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Idling and RPM


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Hey all 

 

So I set my oil pump on 1135 or whatever mike said to set it at ( took me 45 min to set) put the distributor back on and went to start her up...now the next problem

 

So she idles really rough and when I give her gas the carburetor makes a loud pop sound and it dies. I think its the air/gas mixture but not to sure. Its a 1980 so it has the Hitachi carb and I can't find anywhere on how to tune it. So basically its simple 

 

1. Would this make the same thing if the oil pump wasen't set  properly? ( I'm posting a picture in a bit just gotta set it to TDC and take distributor off) 

 

2. Could it be my sequence is off? I did 1-3-4-2 and the manual says its correct but I'm always confused on which one is the number 1 

 

3. How do I resolve this issue or narrow down the problem? 

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its close to 11/25  almost 11/29 say when the crank is on zero install the pump and look up at top .

 

if poping try putting on a timing light and see where you at. if you cant adjust down to zero then your off a tooth. if you can say get zero to 25BTDC w light I say your ok then on distributor.. say 7-12 degs will be close enough to get running ok

 

 

air gas mixture is the brass screw at base of carb you tun it in/out till it runs smoother

 

 

is this a L motor or a NAPZ motor  1980 was a cross year some still had L20s

 

OH you take a photo from this angle looking at it not upside down looking at it, fan belt on left side looking at the hole

 

Look close if you ran a straight edge over the spinal it would over hang the top right side bolt hole,  Bottom on left side bolt hole

HPIM0236.JPG

oilpumpspindal.bmp

Edited by banzai510(hainz)
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11 minutes ago, banzai510(hainz) said:

its close to 11/25  almost 11/29 say when the crank is on zero install the pump and look up at top .

 

if poping try putting on a timing light and see where you at. if you cant adjust down to zero then your off a tooth. if you can say get zero to 25BTDC w light I say your ok then on distributor.. say 7-12 degs will be close enough to get running ok

 

 

air gas mixture is the brass screw at base of carb you tun it in/out till it runs smoother

 

 

is this a L motor or a NAPZ motor  1980 was a cross year some still had L20s

 

OH you take a photo from this angle looking at it not upside down looking at it, fan belt on left side looking at the hole

 

Look close if you ran a straight edge over the spinal it would over hang the top right side bolt hole,  Bottom on left side bolt hole

HPIM0236.JPG

oilpumpspindal.bmp 662.4 kB · 3 downloads

 

 

 

I posted a picture trying the same angle as you. Just bright outside. It dies look right. 

 

It doesn't idle long enough for it to run a timing light. It literally runs for about 6 seconds then it pops and dies 

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You have a idle cut off wire missing where its not getting gas at idle? But runs if you keep pumping the gas (accell pump)??? This will be on the side of the carb

 

Choke issue.

 

you have gas squirting in the carb when you cycle the linkage???? If yes this is good.

 

 

Ok your on your own IM leaving for awhile

 

Edited by banzai510(hainz)
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9 minutes ago, banzai510(hainz) said:

You have a idle cut off wire missing where its not getting gas at idle? But runs if you keep pumping the gas (accell pump)??? This will be on the side of the carb

 

Choke issue.

 

you have gas squirting in the carb when you cycle the linkage???? If yes this is good.

 

 

Ok your on your own IM leaving for awhile

 

 

So it doesn't run at all basically. It turns over runs for about 2-3 seconds and then I hear a pop from the carb and it turns off. 

 

If I hit the gas it goes up on RPM but won't go above 1,500RPM last about 10 seconds and the pop happens and shuts off 

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1342 is the firing order in a counter clockwise direction on the distributor cap.

 

Ignition timing is 12 degrees Before TDC. Loosen the distributor and try turning it slightly counter clockwise it may be too advanced. See if this helps.

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what carb is this and maybe soem photos.

I cant keep track of everything you done on this but is carbe was swapped makes ure if a weber the carb adapter didnt crack.

 

get some vid if possible.

 

I had the spring on the 2nd fall off once thus the 2nd on the weber would open to soon boogin it out. Cheack that also.

 

like I said Idle cut off on  carb,later cars and trucks if equiped

cracked carb adapter if weber installed.

loose intake and or carb bolts.

make sure rrotor points to number one plug wire

 

if you redid the head make sure the rocker arms adjusted correctly

 

ifyou spray starting fluid in carb and it fires off immedialty then I say elelctrically it good maybe besides timing adjustment.

Edited by banzai510(hainz)
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1 hour ago, banzai510(hainz) said:

what carb is this and maybe soem photos.

I cant keep track of everything you done on this but is carbe was swapped makes ure if a weber the carb adapter didnt crack.

 

get some vid if possible.

 

I had the spring on the 2nd fall off once thus the 2nd on the weber would open to soon boogin it out. Cheack that also.

 

like I said Idle cut off on  carb,later cars and trucks if equiped

cracked carb adapter if weber installed.

loose intake and or carb bolts.

make sure rrotor points to number one plug wire

 

if you redid the head make sure the rocker arms adjusted correctly

 

ifyou spray starting fluid in carb and it fires off immedialty then I say elelctrically it good maybe besides timing adjustment.

 

I haven't done anything to the carb. I ordered a weber so when I get it running I can put a better carb in it. 

 

So update *

 

It took me awhile but I think I wasent top dead center. I looked online and saw a trick with TDC. 

 

I put my finger on the spark plug hole on cylinder 1. 

 

I turned till I felt the piston pushing air towards my finger

 

Once I felt the air pushing my finger I took a small screwdriver and felt to see if the piston was on top and if timing was on 0. 

 

Once all that was completed I then set NY oil pump to this 

IMG_20230708_092802229_HDR.thumb.jpg.f0a61d2b17ccf7143dda627a0132e235.jpg

 

From the picture mike sent it seems pretty spot on. I can't get a better angle cause the sun is super bright today. That is close to the angle mike sent. 

 

 

 

 

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well to find TDC ther photo above is correct. but really you dont have to do the TDC just look thru the oil cap and the lobe there is intake Number ! and once it passes about the 9 oclock position then just look at the crank and dial it up closck wise to Zero notch on crank.  the spindal shoulld be close to what you have set. that 11/28 position or so. Then you install the dist till it locks down. on hopefull where the rotor points and this is close to where you hasve a number 1 plug wire. and move the dist pedastal adv or retard to get good starting.

 

what is that funky piece of metal on the distributor mount? I dont reconize it on my distributors?

 

really was this motor running before??????

what was changed?

Edited by banzai510(hainz)
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4 minutes ago, banzai510(hainz) said:

well to find TDC ther photo above is correct. but really you dont have to do the TDC just look thru the oil cap and the lobe there is intake Number ! and once it passes about the 9 oclock position then just look at the crank and dial it up closck wise to Zero notch on crank.  the spindal shoulld be close to what you have set. that 11/28 position or so. Then you install the dist till it locks down. on hopefull where the rotor points and this is close to where you hasve a number 1 plug wire. and move the dist pedastal adv or retard to get good starting.

 

what is that funky piece of metal on the distributor mount? I dont reconize it on my distributors?

 

really was this motor running before??????

what was changed.

 

The metal came with the trucj. It ties the distributor to the mount. I've never seen it before ether but idk

 

The engine was running completely fine and I drive it daily for a year. It ran hot  so I upgraded to a fan clutch water pump and when I tightened down a bolt broke that went into the block. I had to take everything off to get to the bolt and here we are...

Edited by Veraciousreasoning
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27 minutes ago, banzai510(hainz) said:

yeah I dont know what the metal piece is hanging on there and whats it there for if not needed unless its a hooky timing lock down with another hole. but you should know it it went together.

I got to split but eveything look good unless you take alot of photors with the rotor lock down and relation where it spointing this should be a simple fix.

 

Well apparently its not suppose to be there at all...Bonsai sent me a video of him installing it and I installed it without that plate and screwed into it. Started right up and idles like it use to. Just gotta tune the carb cause I'm 6,000 ft higher than I use to be. 

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7 hours ago, datzenmike said:

Higher is smaller jet. Lower is larger.

Spin counter clockwise to lower rpm and spin clockwise for higher rpm? 

 

She sounds like she did before but actually a bit smoother. I'm starting to think the timing in the  Distributor was always off. I'm gonna record a video of her idling tomorrow and see what you guys think 

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