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NEED HELP! 1986 720 Battery Shorted Out Against the Hood. Now Has Bad Engine Miss.....


Yinzer

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Small positive increase in power. Most Webers are compared to the old old troublesome Hitachi they replace, so they are somewhat exaggerated. The Weber is much simpler with fewer things to go wrong but unless to modify the stock air filter to fit the Weber you loose the ATC (air temperature control) for cooler weather running. Generally everyone says positive things about this swap. It will never pass smog if you were in California.

 

Beware cheap knock offs from China or w/e. Contact Pierce Manifolds for a genuine Weber conversion kit that has everything needed. I think still below $300. Select one with electric choke and idle cut solenoid.

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On 3/16/2023 at 8:30 AM, datzenmike said:

Small positive increase in power. Most Webers are compared to the old old troublesome Hitachi they replace, so they are somewhat exaggerated. The Weber is much simpler with fewer things to go wrong but unless to modify the stock air filter to fit the Weber you loose the ATC (air temperature control) for cooler weather running. Generally everyone says positive things about this swap. It will never pass smog if you were in California.

 

Beware cheap knock offs from China or w/e. Contact Pierce Manifolds for a genuine Weber conversion kit that has everything needed. I think still below $300. Select one with electric choke and idle cut solenoid.

Thanks

 

 My truck is pretty gutless right now. I'm sure it needs more tweaking and a new Vacuum Advance unit.

 

 I bought new plugs off Amazon. They should be here soon.

 

 I think a lot of the power is being eaten up by the new 30x9.50 Mudders! 

 

PICS.... https://flic.kr/s/aHBqjAwmak

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6 hours ago, datzenmike said:

Beware counterfeit NGK plugs on Amazon.

 

Yes 30" tires do not help where the stock ones are 26"

 How does one tell if they are Counterfeit ?

 

 4" is a huge difference. Huge power sucker for sure..... but they look awesome. PO had them installed right before I bought it.

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 Truck is still dieseling occasionally. Not everytime I shut it off but enough.

 

 I'm wondering if I "may" have lost an O-ring or Gasket when I removed the Idle Shut-off solenoid. I was careful not to lose the spring....  Is there an O-ring and a round gasket that goes with the Idle Shut-off solenoid ?  

 

 I saw a New Idle Shut-off solenoid on Ebay for $65. Anyone know where I can find one cheaper ?

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1 hour ago, Yinzer said:

 How does one tell if they are Counterfeit ?

 

 4" is a huge difference. Huge power sucker for sure..... but they look awesome. PO had them installed right before I bought it.

The info is out there, but even with that it's hard to tell. Last time I looked mostly it was based on some of the info on the box and the printing on the plug itself.. it's better to go to an authorized seller like autozone so you know for sure....

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1 hour ago, Yinzer said:

 Truck is still dieseling occasionally. Not everytime I shut it off but enough.

 

 

 

Other causes of 'run on' or dieseling not caused by idle cut solenoid...

 

Choke on or part on, fast idle cam stuck.

Idle too high

Carburetor flooding

BCDD not turning off properly

 

 

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9 hours ago, datzenmike said:

 

Other causes of 'run on' or dieseling not caused by idle cut solenoid...

 

Choke on or part on, fast idle cam stuck.

Idle too high

Carburetor flooding

BCDD not turning off properly

 

 

The engine is idling a bit to high still.... around 1100 RPMs. I haven't found how to get it down. Idle on carb set low as it can go.

 

The carb does spew back a good bit of fuel when it does diesel.

 

 Not sure about the BCDD... where is it ? All the Emission parts were deleted by the PO. 

 

 I'm not sure the Idle Solenoid is wired right to work correctly. It's wired directly to this wire of the Electric Choke.

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52742955115_a9892e5c85_c.jpg

 

BCDD is there on the left side of carburetor has a round black rubber plug that you pry off. Under is a screw. Turn a couple of turns counter clockwise to decrease the sensitivity.

 

Also look down the secondary with a flashlight and make sure it is fully closed all the way

 

 

Pe6vtj2.jpg

 

Find the fast idle cam it's below the idle cut solenoid. Hold throttle slightly open to release the interlock and close the choke flap. The fast idle cam should lift up into this position pictured above. When the choke is opened the cam drops down out of the way

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1 hour ago, datzenmike said:

52742955115_a9892e5c85_c.jpg

 

BCDD is there on the left side of carburetor has a round black rubber plug that you pry off. Under is a screw. Turn a couple of turns counter clockwise to decrease the sensitivity.

 

Also look down the secondary with a flashlight and make sure it is fully closed all the way

 

 

Pe6vtj2.jpg

 

Find the fast idle cam it's below the idle cut solenoid. Hold throttle slightly open to release the interlock and close the choke flap. The fast idle cam should lift up into this position pictured above. When the choke is opened the cam drops down out of the way

Cool. Thank you. Will do as soon as possible.

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All checks out ok. Still dieseling. Truck left me stranded twice in the past week. Once at oil change place. Wouldn't start after oil change. Cranked but no start. A couple Oil changers pushed me out of the garage, i popped the clutch in 2nd gear and it fired right up. Why would it start popping the clutch and not using the starter ?? 

 

2nd time I needed to get it towed back home.

 

 In both cases the carb flooded out aftet dieseling. It backfires through the carb and a large amount of fuel spits up. ??? Whats going on here ??

 

 BTW, I bought another Anti Dieseling Solenoid of Ebay. Should be here by the end of this week.

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3 hours ago, datzenmike said:

The intake side plug actually faces the exhaust valve so they use a colder #6 plug. The exhaust side plug points right at the intake valve and runs cooler and because of this they run a warmer #5 plug. A colder plug is not as self cleaning and a hotter plug.

 

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There is often an exchange of air back and forth with lots of spitting. You should avoid dieseling by shutting off in gear and holding the brake while letting the clutch out to stall the engine.

 

Is this the carburetor that doesn't have the glass window in the front? The replacement Chinese carburetor???

 

 

 

I can't believe so many symptoms from the battery touching the hood. Many or none are not even electrical in nature. 

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On 3/29/2023 at 8:02 AM, datzenmike said:

There is often an exchange of air back and forth with lots of spitting. You should avoid dieseling by shutting off in gear and holding the brake while letting the clutch out to stall the engine.

 

Is this the carburetor that doesn't have the glass window in the front? The replacement Chinese carburetor???

 

 

 

I can't believe so many symptoms from the battery touching the hood. Many or none are not even electrical in nature. 

Yes, Chinese carb. No window. I believe i may have lost the small rubber O ring on the tip of the Anti Dieseling Solenoid. Cheapest solenoid i can find is $75. 

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I've been stahling the engine in 2nd gear to shut it down. Still spits fuel up out the carb and floods. Cant restart it. 

 

 I said screw it and bought another carburetor. Should be here soon.

 

 Still need a new vacuum advance since PO broke nipple off for the hose. Can't find a replacement anywhere. Hoping to find a Used distributor with one on it already. 

 

 What model year distributor will interchange with my 1986 ?

 

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