Tristin

What stops all your incoming air from going out your trap door? Ive tried to come up with simple solutions to this as well since I live in a very rainy area. Ive come to the conclusion that Im just going to add a fine screen to the funnel on the bay side to minimize droplets from entering. Something like a grease screen when youre cooking. PS I love the doodle. Ill keep it forever :wub:

The only time Ive heard water being a good thing in engines is in water injection systems which are used for cooling cylinders, which retard detonation issues. No, I dont think youre understanding right. Even at a molecular level, you cant compress a liquid. You can pressurize it... Theres no way that an engine produces enough compressional force to reduce the volume of a liquid. Cylinder pressure is ~150psi... thats not even remotely close to the level at which you would need to compress a liquid. Can you provide any articles supporting your thoughts? Id love to read them.

Liquids cant be compressed (at basic levels)... thats the entire governing principle of hydraulics. And just to talk this out, youre saying the water actually makes fire better? Id like to see these articles youre reading. Granted, this is my first carb'd vehicle, but none of that sounds remotely close to accurate.

It varies by the type of ECU programming. Normal MAF systems will work exactly the same in regards to cold air vs. hot air. MAFs are built to ignore temperature and pressure when calculating air volume so it gives the same fuel for both hot and cold air. By cramming in the same amount of fuel with colder air, the MAF engine will produce higher numbers. If running speed density, then the ECU will adjust fuel for changes in temperature so on a base tune, almost anything below heat soak temperatures will be the same with any change in temperature. Having anything but a smooth pipe will induce quite the air disturbance in intake path. Thats the exact reason that people ditch the stock airboxes for ram or CAI (not including the ricer fanboys doing it purely based off racecar status). There would have to be some tests to see if the disturbances would negate the positive effects of the colder air. I have no idea. I think adding a water trap is just way too much work for what its worth though personally.

Yep. There only so many door stop designs you can do before you get wilder and wilder. Other than the ridiculous vortex generator, I like it. I think its about time they stepped up their design... theve been stagnant for some time now.

I would contact the people running the show...

PMd.

Its sitting in the garage. I was up for sale for a split second when another local member needed it, but that didnt happen so its still in the garage. It might possibly go into another project that could be happening... Are you in dire need of a tired L16?

They had some space a few days ago. Post on the FB page and ask or send them a PM. The guys are pretty nice.

Or install two funnels for twice the powah!

I like the "advertised HP gains" bullet. :rofl: You can advertise anything you want... doesnt mean the facts will back it up.

http://community.ratsun.net/topic/39880-i-like-colt-galants/

Haha caught me in the middle of an edit for readability. :sleep:

There are a couple of setups out there. One is a "ram air" style and the other is "cold air" setup. Mostly everyone calls any cone filter and cheap China pipe a CAI. The ram air intake is basically a small length of tube with a cone filter that eliminates the stock airbox. Various models of various manufactures for cars have more restrictive stock airboxes so there can be some small gains in running a ram air. The cons to a ram air is that by eliminating the stock box, youre now sucking up hot engine bay air. You can gain some power due to a less restrictive path for airflow, but the heat can screw you. The cold air setup is usually a longer tube that sticks the filter directly in the path of fresh, cold air. It can be to a headlight funnel, naca duct, or a lower section of fender well. The colder air is more dense which packs more oxygen into the chamber producing higher HP numbers. Numbers will fluctuate with outside temps and with whatever setup youre running. The problem with those, is your filter is usually exposed to the elements which can result in sucking up water during heavy rains or if youre driving though puddles.

Just time. It should be done and running here in a few days... until then Im doing some other needed projects.

Yeah its a mediocre size with a blah + offset and caps that need rechroming. But they dont come up for sale too often and its nice that you actually have caps. They are a vintage wheel and they are Works. So youre about that price.

Yeah its about ready to go in. Im debating whether or not to paint it. I have the paint already... I may do that tomorrow when I back near the car. Its sitting at the ready to go in.

Maybe something like $700-$800. Maybe a little less since the caps have to be fixed... I personally couldnt run with black caps.

Any rash, bends, or chips in the lips? Any corrosion? Powdercoat or paint? I dont think Ive seen black caps... they may have been recoated for peeling chrome caps. That would help with a price on what I would pay.

Are they the chrome or gold caps? Golds are my personal favorites. IIIs are one of the few none SSRs Id run.

Nice. Do they come with the centercaps?

JAF is just the Japanese Automobile Federation and not the race series that you linked to... also the eBay link you posted is a cheap reproduction of actual badges. Here is some info for you: http://japanesenostalgiccar.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=22847

Pics? Are they the flat or concave versions? There have been about 4 variations on the IIIs.

Made an offer on these off eBay. Didnt want to pay what he was asking and I think since hes had them up multiple times he was finally happy to move them... Tacoma is the closest Datsun dealer to me so Ill be running these for awhile: