spudly13

I offered him 125, see what he says.

What should i offer on this bumper... He wont give me a price, wants me to make an offer, its on a car hes trying to sell so i guess i can sorta understand. opinions appreciated becasue i have no idea whats "fair"

if it were sitting in the garage painted id say no problem having it together in 2 months, I think I have MOST everything to put it together, and enough money saved up to finish it I've just been waiting around for paint.

the rear doors open and close no problems edit: and actually, it would be pretty hard to make it so the door jams interfere with the door itself....

the real question is when are these metal bumpers I keep hearing about going to be up for sale... Haha

Got some small stuff done. including but not limited to, fitting the rear tailights, trunk seal lip work, trunk latch work, fitting the front valance, fitting the airdam to the valance, stripping apart the ka, got it painted, eliminated a bunch of stuff, gotta pull the head and do valve seals, then reassemble with new gaskets and seals.

Dif spacers, top or bottom?

if anyone has any leads on a front bumper, even one in rough shape, please let me know, im having a hell of a time finding one...

Thanks man, i cant wait to get it on the road. Alec (the painter) stopped by today, hes been having issues with his booth and hes got one car ahead of mine thats gotta get done first. He said at the least 2 weeks, at the most 4 weeks.... and probally 4 days of work left on my car. Thats crampin my deadline quite a bit so i guess ill have to stop procrastinating on getting it back from paint and start getting other parts of the car movin....especially if i wanna make canby..

I had actually considerd it when all the panels were still "patina'd" But decided with all the work thats going into it i just gotta finish it!

Lol i know, i took them out so i could see where it would sit aired out becasue just the weight of the car wont collapse the bag all the way. That, and i had to put spacers in there to lift it up so we can roll it around. it high centered on the concrete when i tried to roll it out the first time.

Excited to be off the rotisserie, off any sort of rolling cart, and finally sitting on all rebuilt suspension. I couldnt help myself i had to post a picture

i got home early today and it was killing me not knowing where the front would actually sit with weight and what not.... so......

Good call i hadnt thought about that. ill probally just leave them until i can afford something legit. Thats how they were mounted in the old car, but for ease of running airlines this time im going to fill from the top, the bag sits right in the spring pocket at the top pretty much center, so im gunna drill a couple holes for mounting, and make a notch in between those to get a 90 degree air fiting under my seat if that makes any sense at all. Edit, i didnt really get why you asked until i looked at the picture, the only reason im using that plate with all the holes on the bottom is beacuse i already had them and it beat cutting out new plates just so they didnt have holes.

Im also quite pissed my front wheels are single bolt pattern and the rears are multi. They were supposed to be both single, but after it took 6 months to even get the stupid things at the time i decided against trying to send em back. So... im conisdering having someone whose really good at tig fill them and weld them up... its sort of a big risk tho.. im not sure yet.

that isnt all the way down in the back, the jack got stuck. but becasue of my issues in the front the rear wont go as low as it "can" anyways because i have to make it match the front aired out do it looks level and even

Currently ill be really close to settting fender lip on wheel lip. However if your running the right combo of parts theres no reason you couldnt tuck 15s and set the crossmember on the ground. My problem is with 8s in the front it pretty much fills the whole wheel well i dont have any more room to section the struts again and drop the bag down farther.

double bellows in the back, aerosport in the front. Im never touching cans again in my life, those things suck. Its pretty simple really, stock struts shortened a few inches for mr2 inserts. Then i made plates that slide over the tube and have mounting holes for the bag (you can buy the plates but fuck that), as well as a slot for the air inlet. Those get welded on 3 and 3/4 inches from the top (bag fully collapsed is 4 inches), then i slid the bag on bolted it down and made another plate for the top. the bolt holes are the same, only differece is the center hole is smaller becasue its not going over the hole strut. the stock bearing goes on next and that rides up against my camber plates. Id love to be able to go lower, shorter struts and drop that plate down..... but as you can you see it would hit the wheel and tire. cant push the wheel out farther cause its already flush... i guess thats just a drawback to 8s in the front.

Yeah it's gunna be bagged, I totally forgot you were lookin for a pic, when I get home I'll drop one of the top hats and get you a couple pics of the strut

No ebrake cables, but the line would come off the bottom making it potentially close to the ground, hadnt considered that. I got a whole 200sx rear axle from frank when he had his big garage sale thing over the summer. The rotors fit, and the bracket will work after i enlarged the center hole about 3/16th all the way around and drill out new bolting holes at whatever clocking position i end up at. the problem is the caliper, it seems awfully big I was mainly wondering about functionality of the caliper, seems to me its just a hydraulic piston so it shouldnt care how its clocked right? Ill know more tomorrow or thurs when the subframe is finished and in, mounting it on the bottom would be worst case, just seeing what you guys thought.

Im not 100% sure yet, but as im playing with these calipers and mounting brackets, it is starting to appear that the only way the caliper will clear the car, is if its on the bottom of the control arm.... if i go to far one way on the top, itll be in the way of the shock, to far the other way and it will hit my bags/ car.... I wont be 100% sure until i get the subframe bolted in tomorrow and can mock it all up in the car, but does anyone see any immediate problems with running a caliper upside down?

Got started on the rear. My wheel studs and rear control arm bushings showed up. Just waiting on my rear bearings, seals, and axle nuts. Started on the rear disc stuff

First attempt: Air chisel, hammer, punches, and a lot of heat. No good Second attempt: Die grinder and some heat. Worked like a champ. Some POR 15 New camber plates, bump steer spacers, bushings, and balljoints. Waiting for my extended wheel studs and rotors to get back from surfacing to finish it up. Probally gunna start on the rear tomorrow, have a lot more work to do back there, have to fab the rear discs, change up the spring pockets to work better with my bags, and of course all new bushings and u joints and bearings.

I used one full kit, I'd say MAX weight MEYBE ten pounds, and that's just guessing off what the box weighed with everything in it,

Haha yeah that makes sense, wasnt trying to be defensive ort anything, I'm just the type that will use whatever's sitting in front of me!