New to Forum - 1986 720 Regular Cab

[Seaway]

Yeah, I should have mentioned that I did that last night with no noticeable effect. I sprayed every connection I could get to. It runs well and sounds great and then it lopes and stumbles.

[xsdg]

How've things been coming along?

 

A belated update here, but have you tried unplugging the EGR to see if that causes your idle to even out?  EGR and dizzy vacuum advance are the two main things that are actively disabled until the truck gets up to temperature.  This isn't to say that you should leave the EGR unplugged, but that if that's the issue, you know where to keep digging.

 

Also, I'm guessing you've checked this, but your truck is coming up to temp?  When I bought mine off Craigslist, it had a stuck-open thermostat, which caused it to want to die at stop lights.

[Seaway]

How've things been coming along?

 

A belated update here, but have you tried unplugging the EGR to see if that causes your idle to even out?  EGR and dizzy vacuum advance are the two main things that are actively disabled until the truck gets up to temperature.  This isn't to say that you should leave the EGR unplugged, but that if that's the issue, you know where to keep digging.

 

Also, I'm guessing you've checked this, but your truck is coming up to temp?  When I bought mine off Craigslist, it had a stuck-open thermostat, which caused it to want to die at stop lights.

 

I swapped out the stock Hitachi carb this weekend and dropped in a Weber 32/36.  Idle is at about 750ish and is rock solid.  The increased power is nice as well.  I deleted all the emissions related hoses including the charcoal canisters and everything seems to be working very well.  Overall it was well worth the money, though it did cost me more than I paid for the truck... 

 

I have also installed new Ford Pinto front shocks (truck is lowered 2.5 - 3 inches), new sway bar end links and a new idler arm.  I have new ball joints sitting in my house ready to go on and I am going to be replacing the steering center link and tie rod ends as well.  Rear shocks need to be done as they are blown too.  There are a few other little odds and ends that need to be taken care of, a hole in the passenger footwell needs to be patched, and I need to swap out the stock headlights and do an H4 conversion as they are far too dim for my tastes.  But for a couple hundred more bucks and a couple hundred more hours, I should have a nice little daily driver I can use to haul stuff back and forth to the boat.  

 

I have already had three offers to sell the truck, which is interesting.  

 

[bobbyanthony1965]

I have a 1986 nissan 720 that will run all day in Park at home but when I take it to the street to drive it falls dead like it's running out of gas, I have cleaned the fuel tank, replaced fuel filter, fuel pump, carb and it still did the same so then I started thinking maby it is a fire problem instead of fuel problem so I replaced electronic module under distance cap also replaced cap, rotor spark plugs and it's still doing the same thing.

[bobbyanthony1965]

was thinking about changing ignition coils but I've spent all my money already so please help

[datzenmike]

First of all welcome to Ratsun.

 

Next, it's best if you open your own thread in 720 http://community.ratsun.net/forum/53-720/ so that answers and questions for your problem do not interfere with Seaway's thread, who's you are now in. Far upper right side of page is START NEW TOPIC in black. Click it an go. 

 

To answer your question... STOP buying parts for it an deduce what is wrong from the clues. Throwing parts at it is expensive and today's parts are worse than the used parts you are replacing. You may even put a bad part on your truck and added to the problems.

 

Don't buy coils, pull one intake and one exhaust side plug wire off and put an old plug in the ends. Lay on a grounded surface and crank the engine over with the starter. Is there spark??? If yes, the coils are working and you just saved yourself $40.

[Seaway]

My truck is still running well after the Weber conversion. I do have a whistle or a screech (like belt noise) that I need to chase down, but it only happens in gear under load, so it is hard to identify. The belt is tight so I am leaning towards some sort of leak at the intake.

 

I replaced the ball joints today and was shocked by how bad they were. The steering is now much better and less "catchy" and it is overall much more pleasant to drive. Changing out the ball joints was straight forward, I had to take an angle grinder and air hammer to one of the castle nuts on the upper ball joint and nothing else I tried would break it loose.

 

Still need to do the steering link, tie rods and torsion bar bushings as well as convert the headlights to halogen. When it's all said and done I am going to have a great little truck, mostly rebuilt, for about a grand.

[bobbyanthony1965]

was thinking about changing ignition coils but I've spent all my money already so please help

[datzenmike]

The 720 came with halogen lamps. However halogen lamps get dimmer with age as metal transfers from the filament to the inside of the glass. 

[Seaway]

Sorry, I should have said convert to H4 lights instead of sealed beams!

[datzenmike]

http://www.myhellalights.com/index.php/products/auxiliary-lamps/sealed-beam-conversion-headlamps/4-x6-rectangular-conversion-headlamps/

 

Yes indeed.

 

Avoid those blue tinted bulbs. Any color coating reduces light output and the point of good headlamps is seeing.

[Seaway]

Those are the headlights I am leaning towards. With regular h4 bulbs, nothing blue tinted or anything crazy. I just want good, safe light so I can see and be seen. The goal with this truck is for a safe around town hauler. It's currently loaded up with 20 gallons of used oil I need to take to the parts store to dump.

 

I also need rear shocks, the ones on the truck now are blown.

[Seaway]

Got the new H4 conversion headlights installed. Just need to wait till it's dark to see how they work. They seem good in my garage. I wired in new pigtails so the brights work as they should.

[Seaway]

Installed the new KYB Gas A Just rear shocks today. The difference is amazing. No more bouncing around and the ride height came up a bit as well. I also tightened the steering box which made a huge improvement.

 

This weekend I am going to redo the exhaust as it is currently running under the frame and is far too low. I have a Thrush welded muffler I will be putting in which will hopefully sound okay.

[Seaway]

Rerouted my exhaust today and ran it up over the frame in the rear. I welded everything except the connections to the muffler. The Thrush muffler sounds good, but is it louder than I thought it would be. The tone is deep, but it may be too much. Luckily it will be easy to swap out if I choose to.

 

I need to figure out a more rigid rear hanger as the one I used allows for more movement than I want.

 

Next project is trying to solve the leaking windshield seal.