Derek Harris Posted June 26 Report Share Posted June 26 Hello everyone, I had previously posted a problem I had about the heating of my 74 Datsun 620 (the radiator does not work and is not the original one) and I cannot find the correct one, please help. Quote Link to comment
Derek Harris Posted June 26 Author Report Share Posted June 26 3 minutes ago, Derek Harris said: Hello everyone, I had previously posted a problem I had about the heating of my 74 Datsun 620 (the radiator does not work and is not the original one) and I cannot find the correct one, please help. Clarifying: it's an L18 engine and I haven't had good luck finding one so it's quite frustrating. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted June 27 Report Share Posted June 27 (edited) take a photo as the early 620s had the top hose on the other side. which is like a 1 or maybe 2 year limit on those.Rare rads Edited June 27 by banzai510(hainz) Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted June 27 Report Share Posted June 27 There were three radiators (six if you include the cooling lines from the automatic) '73-'74, '75'-77 and '78 and '79. The '73-'74 had the top hose on the passenger side. Over heats idling or only when driving or both????? Non radiator causes... Temperature gauge may be wrong. Use an IR 'gun' and 'shoot' the thermostat housing to confirm there is a problem Failure to cool properly can be faulty thermostat. Head gasket may be blown. Lack of air flow... Clutch fan slipping. Should be firm resistance spinning by hand. Shroud missing. Radiator fins damaged or blocked with debris Gap anywhere around the radiator that lets air get past it rather than through it. Spare tire, fog lights or bush bar blocking air. Lack of coolant flow... Bottom rad hose soft and collapses from pump suction when engine revved up. Internal kettle scale from hard water blocking vertical tubes. Heater leaking and hoses joined to bypass it. Quote Link to comment
Derek Harris Posted June 28 Author Report Share Posted June 28 12 hours ago, banzai510(hainz) said: take a photo as the early 620s had the top hose on the other side. which is like a 1 or maybe 2 year limit on those.Rare rads I would like to post the photo but I don't know how to post it here. It asks me for URL Quote Link to comment
Derek Harris Posted June 28 Author Report Share Posted June 28 12 hours ago, banzai510(hainz) said: take a photo as the early 620s had the top hose on the other side. which is like a 1 or maybe 2 year limit on those.Rare rads The top socket is on the driver's side and the bottom socket is on the passenger side. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted June 28 Report Share Posted June 28 That's the most common positions for the L4 and 6 engines. All it has to do is cool. Quote Link to comment
Derek Harris Posted June 28 Author Report Share Posted June 28 11 hours ago, datzenmike said: There were three radiators (six if you include the cooling lines from the automatic) '73-'74, '75'-77 and '78 and '79. The '73-'74 had the top hose on the passenger side. Over heats idling or only when driving or both????? Non radiator causes... Temperature gauge may be wrong. Use an IR 'gun' and 'shoot' the thermostat housing to confirm there is a problem Failure to cool properly can be faulty thermostat. Head gasket may be blown. Lack of air flow... Clutch fan slipping. Should be firm resistance spinning by hand. Shroud missing. Radiator fins damaged or blocked with debris Gap anywhere around the radiator that lets air get past it rather than through it. Spare tire, fog lights or bush bar blocking air. Lack of coolant flow... Bottom rad hose soft and collapses from pump suction when engine revved up. Internal kettle scale from hard water blocking vertical tubes. Heater leaking and hoses joined to bypass it. My mechanic mentioned that it was due to the poor condition of the radiator honeycomb, since it has quite a few dents. Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted June 28 Report Share Posted June 28 I've seen radiators so beat up that still cool just fine. If the fins are bent over blocking the air flow, it is possible to straighten them. You can do it with a fork, a small screwdriver or a pair of needle nose pliers. Be gentle and do not pinch the core tubes running between the fins. Oh, and it will take a while. Like a couple of hours or more. Quote Link to comment
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