captaingamez

Introduction: I am starting this thread to go over MODERN wiring practices in an performance automobile, Post my findings, Ideas, Get feedback and opinions from the initiated, and suggest new ideas for wiring cars in the post 2000 Era If you prefer old wiring, justify the use of old wiring at 50 years old, or like "wire based fusible link" systems "Because they work" This is absolutely the wrong thread for you. We eliminate ALL of that here regardless of "If it works" If you wish to rewire your Datsun with MODERN components, 280 series relays, PDMs, Breakers, JCase Fuse links and MAXI fuses then you are in the right place. First I am going to start off with the suggestion that old junk in a Datsun/Nissan from the 60s through early 90s isnt good anymore if you like your car to work for the rest of your life and dont want to work on it or diagnose electrical things. The copper itself is fine, the issue is the insulation, the wrapping, the old style crimps that have been bypassed by new stuff, non waterproof connectors, old wire tubing that isnt used now for good reason. Basically almost every aspect of vehicle wiring was dramatically improved upon in the 90s and early 2000s. We now use fully sealed harnesses, Fuse Links that are enclosed in a box and easily swapable and available everywhere, and PDMs for smaller relays as well as Solid State switching. Everyone has their own way of doing this, This is mine based on years of doing it for clients and my own cars and motorcycles, and working with people MORE professional than myself.. Suggestions are welcomed, but dont be offended if I have info on why not to do something a certain way that is suggested. I can tell you the number one argument here will be crimp vs solder. We do not solder pins and splices. Period. I am going to update this as I do some fairly in depth wiring procedures over the next 6 months Example of components I currently am using : GEP 96 Pin PDM for 2890 series components GEP JCase Fusible link housing. Easy to find on the inteweb

These are from when I got the car running and tuned with the turbo engine.. It was still running an Ebay BOV and intercooler at this point, I ran it like this for about a year befor4e upgrading the Intercooler. the BOV left quick because they are junk. First and last time for ebay BOV lol. its been running a TiAL QR since shortly after this.

I believe the easiest pics I have to upload as far as progression goes are these. This image resizing is extremely irritating Gussetted front tension rod buckets, old engine removed, new engine installed with manifolds...this was 2017

So in efforts to update my build thread, Should I remove all the photobucket links and replace them with uploaded images? The 4MB thing is annoying, it requires you to have 2 copies of every picture on an Android. but whatever if it woks.

I heard they still build Datsuns in this group.....

Im not sure what happened to the posts but I know this was updated since 2018. Oh well a lot has happened since then . I have been off the forums for a while. I believe I will start updating this again. Current status of the car is its been sitting for the last year just getting upgrades. It has mostly been on the road since then with two different engine builds, both the same block but it ran 395tq and 367hp onthe dyno with the stock L28ET i was installing in the last few pages.

The Drilling of the forward dipstick hole boss will be ignored. We will now locate the dipstick on the oil pan itself which we will expand capacity of simultaneously

To address the oil pan.... Skylines, Glorias, and Maximas are all front sumped oil pans, meaning that the majority of foreign L engines are going to be front sumped and very dificult to use in a Z car. However the front sump going into a 910, R30, KPGC10 or 110, or Gloria is almost just as dificult. This was the most dificult part of the swap into a Maxima, or any other front engined car I would imagine. This is a very much Machinist task. If you arent confident you can do this, dont even try. But I will willingly rent anyone the Jig for $40 shipped. I am a Machinist. This is what I do every day and all day, nothing was out of the ordinary for this task and I still was not excited to do it. Then afterwards you must tap the holes carefully. This cast should leave an absolutely beautiful thread if yo completed the job correctly.

Tial F38 set at 8.5 PSI (will be changed to 14.5 PSI before the dyno and then boost control) The turbo is a rebuilt T3/T4 hybrid, AGP .82 back housing. I believe its a 60/68 but Im not entirely certain to be honest. This is a rebuilt NPR turbo with different housings. I dont have a picture of it assembled after ceremic coating. But this is the housing with the EGT bung welded in. I am running a mass EGT location so I can monitor gas temps. I am using an HKS EGT gauge.

The Nissan L28ET turbo manifold is a piece of crap. Im going to put that out in the open right away. I sold it, and dont plan on ever owning one ever again for any reason other than a paperweight. At 38 years old, and getting older, this cast iron is not holding up, its not holding power, it has no resilience, and worst of all, its not doing what we as engine builders in 2018, need our engines to do. I decided to build a new manifold. I had two requirements 1: Semi equal length design (all runners within 1-2 inches length with design considerations) 2: external wastegate 3(option): original Hitachi AC pump fitment. I began by getting L6 flanges from a friend who had them. I used a combination of ASTm Weld Els and ASTM bends. All Schedule 40 mild. This was intentional because I plan on ceramic coating the manifold. I am not going to make 30 posts about my fabrication process. That would take a 5 page thread to explain how it was done and show all the pictures. I may do that soon, but not in this thread. The turbo sits in an ideal location for a lot of cars. I used a TiAl F38 wastegate. Extremely reliable for this hot location and running no water lines to my gate. Everything was hand cut, every part was built by myself at our shop.the collector goes in 3 different directions to make it fit in the area easily without intruding ont he steering shaft. I use a LInde UCC-305 TIG power supply for equipment with a WeldCraft 310 torch. The ports after porting And after she returned from ceremic coating.

JCCS 2017. Parking sort of sucked. Hopefully I can make it again this year

After I got the fog lights restored (which I will document in another thread) I installed a bar on them This picture is about 10-11 months ago, so this will be the last update of the car in it's previous form. A lot has happened since then. its not the same car anymore. I will update some today and continue until its current. Sorry for the delays but I simply didnt have the ability to sit down and fix this entire thread from the Photobucket issues, though it was on my agenda for things to do in 2018. Thankfully Photobucket pulled their heads out of their asses. Hell, I might even pay for thier service now.....haha.

Wow all images restored.

Oh Boy they fixed Photobucket..........Time for a very large update.....

At Nissan Jam I found these on Datsmo's table, they are the Nismo Auto Louver Fog Lamps. They are extremely rare and I have been wanting a set since I saw this video about 3 years ago. Honestly wasnt sure I would ever find them.