Knocking Noise and White smoke

[bottomwatcher]

Slow down. Let us help and don't pay big bucks for an engine. I have advertised them for $100  and nobody wants them.

[datzenmike]

I have an imgur account.

[SlowNsteady]

@datzenmike 

Ok update. I have replaced the head gasket, the intake manifold gasket, exhaust manifold gaskets, got everything back together, and made sure the engine was at tdc before starting work. I cleaned the block, the head and all contact surfaces where the gasket was to make contact. So now I have a new set of problems.

 

1. She runs again but now she won't idle. I have to start the engine by giving it gas and keep it on by fetgering the gas. I didn't change any setting though. 

 

2. The loud knocking Noise has gone away and has been replaced by a lower tick. I have a video that you can hear when the knock goes away and the tick remains. 

 

3. The exhaust is still spewing out white fumes

 

Would it still be rod knock? 

[bottomwatcher]

If you can check the compression you would get your headgasket issue answered. Possible burnt valve if valve setting maintainnce was ignored.

Lack of idle meaning runs rough at idle? If so probably a vacuum leak. Hoses or carb base most likely if you are confident on the intake manifold.

[SlowNsteady]

On 6/25/2024 at 5:29 PM, bottomwatcher said:

If you can check the compression you would get your headgasket issue answered. Possible burnt valve if valve setting maintainnce was ignored.

Lack of idle meaning runs rough at idle? If so probably a vacuum leak. Hoses or carb base most likely if you are confident on the intake manifold.

I would need to take it to a shop to get the compression tested. What do I ask them? “Hey can you run a compression test? I’m suspicious of the head gasket?”

 

No, by lack of idle I mean I can get her to start by pressing the gas as I’m turning the ignition. Then I have. To keep the gas pressed like at 15-20% 

for the engine to keep running. Once I let go of the gas the car will almost immediately die 

[datzenmike]

When apart...

 

Were the piston tops alright? no damage?

 

 Did you replace the valve seals? Did the valves look alright? No observable damage?

 

Did you check the head for flatness?

 

Poor idle...

Check plug wires are correct. (I know, it's often the obvious things)

 

 

 

The white smoke will take twenty minutes or more to 'burn off' the insides of the exhaust system.

[bottomwatcher]

You can "Rent" a compression testor for free in Autozones loaner tool program. Gives a good general idea of thr health of the engine.

[SlowNsteady]

On 6/29/2024 at 8:57 AM, datzenmike said:

When apart...

 

Were the piston tops alright? no damage?

 

 Did you replace the valve seals? Did the valves look alright? No observable damage?

 

Did you check the head for flatness?

 

Poor idle...

Check plug wires are correct. (I know, it's often the obvious things)

 

 

 

The white smoke will take twenty minutes or more to 'burn off' the insides of the exhaust system.

The piston tops looked fine from what I can see. 
 

I did not replace the valve seals…… would I have to remove the head again to do that? 
 

I took a picture of the engine without the head. I think someone may have mixed the different types of coolant. Also they used that blue silicone gasket sealer stuff on the intake side and it completely clogged one of the rear little channels. I think it was the 3rd or fourth piston. 
 

the plug wires are in the correct order but they seem to be out of place. Like it shifted 3 spots clockwise I think. Sorry for the late response I’m currently out of the country 
 

[datzenmike]

You can change the valve seals without removing the head.

 

This is why I detest RTV sealers used on gaskets. That's what the gasket is for!!!!!! Most home mechanics don't know how or when to use that shit.

 

 

Blue RTV found in a KA-E head used by a moron probably on the water pump. SMH. RTV has it's uses, but this sure ain't it.

 

 

Distributor. Cannot move unless you took the oil pump out. Probably imagination.

[SlowNsteady]

8 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

You can change the valve seals without removing the head.

 

This is why I detest RTV sealers used on gaskets. That's what the gasket is for!!!!!! Most home mechanics don't know how or when to use that shit.

 

 

Blue RTV found in a KA-E head used by a moron probably on the water pump. SMH. RTV has it's uses, but this sure ain't it.

 

 

Distributor. Cannot move unless you took the oil pump out. Probably imagination.

Sounds good I will change the valve seals when I get back. 
 

yeah that’s exactly what I took out. Except it was all gray. 
 

I’ll label the wires when I get back to show you. But I tried to switch the wires to what my manual said they’re supposed to be (the same order listed in the picture you posted) and the engine wouldn’t start and it had a burnt smell after trying to start 

[datzenmike]

Then the oil pump and drive spindle were out at some other time and put back in, in a different location. The distributer would have been out of time so maybe they moved the wires around.

 

Set to TDC compression stroke on #1. Remove distributor and look in the hole... should look like this... 

 

 

Changing the valve seals, I just set the engine to the compression stroke on the cylinder I want to do the seals on. Remove the spark plug. Get about 3 feet of 3/8 or 7/16 nylon rope and tie a big knot at one end. Push all but the knotted end into the cylinder and by hand turn the engine, pushing the piston up and compressing the rope into the combustion chamber. Now the valves cannot drop into the cylinder and you can compress the springs and remove them to get at the valve seals.

 

Yes, you can use compressed air, but you need a compressor and an adapter to fit the plug threads and hope the power doesn't go off. Using the 'rope trick' you can do on the side of the road or stop for the night and finish in the morning.

[SlowNsteady]

Ok so I just got back from a little vacation with the family. Working on the truck. I filled the coolant getting ready to test drive it and this is the first time I have done this after I replaced the head gasket, intake and exhaust manifold gaskets. All of the coolant immediately leaked out of the intake manifold……… I tried to tighten it to spec? But this leaking is excessive. Is this a common problem? 

[SlowNsteady]

Also, adding on to the leak, I didn’t even turn the car on. It leaked while the engine was off 

[NC85ST]

Do you have a picture of exactly where it’s leaking from?

[SlowNsteady]

The forum isn’t letting me post trough Imgur. But here is the link https://imgur.com/yArJZ2y

[SlowNsteady]

Imgur is being weird again. But here is another angle. It’s leaking heavily from the rear ones. Right under you can see, hear and feel the coolant just pouring out. https://imgur.com/gallery/leaky-intake-0d7Ctf1

[datzenmike]

No it should not leak and no this is not common.

 

 

Looks like under the #1 intake port runner.

 

Take the intake off and check for a piece of the old gasket that didn't get removed. Could be on head or intake.

 

Possibly the head or the intake was knocked leaving a divot on the aluminum.

[SlowNsteady]

Ok new update fellas. I think the manifold itself is cracked.  It seems that the leaks are coming from about an inch away from where the manifold and head meet. Droplets forming seemingly from out of nowhere. 

[datzenmike]

It has to come off anyway.

[SlowNsteady]

That’s fair. I’ll get started…… 

 

so there’s a 720 in a junkyard near me. Still has the intake manifold. Do you recommend I try to scavenge it from that one? Is it worth the risk?  I took a picture of it 

 

and again Imgur link doesn’t work for me 😕 https://imgur.com/gallery/4EZybJG

16 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

It has to come off anyway.

 

[datzenmike]

 

There's no reason for it to leak so take it off and have a really good look at it. I've seen coolant run in a thin sheet, stop and form a drip a long way from the actual leak site.