temp sending unit ?s

[datsunfish]

So I installed a 180 t stat in the 521 today and replaced the temp sending unit with one from a naps z manifold. It seems to work now but reads really low on the guage. I am wondering if it is the same as the older unit or is it reading inaccurately. I have a nice rad with shroud and it is cold around here,also blowing warmer air since the t stat install but it barely goes above the small blue mark on the guage.

[datzenmike]

I'll bet real money they are the same. I put a 720 dash in my 620. The L20B temp sender worked the 720 dash gauge perfectly. Normal running is about 1/3 up the gauge or about 1/4 up in the marked off 'run' area. I run a 190 but have a 3 core from a 200sx in it so no way it will ever run hot.

[ggzilla]

The radiator size shouldn't matter. If the engine gets cold, the thermostat closes until the engine warms up to the rated temperature again. I'd be testing that thermostat in a pot of water with a cooking thermometer.

[datsunfish]

Testing the t stat would only prove that it opens to allow coolant to pass when hot. The heater air is warmer than before without it so I am sure it stays closed. The needle on the guage falls far to the left of the actual painted bar but as the engine comes up to temp it creeps up to the bar and will barely break into it. I think its just the needle out of whack. I could probably bend it to match if I check the temp per factory specs. :mellow:

[hang_510]

I think its just the needle out of whack. I could probably bend it to match if I check the temp per factory specs. :mellow:

 

the new sender is likely accurate. no need to bend!

after verify temp, you now have a 'new' NOT position = calibrated :D

[Phlebmaster]

I think its just the needle out of whack. I could probably bend it to match if I check the temp per factory specs. :mellow:

 

Hey, we could bend our speedo needle to go to 100. Neat idea. :lol:

 

I would not bend the needle for the temp guage, you might never get an accurate reading again.