operation KA drop

[jesusno2]

Almost ready cleaned it all up gave it a pretty coat of ford blue took the intake off so I could gut it.

 

http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v633/jesusno2/?action=view&current=utf-8BYmx1ZSBrYS5qcGc.jpg

[WagDatto]

The mistake I made when I 'gutted' my intake mani on my DOHC is that I used vacuum caps. I have to find a convenient time to pull it back off so I can weld the plugs shut, because replacing vacuum caps is a pain!

 

That, and I'd have run the heater lines BEFORE I put the motor in next time, too. American hands just weren't meant to fit inside a KA intake mani.

[jesusno2]

Were you using those multi colored assorted caps? If so I know what your talking about! Lol. I found some nice heavy rubber ones at car quest auto parts they are hard to put on and even harder to get off! A lot of the holes I may weld up or I might get lazy and just jb weld. I'm gonna paint the intake a cast grey anyways.

[WagDatto]

Not the multi-colored ones, but a rubber vac cap is a rubber vac cap, in my opinion. If you leave them on long enough, they get dry and mine cracked, letting air leak in, screwing with more than a number of things. Welding and painting over it would be the best way to go from the experiences I've had. There are only like 6-8 small tubes that would need to be plugged, depending on whether you use the IACV or not, so just tossing a quick bead down would take care of it while you have the mani off the block.

[inline4]

Not the multi-colored ones, but a rubber vac cap is a rubber vac cap, in my opinion. If you leave them on long enough, they get dry and mine cracked, letting air leak in, screwing with more than a number of things. Welding and painting over it would be the best way to go from the experiences I've had. There are only like 6-8 small tubes that would need to be plugged, depending on whether you use the IACV or not, so just tossing a quick bead down would take care of it while you have the mani off the block.

 

so can I confirm with you that NO vacuum lines are needed at all on the dohc ka? the manifold is off and might as well weld them shut if thats the case.

[Guest DatsuNoob]

By "gutting it" you mean removing the swirl control valve (flapper assy)? I replied on the KA info thread, but never got any clarification on that. What is the benefit of removing it? I was checking out mine a little closer the other day, wouldn't be hard to block up those vaccum lines. Looking good too btw.

[WagDatto]

Yeah, the vacuum lines are pointless IF you don't use the EGR and IACV. The idle air control valve is what typically lets air bypass the throttle body to give you your idle. On mine, I blocked it all off and cracked the throttle body open enough to idle around 800ish rpms using the idle adjuster screw.

 

The only things you need on the intake mani to my knowledge are coolant lines. Which can be looped to eachother if you don't want a heater.

 

Mine was an S14 KA, so I didn't have the swirl assembly. It appears, though, that you can just remove the valves and leave the bar in, or else it'd be a pain to deal with. I doubt that the increase in flow would be insanely noticible, though. It's all preference at that point.

[jesusno2]

I did all of this

 

http://ka24et.com/diys/SOHCemissions/emissions.html

[inline4]

Yeah, the vacuum lines are pointless IF you don't use the EGR and IACV. The idle air control valve is what typically lets air bypass the throttle body to give you your idle. On mine, I blocked it all off and cracked the throttle body open enough to idle around 800ish rpms using the idle adjuster screw.

 

The only things you need on the intake mani to my knowledge are coolant lines. Which can be looped to eachother if you don't want a heater.

 

Mine was an S14 KA, so I didn't have the swirl assembly. It appears, though, that you can just remove the valves and leave the bar in, or else it'd be a pain to deal with. I doubt that the increase in flow would be insanely noticible, though. It's all preference at that point.

 

chris pulled out the bar... do we need to plug each of the holes or should the end being plugged off be fine?

[WagDatto]

From what the website said that jesusno2 linked a post above, it SOUNDS like they all need to be plugged/welded/jbwelded shut. I'd assume the same so that you get proper amounts of air through each runner with no chance of mixing.

[jesusno2]

Yea I would plug them all up you don't want a air leak I'm gonna plug all the holes. all the ones inside the runners, the little guy in the middle and the end one.prolly just jb them up my tig is buried in the corner with my car in the garage.

[Guest DatsuNoob]

This is good info. I'm getting ready to swap out the frontier intake (probably this afternoon) for an S13 setup. My SCV will be coming out also, but I'll be leaving the bar in place. I think that by using a throttle body spacer I have laying around somewhere, it may help atomization should it even be an issue from removing the swirl control valves.

Last night at work, I was thinking about how I'm gonna go about welding those holes up that come off the end of that little smog pump rail thingie and into the manifold (great technical terms, I know, I've been up for 20+ hrs, getting ready for bed now :fu:). I planned on using my mig since they're steel, but I've never welded steel inside of aluminum before. Aluminum melts at a much lower temp than steel though. Does anyone see a problem here? Maybe just tack, cool, repeat? Dont mean to drag this out more, I just dont want any warping or melting. Thanks guys.

[WagDatto]

I don't know much about welding (yet!), so I can't answer your question directly. However, since there's no real heavy vibration, heat, or disturbances, I think that JB Weld would hold up through anything on that portion of the intake manifold. I don't see any reason to overdo what needs to be done and risk warping something (though I doubt a few small holes being welded would warp the flange or anything!).

 

Just my .02

[BEEBANI]

Loctite makes a really nice aluminum epoxy that we've used at work for building things up and machining them down. That's another option also.

[jesusno2]

You won't have any problem welding inside the manifold on steel. Aluminum does melt at a lower temp but it disipates heat very fast! that's why when your welding actuall aluminum you need a ton of heat to keep it flowing. So weld away!

[Guest DatsuNoob]

No luck welding that up. Those little ports are super thin wall, and pretty much burn right up. Couldnt get the weld to stick either. The little welds that I did put in there looked real loose (no tig :(), so I pluck'd em out. Anyway, gonna use some quiksteel and call it good.

[Cuts metal like mad]

quicksteel is garbage! Don't do it! Jb weld is a much better product...