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Idle issues and stutter problems


720axr

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Hey all I'm having issues with my z24 idling high and stuttering in park. I've been scouring the internet to see if anyone else has had the same issue and I've had no luck. I've recently performed a vacuum delete and I've capped the EGR valve. I have no A/C solenoid either. Any and all input would help!

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16 hours ago, 720axr said:

Hey all I'm having issues with my z24 idling high and stuttering in park. I've been scouring the internet to see if anyone else has had the same issue and I've had no luck. I've recently performed a vacuum delete and I've capped the EGR valve. I have no A/C solenoid either. Any and all input would help!

Been trying to get some help with some stuttering too, I have a manual though. It's when Vac switch A and B (you only have 1 of these) is hooked up, it stutters around town especially taking off. Runs amazing otherwise 👌 and the switches test OK. Idk if I have too high vacuum at idle or neutral switch not working or something not communicating with the fuel management. Idle also a bit up and down too when connected. I know it will run OK without but will save me a bit of gas around town and will switch to open loop under wot if the idle cut is working properly. 

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On 5/15/2023 at 11:18 AM, datzenmike said:

Do you have the Z24i engine? with EFI???? Has two wing nuts holding the air filter on. May say Electro-Injection on it.

 

 

 

Just asking, what I suspect datzenmike might ask in a conversation like this.

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I am also having this issue on my single cab, 2WD 84'. But after initial start and run for the day, idle lowers and stuttering eases. Is this because it is carbureted and gas pedal needs to be pumped first before start up and given warm up time? This is the most helpful forum I could find on the interwebz. I appreciate whatever help I can get. 

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Carburetors do not give the same perfect mixture like EFI. Carburetors suck up fuel from engine vacuum and on the way to the combustion chamber engine heat fully evaporates the fuel so it can mix with the air. On cold start up extra fuel is added to assure that enough evaporates that the engine will run, though still not at full efficiency. Easily done on an EFI engine but otherwise a choke is used. This is a mechanical restriction that causes the engine to suck in more fuel and there is a fast idle cam added to rev the engine slightly to speed the warm up. If set up properly, you step on the gas once (2 or more if severely cold) to set the choke, start and you should be able to put in gear and drive away, though not producing full power yet. Warming up just wastes fuel, you can drive away at once and the fastest warm up is if you drive.

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