Seeker > 620 KC

I have a 1980 combination headlight and washer switch. The wipers and headlights work great. B...ut to get tail lights I have to turn the switch on for 5 minutes first to warm up, then I have to repeatedly turn the running lights on and off. Then I'm still not certain they stay on when I'm driving. I got it all apart and have cleaned all the blue surrounding plastic parts ok. Now I need to disassemble the combination switch and reassemble it with new grease. I tried full strength Simple Green to get the old sticky grease off without success. Then I tried denatured alcohol on the horn metal ring and it worked nicely, but it took some of the color out of the blue plastic around the edges. Luckily it is out of view. 1. I've read up on denatured alcohol and it looks to be safe on most plastics. But I'm spooked to use it on the 35 year old white plastic parts on the combination switch for fear it will dry it out the plastic, then crack, fail, and fall apart. Anybody have any experience R&R'ing a combo light/wiper switch? What did you use to clean it? 2. What type grease did you use to reassemble it with? The info on dialectric grease is overwhelming. Some is for actual switch contacts, other is just for connectors. My head is swimming.

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Wrap some zip ties around the cap and reservoir. If you use too much pressure I've read it will pop the cap off. Mine came with a little chain and some J-bolts to tighten it down. I was going to try it out last Friday night. But when i came home at lunch for a quick sandwich...I found my house had been burglarized. Broke a kitchen window and tossed/trashed the place just like in the movies.

MikeRL411, The power bleeder was an impulse purchase solution vs. bleeding brakes with wife. At the time I thought big tank with large volume of fluid was easier than vacuum pulling fluid and refilling the res more often. Now I see the power bleeder has its downsides with operation as well as more cost. In hindsite I think the vac solution would be more effective and less problematic. As for Daniel C and MKlotz's discussion I think I may have lucked out. Current application is for my 80' 200 SX which has disks all around. The line and bleeders are not on the same Y. But I could have that problem on my 79 620 rear drums. Will have to look and see.

ThisisMatt I have the Motive 0126 kit description is : For use on small round reservoirs where the 1101 is too large. Typically for but not limited to use on Datsuns such as the 240Z and 510s. Mid 1980's Corvettes with two round M/C reservoirs. Also fits some small clutch reservoirs. Comes with tank, pump, and 1126 adapter. It has a dinky chain device to wrap around the master so the lid can't pop off. If the system is problematic maybe I can use it to get the majority of air out of the lines and finsih when a friend can help me. My wife is who she is and I dont' fault her for it. She'll space out putting the cap back on the reservoir, or will lift her foot off the pedal in mid stroke. She just doesn't give credance to the importance of following direction on mechanical stuff.

I bought one of those Motive pressure bleeders because my wife and I don't communicate on mechanics well enough to master manual brake bleeding together. I was hoping to bleed the system by myself with the Motive pressure bleeder. It says to consult the vehicle service manual for the correct pressure to bleed the brakes. I couldn't find a thing in the manual, as I don't think they had pressure bleeders in 1979 -80. Has anyone used a pressure bleeder that pressurizes the master cylinder and pushes fluid down to the bleeders? How much pressure did you apply successfully?

Now I'm a bit befuddled. I cleaned up the trans without all the switches and put it back together to sell off at the Eagle Rock Swap meet tomorrow. I noticed it had a white speedo gear, just like my 4 speed out of my 79 620 KC. Just for grins I pulled the speedo out of the 1980 720KC trans I just landed with all the switches on it...It has a blue speedo gear. And I noticed it only has one mounting tab instead of two behind the rear mount. I'm wondering if that trans has been switched out before with a mid range or close range Z trans? I marked the input, gave it the 20 turns, and my wife said she counted 5.5 turns, and we did it twice to be sure. Isn't that the correct ratio to match the 4:11's in the 79 620 KC? Now I'm spooked about selling the trans without all the switches. Lol

Hey DZM, My curiosity about the 79 620 KC trans got the best of me, and for once I think it may pay off. I found & a very battered & used up 1980 720KC. Initially, trans looked original and it did have 4 switches (although 2 were disconnected) but later found upper case did have a yellow X hand written on top of the bell housing like it may have come from a wrecking yard. Pulled trans and engine bay AC parts, cut off the drive shaft input shaft & sold the remains to Ecology auto wreckers. Spent an afternoon cleaning the case. Was happy there is very little end play on either shaft and only slight fuzz on the drain plug. My only concern was the gear oil was an odd brown color like someone had just put a little creamer in a cup of coffee to turn if from black to a very dark brown. It didn't have any of the usual greenish blue or black color to it. Right before dark I got my wife to come count output rotations.and confirmed 20 input turns = 5.5+ a smidge output rotations. Not even close to 6 output turns. I was elated and glad I had scored the correct CA trans replacement for my 620 KC with either three or four switches. I typically use a down-loaded Nissan factory service manual (NFSM) for ease of searching and not to contribute to my physical book spine falling apart any sooner than need be. Sitting with my wife in front of the tube I reached for my original old fashioned book intending to trace the wiring diagram. Much to my surprise I flipped it open directly to page EC 26. It confirms what you say: when the trans is in either 4th or 5th gear the top switch is ON and the Vacuum Switching Valve is ON thus providing full timing advance to the distributor. Other than 4th or 5th gear, the distributor is only partially advanced, thus retarding the timing in lower gears. That would be the exact opposite of what my state certified smog technician told me! lol So I accepted the fact this trans has four switches instead of three, and EC system dogs down the timing on both 4th and 5th gears. This A.M. before work I rushed out and got out my trusty ohm meter and tested the switches using the shifter. Reverse worked Top switch (4th gear) worked OD (5th) worked Neutral was dead, will have to see if I can dean it as I've done with others. Went to my downloaded Nissan Factory Service Manual to pull out the electronic page to send to you…and it wasn’t on that page! After a little head-scratching, I found the online service manual I downloaded was actually for a 78, not a 79. Didn’t have the time to look further thru the 78 to see the same info is there or not. Will let you know later. See photocopied page from my 79 Nissan Factory Service Manual about both Top and OD switches on same trans.

I've heard of a backseat driver... but a back seat scrapper??? Yes, was mine. It was on Ratsun for eight days without a single reply. What makes you think it wasn't on CL??? It did have it on Craigslist for 2 days. I was overloaded with emails from junk car buyers, Hispanic gardeners I couldn't speak with who wanted me to find an interpreter, and flakes wanting to judge me for scrapping it, and wanted to argue to sell it to them whole. This all before I could even pull the parts I wanted from it. Got tired of arguing with all the Craigslist callers. Pulled the ad, pulled my parts and had to get it out of my driveway before my neighbors complained to my landlord. It had been there 8 days and that was already too long. It had been Craigslist with previous seller for nearly 2 months. How did you miss it both times? Ecology was dependable, agreed on a price, on time, and on my schedule instead of waiting for someone to hopefully show up and then want to re barter the price after already agreeing to one by phone. Sorry. If you need something from it, I told you where it is or will be soon.

1980 720 KC (not an ST model) went to Oceanside California Ecology Auto Wreckers today. Positives: running L20B motor (have a video from Saturday.) with distributor (ran out of time to snag it) good door panels and headliner, working rear diff and axles. If Ecology doesn't polk a hole in it as some yards to...it has a brand new gas tank (its huge,) Window cranks work and side windows may be ok. It has a goofy plastic construction worker tool box in the bed. Negatives: Trans & shifter are gone. No AC parts inside or out. All sheet metal, every plastic piece including dash is either super wrinkly, sun bleached, or mega-mega-broken. Grill and rear bumper are gone. Next to nothing works on the vehicle There isn't an intact light bucket or lens that works, and all the trim pieces are either missing or thrashed. Cab floors are rusted through, windshield has small cracks boards, drive line is there but missing the front yolk.

My 6/80 door tag says KPS110-XXXXXX. So that fits with the K for coupe/hatchback, P for uprate? upright? No sure what that means. As discussed above, there was no L, F,A,E or FEU.

The CA guy who smogs my two Dats at a local smog shop has a couple old rides. He told me based on his smog training it was his understanding the top switch or overdrive switch (third switch) retards the timing at high speed, thus reducing high speed emissions. I'm not sure what the vacuum cut solenoid does? Wondering if it might reduce the overall engine vacuum, or hopefully reduce just the emission system vacuum enough for the dizzy vacuum advance not to work as much or partially work (if it does anything at high speed?) thus not advancing the timing as much/at all at high speed? Or maybe the vac cut switch turns vacuum on to actually pull a dizzy diaphragm plate back a couple degrees? I haven't had a Dat distributor apart in a couple decades. Did they have the old mechanical advance weights? Will have to take one apart next time I'm in the yards to refresh my memory. Then..as DZM states...there still lies the forth switch mystery!

I was thinking like Tendril, that maybe it was a dash indicator light for overdrive. But you'd think if that was the case they could have branched a wire off of the existing 5th gear switch (it it was a hot wire) and saved the cost. Perhaps the 5th gear switch might be a ground wire vs. a hot wire... in order to activage the device that retards the timing when in 5th gear??? Wish I had the trans and the wiring harness in order to check it out. Thought maybe someone currently with a 78 might know?

I've seen two of these now... a 1978 620 long tail trans, 31.5" long. It came out of a 1978 620 KC. But it has 4 electric switches on the side???? What is the forth switch for? :confused: On my CA 79 620 4 speed it has three switches. See Pic below: The rear switch by the shifter is a Neutral switch. The one to the front is for Reverse The third switch detects when I am in 4th gear and retards the timing 2degrees for smog emissions. It is called a Top switch on the four speeds, and it is called an Overdrive switch on the 5 speeds. What the hell is the forth switch for on the forward part of the tail housing??? Haven't found it so far in a manual. Anybody have one who could tell me?

Is anybody going to the Puyallup PnP who could check/pull me some really little stuff of that 80's 200sx?

I appreciate the mfg update. I mis-spoke on the EPA requiring the emissions equip. I meant the mfgrs had to do so in order to comply with EPA requirements. My dealership experience ended just about the same time my current 79 620 and 80 200sx were rolling off the assembly line. It only took me another 35 years to acuire one of each for me. ;)

Chasing a cat out of your yard will cure just about anything. Way-to-go you coffee-loving super-dog for tough-loving it out! You showed the doctor who pronounced you as "failing" (without any test results,) that it was actually the doctor who was failing you! lmfao That's why the medical profession calls it "practicing medicine." They are still performing process-of-elimination treatments and "let's try this" (guessing) when they don't know what is actually happening in a patient. With all the "science" doctors have at their disposal...they still don't know as much about the inner workings of human beings and K-9's insides, as we do about the insides of our Datsuns. Glad you still have your best buddy Mike.

What's not surprising? That the 200sx 2.0 beat it? I would have guessed the Cobra would have smoked the SX by more than a fraction of a second too, but back then manufacturers were required by EPA to load 80's cars with tons of emission equip, and they still had to lower compression and retard the timing at every turn they could to meet the requirements.

I sure got a kick out of the article, especially the graph of the 200sx beating the Dodge challenger in the standing 1/4 mile by a fraction of a second! True? who knows. Entertaining?.. for sure! lol . Anybody still have the battery fluid monitoring sending unit(s) from their 1979-81 200sx they could take a picture of and post? From the manual it looks like it might require a pair? I've got a 1980 and the guages and system check all seem to work, but I don't have the sending units. My Nissan Parts girl says: Part number is 24412-U7610 and it fits S110 01/79-06/81 and S130 (280zx) 07/78-08/81. The bad part is she says the part is "disco" by Nissan and I haven't a clue what it looks like. :confused: Worse yet...every So Cal. junkyard 280 ZX I've looked in already had the battery cables and harnesses cut, rather than unbolted. ( I miss my old sheetmetal freak who moved away. Wish I could find another in north county San Diego.) Also looking for a good working turn signal switch. (Couldn't resist, Sorry DZM.)

I've had 2 people doctors from two different health providers who disinterestedly treated me like a mere number in their overloaded HMO caseload. They both diagnosed me with a serious illness needing surgery to remove part of an organ. Both refered me to surgeons who eagerly wanted to filet me like a fish from rib cage to family jewels in surgery to remove part of one of my organs that isn't surgery friendly. It is kinda like cutting a sponge in half and having to carterize every little cut fragment of sponge fiber due to the air pockets in the sponge. "Side effects of the surgeon's surgery (not the diseased organ:) a very high probability of be a diabetic for life and have to be on insulin, high probability of having to take digestive enzymes every single time I eat for the rest of my life, and could easily have debilitating painful infection from the surgery for the rest of my life that could prevented me from working a simple desk job, and could be on disability for life. I was scared and called on an old hippie friend who was an MD and treated me long before I entered the HMO world. He conferred with his anastesiologist brother and both started googling my disease. Turns out there is a surgeon close by in San Diego who has been doing these same surgeries successuly for 6-7 years using the new scope technology with very little side effects. I got a consultation, he got my insurance to cover it, and I am alive and well today with zero side effects today due to his new methods and skills. Afterward I asked him why the previous two doctors and medical insurance providers didn't even tell me this new surgery and method is available. His response...they don't know how to do it, and they don't want to sub-it-out and pay my surgeon to do it. To them it is all about lookiing like they know the best thing for you, and money. They would rather butcher me, and make me take life altering risks than simply telling me ne technology exists at another hospital/provider, and uglier yet they don't want to pay for it. My biggest life lesson learned...be stubborn, don't make any snap decisions unless you're in the emergency room, don't take anything a doctor tells you at face value, ask every friggin question you can, don't be afraid to be blunt, and most of all if it doesn't feel right... RUN the other way to ask someone else for a 2nd, 3rd, or 4th opinion. I've been on this planet 57 years, have no degree, and have had lots of doctors. I just dumped my most convenient doctor at a clinic one mile away cuz their whole office is disfunctional, and the doctor is uninterested. Doctors are like mechanics...many of them hate their jobs, do a mediocre job, and that is all it is to them...a job and an income. The really good doctors who are passionate about their proffession are really hard to find. Vets, are the same way, and I feel many of them discount it further cuz they're not working on people, just animals. Fuck Em! I just hate these people. Network within your neighborhood, ask every one in your daily life you run across for referrals including the delivery guy, the mail person, office co-workers, management, people your same age, people who have dogs like yours, whatever. Think outside the box for who you can ask. I'm betting your four footed fury best friend simply had some kind of fever/infection, was chafed from licking himself, or backed up with gas and couldn't stand up without being in pain. The local dirtball vet didn't know what was wrong and was trying to take financial advantage of you & your wife at a time of your peaked vulnerablitly. This is what cults & & many morticians do. The lowest of low humans on the planet. By asking for referrals I just this week found another doctor who is 6 miles further away, but the office staff is genuinely interested in me as is the doctor, and she spent the entire half hour addressing all 9 topics on my list, ordered tests, and gave me a solid game plan for improving my health. I came out of their feeling like someone "had my back," not like someone taking my utility payment. By asking for referrals I just found another doctor who is 6 miles further away, but the office staff is genuinely interested in me as was the doctor, and she spent the entire half hour addressing all 9 topics on my list, ordered tests, and gave me a solid game plan for improving my health. I came out of their feeling like someone "had my back," not like someone taking my utility payment. Glad life is good again for you and your coffee loving dog. Really sorry for the long rant, I just hate "professionals" in the human and animal health care system, who aren't professional, are in it soley for the money, and who aren't passionate in truly helping humans or animals.

Good dog. Good owner. Glad to hear there's progress. (<see thread title> Have you told your bride she's not your best friend? ;) ) (Ratwagon you are an awesome K-9 resource. You're my new hero!)

"Is there a doctor in the house?" Anybody with a veterinarian in their family? For once the DZ guru needs our resources!

Rowdy- pincher type highbred markings, mixed with white chest and fuzzy happy-camper lab face. Handsome! I've seen big barreled Labs develop tumors and balance issues late in life, but not suddenly. I'm guessing the internal or nerve issue. Is the photo recent? Are his eyes clear and attentive? The sudden overall unsteadiness does seem more like a toxicity or nerve issue. My first family dog was half beagle half lab. He was marked like a beagle, but size was like a 3/4 sized lab, weighed 50 lbs or so.. at 17 he had trouble getting up and moving, quite shakey. Always wanted to go in/out. In warm weather he like to lay outside where the earth was warm. One Thanksgiving we thought he wasn't going to make it thru the meal. We stopped the holiday, took him to the emergency vet since my dad was picking up the bill on a holiday. But as you stated mine developed it slowly, not suddenly like yours. He had hip and joint pain arthritis and such, but they shot him full of steroids and he lasted thru the year to keep my Dad company thru my Mom's passing on. www.facebook.com/pages/Free-Vet-Help-Online/208145682538006 We're pet owners and lovers, but better gear head diagnosticians... maybe try the fuzzy-ear heads blog above?

I agree with Mr Big...age? What breed(s)? Labs and Shephards develop joint diseases and severe arthritis in old age. Sounds like he is a male...does he have any swollen parts on his abdomen like he swallowed something, or maybe a tumor has grown under a heavy coat? What is his size/approx. weight? I can tell you are seriously concerned old friend, it's not like you to leave out the details ;)