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It's ALIVE!!......well, sort of....


Slick68

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OK, this truck has been sitting for a couple years or so. I picked up back in January, but haven't had much time to mess with it. I finally took some time and got it running this evening. I robbed the battery from the wife's Mustang, hooked it up and git to run. The choke doesn't work, so I was using a wrench to hold the choke down to get it started. It didn't want to stay running at all at first, but after a few adjustments on the carb, I was able to get it to idle. Well at least until I tried to put the trans in gear. It won't idle in gear, and it won't hardy pull it's own weight before sputtering and stalling. 

 

The trans fluid is a tad low. How temperamental are the auto transmissions in these trucks as far as proper fluid level?

 

Here's a couple videos of it starting and one idling. Sorry about the idle video going sideways. Apparently, I don't know how to operate a smartphone. LOL

 

 

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If low just top it up. Automatics are maintenance free, there's not much you can service so just look after it.

 

It should idle in gear but you need a good solid idle and high intake vacuum to do this. I would suggest the following as a tune up...

 

Set the valve lash with the engine hot.

 

Clean the plugs and inspect wires, rotor and cap. Replace what needs replacing. If it does not have NGK BPR6ES on the intake side and BPR5ES on the exhaust side... get new plugs. I hear a miss in the video.. could be ignition, valve or carb.

 

Set the timing but only if the engine is idling properly at around 800. Maybe adjust the carb as much as you can first...

 

You have a carburetor at least. Some '86 have EFI. There is no idle mixture adjustment  as it is set at the factory and the screw sealed. You can drill a small hole in the aluminum plug and screw in a wood screw to pop the plug out. Now you can make adjustments.  Turn idle as low as possible. Turn mixture screw in and out to find the fastest smooth idle. Likely idle speed has gone up so turn it back down and keep repeating this untill you cannot improve the idle quality and the idle RPMs are around 800.

 

If you cannot get the idle below 1,200 without stalling the idle cut may be at fault or the idle mix passage blocked. (enough for now)

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Ok, I've held off spending any money on the truck until I had the title. The PO finally found it and brought it to me. I've ordered all new NGK plugs and wire set and cap & rotor. Is there a tutorial or video somewhere on how to set the valve lash? I'm eager to get the truck at least driveable to know what we do/don't have.

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Collect the wrench and screw driver needed for this job plus the 0.013" feeler gauge. To set, loosen lock nut, turn adjustment screw with screw driver until a 0.013" feeler gauge will just fit between rocker arm and cam. Tighten lock nut and check with feeler gauge one last time. Perhaps practice finding and setting the TDC before hand.

 

 

 

Valve lash should be set with engine hot. So warm up for 15 or 20 min. Perhaps have valve cover screws loosened and removed.

 

Set engine to TDC. With valve cover off, make sure the number one cylinder cam lobes are both pointing downward. That would be 8 and 4 o'clock as viewed from the front. You can also line up the notch on the rear of the crank pulley with the zero on the timing scale. Close enough is good enough.

 

There are eight valves to set with one at the front and eight at the rear.

 

Set 1, 2, 4 and 6. 

 

Turn engine exactly ONE turn and bring the notch on the crank pulley up to the zero on the timing scale.

 

Set 3, 5, 7, and 8

 

You are done, and fast enough that the engine has not cooled down. This is far easier and faster than bumping the engine with the starter.

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