sliding_creep Posted January 20, 2009 Report Share Posted January 20, 2009 all righty, here's the scoop: quantity (1)one- 1974 610 coupe. new calipers, new master (dual) , old booster and what appears to be the original one-way in-line vacuum valve from manifold to booster. Now! system bleeds up fine. calipers operating smoothly and no binding. no air in the lines and no restrictions, master primed good and no leaks of any kind. and all works well and stops straight without any brake steer or even me mitts on the wheel (look mar no hands!), pedal travel is more than it used to be though. when sitting at a stop, no crawl or drop in pedal. buuut, applying more pressure goes to the floor where it causes the brake idiot light to come on. once again, push hard enough the pedal travels to the floor, but the car does not move nor does it make any odd noises or leaks. not to mention there is no air in the lines even after several severe road tests. :confused: could this be fault in the booster or vacuum valve? normally to my experience, bad booster/hard pedal, no vacuum/hard pedal. this ain't a mopar and i'm stumped.......thanks in advance for any insight! cheers Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted January 20, 2009 Report Share Posted January 20, 2009 Adjust the rear drums, again if you have to. If they aren't turned up all the way it will cause excess pedal travel because the shoes have to move too far to start rubbing against the drums. Also check the condition of the flex lines, two at front and one at the back. Have someone work the brakes and you watch for swelling. If shoes are adjusted and lines are good you are going to have to entertain the idea that there is still some air in the lines. A good test for the power brake booster, is to pump the pedal several times to bleed off all vacuum. Push down on pedal and hold steady. Start the motor, the pedal should drop slightly as the vacuum comes up. Your booster sounds fine. Quote Link to comment
athoose Posted January 20, 2009 Report Share Posted January 20, 2009 You could disconnect the booster. See what happens to the pedal. It could be wrong or defective parts. I recall getting a bad MC that acted like this. Bleed again, longest to shortest line. Old, contaminated fluid Quote Link to comment
sliding_creep Posted January 20, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 20, 2009 rears were adjusted up good'n'tight and the masters proper, i primed and bled the master before and after the install. i flushed the system before the replacement and then again after anomally occurred in the system, then i disassembled all of it and replaced everything. i will check the soft-lines in the morning and after some consideration i think the pushrod may need to be expanded and then tried again. this should reduce the travel before the binders start to grab. BOLLOCKS!! i shoulda compared the new MC pushrod length to the old one before it went in!:D looks like another case of "cart before the horse". if i can't get it sorted i'll post up. thanks again! cheers Quote Link to comment
sliding_creep Posted January 20, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 20, 2009 when i swapped the manual trans pedal set-up in the hole in the arm was in a different spot and i never adjusted the brake pushrod to compensate. now it stops proper with good pedal feel and no more idiot light. wasn't the car, t'was the nut behind the wrench! :lol: thanks again! cheers Quote Link to comment
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