85 nissan 720 Horrible clunk

[Taylor880]

Hey folks, got a weird one.

1985 720

RWD

176k miles

 

While on the highway today around 45-60mph my truck started giving me a horrendous sounding/feeling clunk. It felt as if some force started on the front passenger side and would quickly move to the driver side and CLUNK and jerk the steering wheel to the left a bit. Honestly didn't think I was gonna make it home. 

 

Driving slow off the highway it gave me the clunk every other or so sharp left hand turn. 

 

I recently did ball joints, tie rod ends, sway bar end links. Put on a new carrier bearing this morning as the old one was totally mangled and rotten. 

 

Any ideas what could be going on? It's a blood curtling sound/feeling. This link Is a video of turning left.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ScCMnEKShCnVyjI8P0dJnBZQ1oVsGwei/view

[datzenmike]

Check wheel lug nuts are tight.

 

Check the work you did ball joints, tie rods and anything taken off to do this work.

 

[Taylor880]

Just now, datzenmike said:

Check wheel lug nuts are tight.

 

Check the work you did ball joints, tie rods and anything taken off to do this work.

 

I've been driving it for a month or so since the front end stuff with no issues, but I'll do a once over tomorrow morning. As far as lugs go I am missing one stud on the passenger side, but it still has 5. Would not having six really be that big of a deal?

[Taylor880]

9 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

Check wheel lug nuts are tight.

 

Check the work you did ball joints, tie rods and anything taken off to do this work.

 

Also, I apologize I uploaded the wrong video. Getting the right one up now

[Stinky]

I'd make sure that those 5 nuts are tight.

 

Double check your work, as mentioned, and look for loose nuts.

 

have somebody rock the Steering Wheel back and forth and look for slop.  Grab each wheel at 9 and 3 o'Clock and shake/twist them.  Then, do the same at 12N on the tire.

[Taylor880]

Well pretty quickly figured out this morning the front drivers side bearing is garbage. Metal shavings and all 😬. Seems to have happen out of nowhere.

 

So now my question is. How the hell do I get the hub off to replace the bearing. Caliper, pads, etc are off. Seems like the bolts holding the hub on are almost inaccessible. They are on the backside of the hub/rotor, with almost zero room to get a socket in. Any advice? Do I need to take the hub off to get the wheel bearing out/new one in?

[620slodat]

When did this sound start? Was it when you did the drive shaft bearing? Think back to the work you did at the time. Did it start then? Like already said, check all the bolts/nuts you touched, and then more.

 

Don

[Taylor880]

13 minutes ago, 620slodat said:

When did this sound start? Was it when you did the drive shaft bearing? Think back to the work you did at the time. Did it start then? Like already said, check all the bolts/nuts you touched, and then more.

 

Don

Hey Don,

Discovered this morning the driver side wheel bearing is junk. Trying to figure out how to take the old bearing out now and having trouble. Does the whole hub have to come off? The bolts for the hub are on the backside and not given enough clearing to get any socket or wrench in. 

[620slodat]

The center nut (do not have a pic, it would be good if I did though) holds the hub on. Take that off to take the hub off. To put the hub back on after replacing parts, put the nut back tight, turn the hub a few turns, then loosen the center nut and put it back on finger tight.  This will push the bearing on all the way. Turn the hub a few turns and feel the hub. If it feels tight loosen the center nut just a little bit. The best bet is to use your manual to do the last bit of tightening.

 

Don

 

yes, the whole hub needs to come off, not the center bolts. The center bolts hold the brake on.

Edited February 7 by 620slodat

[Taylor880]

3 minutes ago, 620slodat said:

The center nut (do not have a pic, it would be good if I did though) holds the hub on. Take that off to take the hub off. To put the hub back on after replacing parts, put the nut back tight, turn the hub a few turns, then loosen the center nut and put it back on finger tight.  This will push the bearing on all the way. Turn the hub a few turns and feel the hub. If it feels tight loosen the center nut just a little bit. The best bet is to use your manual to do the last bit of tightening.

 

Don

Center nut has been off for awhile now, and the hub won't budge an inch out. I figured there was more to it. Is there a trick to pull it off?

[620slodat]

Where are you located? (I just now figured out why the previous letters are so dark. Computers and I don't get along very well. My daughter is my go to expert, and she is asleep currently.)

 

Don

[Taylor880]

1 minute ago, 620slodat said:

Where are you located? (I just now figured out why the previous letters are so dark. Computers and I don't get along very well. My daughter is my go to expert, and she is asleep currently.)

 

Don

Don,

 

No problem I could still read them just fine. I'm located in Joshua Tree California. No rust issues or anything. There does seem to be another "washer" in front of the bearing still. Nut came off, big washer with it, but another one seems to remain. Zero luck trying to get the second washer off. May be keeping the hub on?

[datzenmike]

27 minutes ago, Taylor880 said:

Center nut has been off for awhile now, and the hub won't budge an inch out. I figured there was more to it. Is there a trick to pull it off?

 

  Here is the wheel bearing nut. It's the one with the raised teeth and technically is called a castellated nut. You may be able to reach in with a screwdriver and lightly hammer it loose. Or Nissan tool KV 40104300.

 

 

 

If this is the nut you say is off then driving it may have welded the bearing parts onto the spindle. Give the rotor a rap inward  with a hammer and this may dislodge the hub.

[620slodat]

Southern California? My wife has an aunt and uncle that live just east of Sacramento in (I think) Roseville. But, they have a similar problem I do, transportation.

I'm not as familiar with the newer Datsuns/Nissans. I'm familiar with only a single washer, but a second washer could be there. Does the first washer (that is already out) have a locating tab in the center of it? The second washer? Do you have a pic? I'm an ex-cabinetmaker, not a wrench turner. Just a "think about it" wrench turner. (I have a problem, I hunt and peck type. So, I'm a bit sloooow.)

 

Don

[Taylor880]

6 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

 

  Here is the wheel bearing nut. It's the one with the raised teeth and technically is called a castellated nut. You may be able to reach in with a screwdriver and lightly hammer it loose. Or Nissan tool KV 40104300.

 

 

 

If this is the nut you say is off then driving it may have welded the bearing parts onto the spindle. Give the rotor a rap inward  with a hammer and this may dislodge the hub.

Got the hub.. took a lot of prying and force, but she's off. 

 

Another question if you don't mind (sorry I'm new to all this).

 

Should I replace both inner and outer bearings. Can't tell how good the inner is really, and don't really see how to take it out. Secondly, the "housing" for te outer bearing.. should I be using a new one? Seems to be in fine shape, and won't budge out of the hub 

[620slodat]

datzenmike chiming in is real good as he knows a lot about Datsuns/Nissans. Also, he has a pic of the whole thing, with bearing.

 

Don

[620slodat]

If you have the money it would be a real good idea to replace it as a whole unit. Inner, outer bearings, wheel  hub, and maybe even the hub if it is damaged at all, and it may be damaged. If you were thinking at all about lowering the vehicle now is the time to do it. Lowering hubs will lower the pickup in front by 2 inches without affecting the camber (I think that is the right term). There will be more expense involved for the rear end and front end, but now may be the time to do it.

 

Don

Edited February 7 by 620slodat
adding more info

[Taylor880]

16 minutes ago, 620slodat said:

If you have the money it would be a real good idea to replace it as a whole unit. Inner, outer bearings, wheel  hub, and maybe even the hub if it is damaged at all, and it may be damaged. If you were thinking at all about lowering the vehicle now is the time to do it. Lowering hubs will lower the pickup in front by 2 inches without affecting the camber (I think that is the right term). There will be more expense involved for the rear end and front end, but now may be the time to do it.

 

Don

I don't really have the money to do hubs and all at the moment, but the hubs themselves seem to be fine. I could inner and outer though if you think I should. Will I need a new rubber wheel seal for the inner? 

[620slodat]

Definitely replace the seal as that is what holds the grease in. Also, definitely replace both inner and outer bearings as that held the material in place. Also, VERY carefully check the hub and center hub (threaded section) for any bad sections (micrometer or?).

 

Don

[datzenmike]

Unless the bearing seized onto the interior hub surfaces, damaging them, there's no need to replace the hub.

 

 

If the spindle surfaces that the bearing races fit against are not damaged then replace both bearings and the inner seal which has to come off to get the inner bearing out anyway. Most likely cause is water in the grease and if one is bad the other is close behind.

 

I think you can do this without removing the rotor from the hub. With the hub off and old grease washed out with rags and solvent you can reach in from the front and drive the inner bearing race out the back. And reach in from the back side to drive the outer race out the front. Use a brass drift, something soft for this. The outer bearing races are pounded in carefully, the outer from the front and the inner from the rear.  

 

 

 Fully pack the hub interior cavity with NEW axle grease. Fully pack grease around the new inner bearing and install the new seal by lightly pounding into place. Fully pack the outer bearing with grease and install.

 

Slip hub onto cleaned spindle. Tighten 4x4 wheel nut to 60-70 ft lbs. (2wd are half this amount) Spin wheel several times in both directions and just barely loosen the nut. Then using a fish scale on a wheel lug record the effort in pounds to start movement. Tighten lock nut 30 degrees and install lock washer. Spin wheel several times in both directions and record the effort in pounds to start movement. 

 

Bearing pre-load is calculated by subtracting the first reading from the last. If between 1.6 and 4.7 pounds you're good. If not repeat by further tightening or loosening the nut and spinning the wheel before measuring. Once pre-load is correct finish assembly.

 

 

[620slodat]

Listen very carefully to what datzenmike has to say as he knows a lot, way more than I do. I'm more like a credible hack than he is. His fish scale method of setting the bearings is very good, more like what I was thinking but was not saying because I was not sure of the specs. He is good, and can type waaaay faster than me with my hunt and peck style. 

I've got to shut the dog up now as he is barking too much.

 

Don