BRAKES NOT WORKING CORRECTLY STILL

[22350]

18 hours ago, datzenmike said:

 On most or all? Datsuns of late 60's and 70's there are at least three parts to the slider. (the 510 uses 4, the 710 uses 3 and 4 depending if Tokico or Nabco) It's very snug when installed.

 

Meant to ask... on the one's I'm familiar with the clips are curved and have to be driven in under tension

So I found someone that had four new shim kits and they are in the mail.

 

Hopefully this solves the clunking

 

so the order is:

1. shim

2. up curved clip

3. flat clip

??

[22350]

So, I will let everyone know how this works out soon....

[22350]

sis this the correct order for the brake shims

[datzenmike]

Flip the far right one around and the other two will interlock together into it. The right one has turned up ends and the tabs on the other two will clip into place and be held under tension.

[22350]

5 hours ago, datzenmike said:

Flip the far right one around and the other two will interlock together into it. The right one has turned up ends and the tabs on the other two will clip into place and be held under tension.

Well, the new clips stopped the clunking.  Thanks for your help

[datzenmike]

[22350]

Just when i thought I was done.....

 

OK.... more brake fun

Brake drums in the rear were a bit too tight, but I would only notice drag in the morning.

Today, when I tried to take off, they were dragging. I jacked the rear up and losened them. as I was pumping to center the shoes, the master cyclinder ran out of fluid.

I topped it off and cracked the fitting on the tube, so make sure there was no air.

 

The brake peddle was really low, but working. As I was driving, I had to punch the brakes hard. The peddle stuck at the top of the travel and i almost ran into the car in front of me.

 

I bled all the brakes and readjusted the rears.

 

When I punch the peddle with force, the master cyclinder still would bind,

 

I removed the master cyclinder and took it apart. looks fine, but I have a question about the check valve. It has one side with multiple holes and the other side has a single hole. Which side faces up towards the brake fitting?

I have attached a picture of a 520 kit. It is a bit different, but but similar

 

[22350]

15 hours ago, 22350 said:

Just when i thought I was done.....

 

OK.... more brake fun

Brake drums in the rear were a bit too tight, but I would only notice drag in the morning.

Today, when I tried to take off, they were dragging. I jacked the rear up and losened them. as I was pumping to center the shoes, the master cyclinder ran out of fluid.

I topped it off and cracked the fitting on the tube, so make sure there was no air.

 

The brake peddle was really low, but working. As I was driving, I had to punch the brakes hard. The peddle stuck at the top of the travel and i almost ran into the car in front of me.

 

I bled all the brakes and readjusted the rears.

 

When I punch the peddle with force, the master cyclinder still would bind,

 

I removed the master cyclinder and took it apart. looks fine, but I have a question about the check valve. It has one side with multiple holes and the other side has a single hole. Which side faces up towards the brake fitting?

I have attached a picture of a 520 kit. It is a bit different, but but similar

 

bump @datzenmike  

 

[22350]

Figured out the issue...... with the brakes

The rebuild kit was not compatible with the original master cyclinder. The original must use the metal dome and not the rubber check valve.

I switched the check valve cap with the cap from an aftermarket master cylinder I had (no rubber washer on check valve cap). Everything works perfectly now