Peabody Posted July 24 Author Report Share Posted July 24 Back after a little time away. Dug around for paperwork but couldn't find anything referencing the engine number, just the Gas Mileage Info mentioning the throttle body injection. Here's what's on the engine block, though I wasn't sure if the "i" would show up or just Z24 like I have here. Also found some other paperwork with the manual that looks to be from the original purchase. Pretty cool! Nissan accessory advertisements Got the throttle body that was pulled off by the original owner. I also looked at the fuel pump, and it does appear to be the high pressure variety with hoses coming in/out of the top/bottom. PS - If anyone has the part number for this "Grade A Strawberry Jam" that would be greatly appreciated... found wedged in the frame and I think it's structurally integral 😅 Quote Link to comment
powderfinger Posted July 25 Report Share Posted July 25 If you are currently running a carburetor I would definitely either swap out that fuel pump or by a pressure regulator to get the pressure down. Don't quote me on this but I believe the z24i fuel pump runs around 22psi and you need more like 3psi for the carb. Quote Link to comment
powderfinger Posted July 25 Report Share Posted July 25 Another even better option would be to sell the truck to me for $1000 and you wouldn't have to spend your time fixing all these little things lol. Think of all the time you would save. :-) Quote Link to comment
Peabody Posted July 25 Author Report Share Posted July 25 34 minutes ago, powderfinger said: If you are currently running a carburetor I would definitely either swap out that fuel pump or by a pressure regulator to get the pressure down. Don't quote me on this but I believe the z24i fuel pump runs around 22psi and you need more like 3psi for the carb. I think you're right about that, PO actually did install a regulator and had issues before he set the pressure right. Set to 3psi now and working fine as far as I can tell. If I were to replace the fuel pump down the line, would it make sense to get another high pressure to match the truck came with or switch to low pressure and skip the regulator? Thanks for the generous offer, I'll keep that in mind 😛 Quote Link to comment
NC85ST Posted July 25 Report Share Posted July 25 Low pressure and skip the regulator. The more complicated, the more potential problems. 1 Quote Link to comment
Peabody Posted July 29 Author Report Share Posted July 29 What's the consensus on fender flares, keep 'em or nah? Did they come stock on the 4x4? I like the OEM ones better than any of the after market ones I've seen, but not sure if I'll end up putting them back on. Needs new hardware anyway, they're very rusted. Also featuring new grille and freshly painted bumper🥰 Quote Link to comment
bilzbobaggins Posted July 29 Report Share Posted July 29 They look like ass. Send them to me. lol jk I like em Id rock the mess out of them. And personaly, I dislike wheels/tires that are not covered by fenders or flares. Quote Link to comment
Peabody Posted July 29 Author Report Share Posted July 29 24 minutes ago, bilzbobaggins said: They look like ass. Send them to me. lol jk I like em Id rock the mess out of them. And personaly, I dislike wheels/tires that are not covered by fenders or flares. lol, we'll see how I like them once I get them freshened up. Quote Link to comment
IZRL Posted July 29 Report Share Posted July 29 4 hours ago, Peabody said: What's the consensus on fender flares, keep 'em or nah? Did they come stock on the 4x4? I like the OEM ones better than any of the after market ones I've seen, but not sure if I'll end up putting them back on. Needs new hardware anyway, they're very rusted. I took a couple of the flares off my truck. I stood back a ways to get a better look..... and I promptly put them back on. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted July 29 Report Share Posted July 29 9 hours ago, Peabody said: What's the consensus on fender flares, keep 'em or nah? Did they come stock on the 4x4? I like the OEM ones better than any of the after market ones I've seen, but not sure if I'll end up putting them back on. Needs new hardware anyway, they're very rusted. Also featuring new grille and freshly painted bumper🥰 Keep. Quote Link to comment
Peabody Posted September 14 Author Report Share Posted September 14 When you're right, you're right. Before and after I freshened up the fenders and replaced some old hardware. Been driving it periodically and had some questions about the choke/idle. Brief timeline: - When I first got it, it would high idle when cold ~2-3K RPM. Pressing on the gas would bring the RPM down and stabilize around 1500. From what I could tell the choke would be closed when cold and then be fully open once warm. - I have notes from only a couple days later idling at 1K to 1500 when cold and then settling at 800 once warm. - Period of time driving it off and on, sometimes only a couple times a week or less when I was away. Probably 2 months go by. - Now notice battery light would be on, turns over a bit longer than usual before starting and doesn't high idle. Sits at about 800 rpm when cold or warm. I drive it like that for a bit thinking I'll be replacing the battery soon. - Decide to check the carb again to see what it's doing. > Cold, choke is open and throttle lever is not touching idle screw > Pull throttle cable, choke closes. Started and idles at 3K RPM > Gas pedal pushed, drops down to 1.5K RPM, choke ~half open > Pull throttle cable, choke opens fully. Idle at 1K RPM > Let sit to cool, choke closed a little bit but is more than half way open > Pull throttle cable and it closes fully Is this functioning properly or is the choke hanging up somewhere? Seems like it should come all the way back to close once it's cool without pulling the throttle. Also, just received a box of parts from the PO. He gave me the K-644-38 Weber carb kit box, which doesn't appear to be an option on redlineweber.com. I see the kit on some other sites which appear to have the same components I have. Some of them describe a more involved process (low pressure fuel pump, regulator, new fuel pickup) but the PO just dropped in the new carb and regulator and called it a day from what it seems like. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted September 14 Report Share Posted September 14 The throttle is closed when choke is fully open. When completely cold from sitting say, over night, the choke wants to close but the throttle is in the way. This is why you step on the gas... to release and set the choke to on, before trying to start. A new Weber shouldn't need a fuel pressure regulator. Well unless you still have the high pressure Z24i pump. Quote Link to comment
Peabody Posted September 14 Author Report Share Posted September 14 Thanks Mike, I wondered if it was as simple as stepping on the gas before starting. I don't have the habit of doing that yet. I get the feeling nothing was changed except the bare minimum. In this case adding the carb and regulator that came with the kit. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted September 14 Report Share Posted September 14 And I forget that everyone grew up with EFI and all you do to start is turn the key. Carburetors are very mechanical. At least it's an automatic choke. Older Datsuns had manual choke pull lever on the dash. Had to remember to pull it out to start and push it in once warm or driving. Forgetting meant 12 MPG for the day. Quote Link to comment
Peabody Posted September 14 Author Report Share Posted September 14 True, I am enjoying being more engaged in the driving experience though. Quote Link to comment
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