Outta_OC Posted February 27, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 27, 2016 I know 32/36 dgav carbs. by the sound I think the carb is fine. From the sound in the video you think its timing and not the carb good sir? Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted February 27, 2016 Report Share Posted February 27, 2016 timming is ezer to ck for me. As I would swap out a distributor just to make sure as I have spares. You most likely don't. If I ck the dist myself and feel confident its good then I would look at the carb. as most might be well iver 25years old and just plane worn out. But you drive this. Does it seem fine in normal driving? these this happen when more or less you putting it on the macanical 2ndry side of the carb. this all helps whats the timming?????? looking closer at the photo you have a 32/36 as its above the 33 number. make sure the choke flap is fully open. I seen where they are cosed and not letting air in on the top end rpm range. 1 Quote Link to comment
Outta_OC Posted February 27, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 27, 2016 I dont have a timing light at my current location and the distributor is tight. I have the carb half apart currently, going to clean the beast out and go from there. I should have done your test with my hand before dissassembling - will let you know how it goes soon. Quote Link to comment
Outta_OC Posted February 27, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 27, 2016 Sheesh look how dirty that thing is...^^^ "Two minutes Turkish..." uploading a video for you hainz Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted February 27, 2016 Report Share Posted February 27, 2016 to me right off the bat. Timming then adjust the mixture screw at the base of carb till its a little smoother running. to me most webers don't need to be taken apart. unless the floot floods out needle valve. accel pump only needs fix from the side. last guys truvk his timming was like -5deg after TDC. I don't know how it got that bad and he was running it for months 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted February 27, 2016 Report Share Posted February 27, 2016 It's not the greatest, but I think you should be able to hear the problem. The video is 2nd to 3rd to 4th gear Does not sound like it's bogging at all. Sound good but has a slight miss when revved. Clean and gap the plugs. Check the valve lash. Timing. 1 Quote Link to comment
Outta_OC Posted February 28, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 28, 2016 Everything was clean. I soaked up that has and blasted the jets both ways into a towel and checked the fuel filter in the carb and blasted it with carb cleaner for good measure. - problem persists :) Monday I'll stop by Mike's Z shop in Whittier and see if they can check my timing.... Ugh... Although my grandpa probably has a timing light... I'll watch some vids/read up tonight and check there tomorrow... Now what to do about that 40 dollar deposit I left for ... Whatever I ordered this morning... I need to learn Spanish 1 Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted February 28, 2016 Report Share Posted February 28, 2016 told ya L motor owner need to buy a timming light!!!!!!!!!!!!! learn how to adjust the mixture along with the timming. shit just advance the dist rightnow and see if its better. I always ck the valve lash on L motor if you don't know the history while valve cover open ck the cam timming marks buy NGKwire sparkplug wire set. shit buy 2 if free shipping on amazon. make sure no water under dist cap 2 Quote Link to comment
Doctor510 Posted February 28, 2016 Report Share Posted February 28, 2016 Rough start up showed that the choke was not closing. If a cold start, that's bad, hot start OK. Check really close that there are no vacuum leaks around the adapter, I am not a fan of the tall adapter but they work. Your described stumble when shifting could be either a wimpy accelerator pump diaphragm or too small an idle jet. Be sure to check the carburetor filter, it lives in the big brass nut under the fuel inlet. 1 Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted March 1, 2016 Report Share Posted March 1, 2016 I assume you still have a PCV valve from the crankcase. Not that this is related but hate to find out your crank case is plugged as I see you intake manifold has the cut out on side like its missing the stock egr stuff so I assume a plate it bolted to it. Quote Link to comment
Outta_OC Posted March 2, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 2, 2016 So... I'm a rookie. The spark plugs were tight at 5 am the other morning... But they were totally buggered beyond anything I've ever seen before... I've only had the truck a year... Also... Ffs... I fished around with my finger but the back half of the thermostat now lives somewhere in my cooling system and has for quite some time... I have to pull it apart again tomorrow because the I got the three holed gasket instead of the two... I gooped it up with red rtv until then and went and bought the right gasket but gotta wait for her to cool off... Quote Link to comment
Outta_OC Posted March 2, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 2, 2016 And yes... That's oil on the plug. But the problem originally posted about is fixed... Only now I know my thermostat is floating around in a million pieces and there's oil on my plugs... All I know about that is, it's bad... Quote Link to comment
Outta_OC Posted March 2, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 2, 2016 I'm not sure about the pcv valve. From my conversations with the original owner he took all the smog stuff off... But there is a slight language barrier. Quote Link to comment
Outta_OC Posted March 2, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 2, 2016 Im hoping the original owner clipped the back half of the thermostat off... Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted March 2, 2016 Report Share Posted March 2, 2016 Im hoping the original owner clipped the back half of the thermostat off... I'm not sure about the pcv valve. From my conversations with the original owner he took all the smog stuff off... But there is a slight language barrier. Previous Owners are the stupidest fucks born. Really. The thermostat parts are not going to do any harm if they are in the head or top of rad, but if someone cut them off.. what directly the fuck was the idiotic reason??? Without a thermostat the engine never warms up. They are designed to work around 185F (give or take) Likely most of your problems are OP related. The block vent pipe comes out from behind the exhaust manifold to a curved hose connected to the intake just below the carb. Is it there and connected up??? Quote Link to comment
Outta_OC Posted March 2, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 2, 2016 It has a header ... There is some giant blue hose I've seen in pictures of other datsuns, coming off and ... I don't know where exactly it goes... I don't remember anything going to the carb other than the vacuum from dist and fuel line... I could be wrong Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted March 2, 2016 Report Share Posted March 2, 2016 Doesn't go to the carb. The block vent pipe comes out from behind the exhaust manifold to a curved hose connected to the intake just below the carb. Is it there and connected up??? The hose is about 1". Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted March 2, 2016 Report Share Posted March 2, 2016 I wouldnt say the plugs are that bad. but what Im saying about the crank case vent ai hate to see soem Motherfucker plugged it up and didnt run a it open or a PVC valve to the lower intale otherwise there is a pressure issue and might make the truck burn more oil than it should. be honest Datsun guys are not the brightest. The shit I seen over the years. is it a SECRET what was the fix on the bogging?????? Quote Link to comment
Outta_OC Posted March 2, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 2, 2016 The spark plugs fixed the "bogging" issue! Hah 1 Quote Link to comment
Outta_OC Posted March 2, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 2, 2016 I do burn/lose a lot of oil due to a crack in the timing cover the PO mentioned... Uploading some pics now... May not be able to post until 2:30 ish tho Quote Link to comment
Outta_OC Posted March 2, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 2, 2016 I think the 1" hose that comes from the block in between the exhaust ports for #3 and 4 cylinders is the hose that's being referred to - it's there but just dumps to nothing by the collector of the exhaust Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted March 2, 2016 Report Share Posted March 2, 2016 if it is open vent that's ok. sparkplugs??? I fixed many his way and if it hapans again then its a issue if not then don't worry about it. fucking run it!!!!!!!!!!!!!! 1 Quote Link to comment
Outta_OC Posted March 2, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 2, 2016 Yeah it's running great after the new plugs and working thermostat... Hah. Revs all the way through now. The plugs were gapped at .39 I think... I guess I should pull them and gap to .32? Quote Link to comment
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