FrankRizzo Posted September 19, 2017 Report Share Posted September 19, 2017 The KA24DE in my 620 was bogging and sputtering over 4k RPM's, so I ordered a new MAF from RockAuto and it fixed that problem...but it caused another couple of issues. Now when its cold it idles kinda rough until warm, frequently dies when warm at idle, and after running for about 10 mins, it totally bogs and hesitates until I shut it off and restart it. I suppose I could replace the TPS and IACV, but I did not have these problems before replacing the MAF, so im not sure that will fix anything. The PO's electromotive fuel pump was stating to make so much noise I could really hear it in the truck so I replaced it last weekend with a GSL 293 and Wix. That did not fix anything (but it's nice and quiet now). The other thing I dont understand is how do I pull the CEL codes off the ECU if I dont have a Check Engine light? I'd love to know what the codes are but dont know how. Any help is appreciated. Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted September 19, 2017 Report Share Posted September 19, 2017 I don't know much about the ka, but if it's pre obd plugs.. there is a way to check on the factory module.... Try this link... http://my.prostreetonline.com/2014/08/19/how-to-read-nissan-ecu-error-codes/ Quote Link to comment
FrankRizzo Posted September 22, 2017 Author Report Share Posted September 22, 2017 Thanks. I dont recall seeing anything like that on my ECU, but its worth crawling under there and looking. . Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted September 22, 2017 Report Share Posted September 22, 2017 I have seen other ways but I'm not sure they apply... but you would need a check engine light to read the flashes.... And you would jump 2 wires to retrieve the code.... Have you tried the dealer? Maybe they have someone that may know how. Quote Link to comment
Draker Posted September 22, 2017 Report Share Posted September 22, 2017 I had to do this last night on a KA24E. Very simple. Change ECU to mode 3, watch for flashes. Green light is your first digit, red is your second. Change modes by turning the pot screw fully clockwise, lights will begin to flash in groups. 1, 12, 123, 1234, 12345. Wait until they flash 3 times and then move the screw back fully counter clockwise. You are now in mode 3. If all is well you will get code 44. 4 green flashes and 4 red flashes. Anything else will be an error code. It will start to flash each error code out one by one. To clear ECU codes, go to mode 4 using the same method above. Quote Link to comment
FrankRizzo Posted September 24, 2017 Author Report Share Posted September 24, 2017 Holy fook Draker. The headlight on my vacuum cleaner is burned out...HID or LED? This totally above my head.... I'll drop my ECU tomorrow and see if it even has a screw/light on the side, Mine is a DE if it makes any diff. I dont remember anything but the plug for the wiring harness, but to be honest I was not looking. Would be sweet if it would give me just the tip * on what is going on... thanks! Quote Link to comment
FrankRizzo Posted September 25, 2017 Author Report Share Posted September 25, 2017 Thanks Draker ^ . I dropped the ECU and it's different for the DOHC motor, but it does have a LED and screw to put it in test mode. Your p0st made me google and sure enough -plenty of vids on youtube on how to pull the codes. So I cleared the error codes (the MAF was one) and it runs like a champ! I think I needed to clear the errors so it knows a new part was installed. :thumbup: 1 Quote Link to comment
Draker Posted September 25, 2017 Report Share Posted September 25, 2017 Glad you got it worked out. With the code it was probably in a fail safe or limp mode. 1 Quote Link to comment
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