- She ripped like a champ! Check out my thread for the rest of them

Autocrossed her! pictures to come soon- and more racing tomorrow!

I searched forever and couldnt find an answer on whether or not to use the clip... long story short- you can't- but the 280z MC bolts right up, Ended up having to replace those short hardlines out of the master as well. First master I got from autozone leaked like a sive while i was bench bleading -went to another autozone and miraculously found another- this one was actually much nicer... same part though... much much stiffer pedal feel -although not a bad thing - but my car is set up as a race car and not a daily.

Cant find an answer.... Installing a 280z - NOT ZX - Brake MC on my 71 510- Stock the 510 pushrod is held in with a clip to the MC - doesnt seem like the washer will fit under the clip on the new master (280z) Can anyone confirm that the 510 pushrod will work and wether or not to clip it in - Thanks

Ordered a new washer and new half shaft flange bolts direct through nissan today- bearings and the bolts and washer in on Wed- axle lock nuts in tomorrow. Wed night hopefully putting it all back together- The question now is which order/how to press the bearings in- i.e. one in the trailing arm and one on the stub axle? both in the trailing arm? trying to leave the trailing arm on the car if possible- anyone have thoughts? seems like the one in the arm and one on the stub axle is the way to go

Stumbled upon this just now in my search for half shaft flange bolt part numbers- It has probably been posted before but is very helpful and could even use a stickey- Just ordered parts through Nissan using these number so they seem to be correct. http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun510/Datsun510Index/tabid/433/Default.aspx Cheers

DO Want!!! but no money.... heres a bump for you and some clean wheels

Thought I posted this but guess I never did- from one of my sunday drives a couple weeks ago What do you think about putting some Datsun Racing Stripes down the side of the fender/door - just rattle can black with datsun or ratsun interupting them

Alright- Picture Update- Nothing particularly special but yea posting them anyway Had to cut 3 of the 4 bolts off that connect the half shaft flanges- they just werent budging Kinda tough to see - but the peened nut trimmed down- You do not need to removed the whole edge of the nut! - just trim it to weaken it- left all the threads on the stub axle complete and unharmed Looks like the rear driver had already been done... and they trimmed into the stub axle :( decided not to replace that side Leverage- Nut came off easy as pie Stub axle removed- Old bearing still in the trailing arm Because Race Car - Passenger can sit on a milk crate to save weight Just kidding- Passenger now has a 5-point harness Divers seat out 5 Points for both passenger and driver

Thanks- I want to do 15s down the road and figuring out wheel stuff seems so confusing on 510s

Whats your wheel set up? Just what I am looking for on my red 510 - your car looks to be at a similar height As for what I have done to mine recently- Been working on it everynight for a week - got stainless steel brake lines in - repacked and torqued my front wheel bearings - tore apart the rear passenger hub to replace those bearings- thats on hold right now while I wait for parts- got a 5 point harness in for the passenger and going to go put the drivers in now.

Rear wheel bearing project on hold.... waiting for sealed bearings from NAPA - they originally gave me two unsealed bearings and the outer is supposed to be sealed- said screw it and ordered 4 sealed bearings so I will have seals on both bearings- and have the bearings/seal/nut if I ever need to redo it or do the other side- Got the 5 point harness in for the passenger- going to go do the driver harness right now- Once I get the wheel bearing done - I will install the new pads and shoes and bleed the whole system with super blue and it should be done- Hang tight for pictures... going to be a big post sooner or later

I meant axle not spindle- My plan was to use the thread all method to get the bearing into the trailing arm- getting the bearing onto the axle stub is the tougher one- but we have a press at work so I think i am going to try and get one of our shop guys to do that for me- also managed to lose the fricken washer that goes just inside the axle nut... do ooh... its a big fricken washer but no where to be found....

If interested in following my rear wheel bearing research/ install check this thread http://community.ratsun.net/topic/53166-rear-wheel-bearing-issue-71-510-4dr/?do=findComment&comment=873408

Thanks Hang_510 I just ordered my bearings from NAPA - $18 a piece and they can get me them same day- ordered before 11 and I will have them by 2:30 - 280 axle nuts will work on a 510 so I ordered a pair of those and a pair of the grease seals through Nissan- although decided i am only going to replace the passenger side bearing since the driver side is fine and once I got the half shaft off I could see it had been changed before... somebody ground down on the stub axle Also went over to Sears to pick up a 27mm socket... Ended up with a set of impact sockets... of course I dont have a gun yet... so breaker bar it will be- need to go to home depot and get two big ass steel bars- one for the breaker bar and one to brace the studs/hub- going to thread the lugs back on there to protect the threads Hoping not to need a hammer - going to try the freeze/heat method to get the bearing on the spindle and rent a bearing press to get the other one in the trailing arm- if I run into trouble with the spindle bearing there is a press at work that I can probably get one of the guys to do it for me