weber questions

[moparvwfreak]

ok this morning i went out and the damn truck wouldn't start. no spark. swap it back to points but i also decided to swap in my weber since i just rebuilt it. so it starts nice and smooth little low on idle but thats to be expected, so i got the idle up to snuff. now anything over idle it bogs and dies. ideas???

 

 

also do i really need an electric fuel pump to properly run this carb? its a 3236 DGV so everyone knows. i have a pump off the truck i pulled this fromm but i just want confirmation before i go putting holes in my truck for mounting brackets.

 

how would i go about wiring the pump, if needed, so it shuts off in case of an accident?

 

 

thanks guys!

Edited November 25, 2008 by moparvwfreak

[Cuts metal like mad]

not necessary for a weber... But you fuel pump could be bad... Could... But I don't think it's that, check for vacuum leaks.

[240ADAM]

I would just leave the stock fuel pump, they flow plenty of gas for your weber. I also think you might have a vacum leak. Is the air/fuel set correctly? Also if you just switched back to points check the gap in the points as well.

[moparvwfreak]

not necessary for a weber... But you fuel pump could be bad... Could... But I don't think it's that, check for vacuum leaks.

 

i hope not. cant afford to deal with that right now. will check. even though theres only like2 lines and all the rest of the gaskets are new.

 

I would just leave the stock fuel pump, they flow plenty of gas for your weber. I also think you might have a vacum leak. Is the air/fuel set correctly? Also if you just switched back to points check the gap in the points as well.

 

i will check them again but i think they are ok.

[datzenmike]

ok this morning i went out and the damn truck wouldn't start. no spark. swap it back to points but i also decided to swap in my weber since i just rebuilt it. so it starts nice and smooth little low on idle but thats to be expected, so i got the idle up to snuff. now anything over idle it bogs and dies. ideas???

 

 

also do i really need an electric fuel pump to properly run this carb? its a 3236 DGV so everyone knows. i have a pump off the truck i pulled this fromm but i just want confirmation before i go putting holes in my truck for mounting brackets.

 

how would i go about wiring the pump, if needed, so it shuts off in case of an accident?

 

 

thanks guys!

 

Whenever you swap in stuff you potentially swap in problems, even new parts. You changed the carb so look no further. Sounds like idle circuit has gas but when the throttle is opened only air goes in and not enough fuel. Probably a plugged jet or no gas going through it. Does the Weber use those small BBs to block holes like the Hitachi? Vacuum advance hose correct

 

Webers are not happy with fuel pressure over 3 lbs. They tend to flood at idle and low speed. This is not your problem but something to watch out for.

 

 

The late 720s had a fuel pump relay that only allowed the electric pump to run during cranking and if there was oil pressure, (engine running) and alternator charging. Loss of alternator charging or oil pressure would shut it off. Easy to wire up. Although not documented in the factory service manual, the module is also reported to include an impact sensor used to remove power to the fuel pump in the case of frontal impact.

Edited November 25, 2008 by datzenmike

[moparvwfreak]

Whenever you swap in stuff you potentially swap in problems, even new parts. You changed the carb so look no further. Sounds like idle circuit has gas but when the throttle is opened only air goes in and not enough fuel. Probably a plugged jet or no gas going through it. Does the Weber use those small BBs to block holes like the Hitachi? Vacuum advance hose correct

 

Webers are not happy with fuel pressure over 3 lbs. They tend to flood at idle and low speed. This is not your problem but something to watch out for.

 

 

thats why i asked about the carb. i didn't see any "BB's" when i had it apart. as far as i can tell the vac advance is hooked up right. its hooked to the port on the VC side of the carb right above the base flange. i am going to try and set it up again. if all else fails i will rip it off and, god forbid, reinstall the hitachi. :mad: i was supposed to deliver a motor this morning and this crap happened. now it will be delivered to night in my pathfinder if all else fails.

 

the fuel pressure issue is why i asked about the fuel pump. i have the electric one with a pressure regulator but i dont want to install it unless i ahve to. keeps things clean ya know. i will look over it again and see whats up. thanks for the info guys! keep it coming!

[datsunfish]

The MAIN problem when you swap on a weber is vacuum leaks. The other problems with a used weber is the fuel pump diaphragm cap can get warped from repeated overtightening and must be completely sealed to pump fuel. Get the float bowl full and hit the lever. Is there a straight stream of fuel?Is it leaching out around the sides of the nozzle? If either of these are your problem get a kit for it. If the fuel pump is not sealing properly you can spread super glue around the edges and the base of the screw heads and that will seal it up but probably not forever.

Get it to run and spray flamable aerosol across the base gaskets,mani gasket and just about everything where air would flow.

Also make sure that the adjustment screw under the secondary linkage is not engaged. Usually easiest if its off but I have seen them engaged before.

[rat tail dragger]

theeee webbber let me tell you some storys about the webber carb well fist put your hands on the carb and see if it wiggles back and forth if it does your base plate is lose take carb off put lock tite on the bolts tighten themdown with a new gasket ,then put carb back on make sure your gasket are good bolt carb back on tighten the 4 bolts down good ,the best way to check if carb has vacuum leak is when its runnin spray w d 40 around the base of the carb if it runs different you have a leak ino im doing it right now and typing with my other finger

[moparvwfreak]

i figured it out. i was being a dumbass. i forgot to set the float. DOH! so i pulled it apart and set that and now, with the exception of a small stumble when i romp on it (damn points!), she runs like a bat outta hell! thanks for the suggestions and there were no vac leaks. :D

[racerx]

no you don't need elec. fuel pump....

[moparvwfreak]

alright. new question. when i installed this i used the cable pull off a hitachi carb so i could run my throttle cable. but it doesn't line up right with the bracket that holds it. its off by about 12 inch. HOW would i go about fixing this. being broke sucks. no $$ for parts. BUT if need be i will fork out the dough to do it as i need this truck running properly.

 

also the throttle has been sticking on it now. ideas???

[Cuts metal like mad]

First question; use a grinder, hammer, vise, pliers... Etc. Some of these or all of the above... You CAN make it work.

 

Second question; you need a throttle return spring, get creative! :D

[moparvwfreak]

First question; use a grinder, hammer, vise, pliers... Etc. Some of these or all of the above... You CAN make it work.

 

Second question; you need a throttle return spring, get creative! :D

 

well i just found out, i get to put my craptastic Hitachi back on so i can rebuild the weber AGAIN. throttle shaft bushings are GONE. as for the return springs i already have 2 and will be adding a 3rd shortly.

[pepesnax]

Honestly running too many return springs depending on how heavy they are will cause binding and wear out bushings quickly.

[RustyRat4x4]

If the throttle cable pull that comes off of the stock carb for the Weber is tightened down too tight it will cause a sticky throttle not to mention wearing out the throttle shaft bushings.. also tighten up the nut on the cable pull over the throttle shaft just until it doesn't wiggle then bend over the locking tang of the washer behind it to keep the nut from backing off.. not to tight though..