Engine bogs/stutters at High and full throttle

[Anonymous Waffle]

Note: Standard L16, with a 210 head (runs 195 psi?) (Possibly a peanut head, idk), and a standard downdraft hitachi carb.

 

Hey guys, im back, and still have some big issues with the motor. We got the water pump replaced, and got a new replacement radiator. Did a quick test drive, and it drives better than it did before, but it still has bad stutters and bogs, and some real loud backfires. Now, we do know that the rebuilt carburetor has a slight issue, but it shouldnt be this prominent of a problem. 

 

Heres a video of it stuttering and struggling to keep up at high throttle.

 

 

Now, we had a quick thought, that something else might be pulling the engine down and guessed the alternator could have a bad bearing? So we unhooked the fan belt for a quick test and sure enough, IT RAN BETTER. Unusual.. We did a quick test drive with the alternator cables unhooked, and it drove much better, and barely stuttered at all. 

 

Here's a quick video with the fan belt unhooked at high throttle. (sorry its sideways)

 

 

We went and picked up a new alternator, installed it and went for a quick drive... It still stutters and backfires. Weird. It runs really good without the alternator on, but runs bad with it on. Again, we unhooked the alternator and it runs really well. WTF? We did some voltage checks and everything seems fine, and we have a guess that the coil could be bad. We did a quick test to run straight 12 volts straight to the coil, and it runs like pure and utter shit. Shouldn't 12 volts normally allow the coil to run for a short time normally? 

 

Some help would be appreciated  :confused:

[banzai510(hainz)]

if this a point distributor and Pointcoil, the points will arch out if the ballast resisitor is not in series with the circut. Coil will get HOT also. If not ballast the higher rpm then it will cut out faster as the points under the distributor cap

 

1st vid I hear the stumble then seems to correct itself

Like the 2nd dary side of carb was stuck open causing the stumble

 

 

Why rev the shit out of the engine?

Need to run the vid longer I cant get a feel for the proplem

[Anonymous Waffle]

I think I need to go pickup a new oe style coil, and (maybe) a smaller voltage regulator? Im running the bigger style voltage regulator from a Z, im not sure if that could be a small part of the problem or not. 

 

 

Why rev the shit out of the engine?
Need to run the vid longer I cant get a feel for the proplem

 

 

We rev'd high since thats the big problem we have. Driving it on the road, you cant drive it at all, cant accelerate, unless we have the alternator disconnected. Anything above half throttle will just stutter, and driving around like that more than often killed the engine.
 

[banzai510(hainz)]

I cant tell your disributor POINT or EI set up but on my 510 it would cut out on the top and find out my dist shaft bushing was worn. the points could open just by moving the shaft side to side.

I went to a Pertronix and a another dist that was solid. that worked.

Then my 521 had a Pertronix and that bushing got worn out also making high end cut out even with a magnetic pick up. Swapped to another tighter distributor and was again good

 

Im not a Z expert on the Volt regs. But if its showing above 13.5 volts with no load I would think its good.

 

Maybe with the volt reg disconnected your giving a slightly lower volage so it dont arch out but Im fucking Hail marrying it now

[Anonymous Waffle]

I cant tell your disributor POINT or EI set up but on my 510 it would cut out on the top and find out my dist shaft bushing was worn. the points could open just by moving the shaft side to side.

I went to a Pertronix and a another dist that was solid. that worked.

 

 

Would you reckon this is shaft play? 

 

Sorry im not that educated into electronic ignition stuff, so any kind of information is new and useful 

[banzai510(hainz)]

what your showin me is fine. its the shaft side to side. what you did is just the rotation of the advance.

But looking what you did i think your ok.

 

take the rotor off and push the shaft side to side. if alot it could be it

But what I see i didnt see that but your turing the rotor

 

 

 

what I see is you have a dual point distribor with the 2nd set of points removed.

Which is OK. You have the main set which is near the valve cover is correct. that wire should go righ to the - side of the coil.

 

Now did you try timming the motor to say 7-10 degs BTDC with a timming light?

 

 

Im thinking does this do it in in 3rd gear?

 

the org coclor 1st set of point wire is blk/red. Wheres the wires?

 

 

disregard what I said about the 3rd gear switch as this was in nuetral

[datzenmike]

I think I need to go pickup a new oe style coil, and (maybe) a smaller voltage regulator? Im running the bigger style voltage regulator from a Z, im not sure if that could be a small part of the problem or not. 

 

A Z car regulator won't cause that problem. However saying that the Z car regulator is larger is odd. The car and truck voltage regulators are basically the same part with the plug maybe being different over the years. Physically they are very similar if not identical in size.

 

Post a picture of your external regulator. Maybe it's from something else?.

[Anonymous Waffle]

I picked up a new oe style coil and another ballast resistor, so I'll see if this helped solve the problem or not.

 

 

 

A Z car regulator won't cause that problem. However saying that the Z car regulator is larger is odd. The car and truck voltage regulators are basically the same part with the plug maybe being different over the years. Physically they are very similar if not identical in size.

 

Post a picture of your external regulator. Maybe it's from something else?.

I have no clue if the style of the regulator changed, since ive seen multiple pics of the smaller style regulator from 510's. 

 

[banzai510(hainz)]

That Voltreg looks fine its the old style point type. However I seen some BAD USA made ones sold under the Echlin Brand that tend to over volt over 15volts and cause the batter to overcharge where the goo/acid come out and ruins the paint. I went with a solid state unit Wells brand. Sold thry Autozone and Carquest

 

 

Its possible(anything is I guess) the coil is bad. But why it works when the volt reg is disconnected?

 

 

 

You ck with a volt meter what you getting at the batter with the old volt reg?????? Thats would be a start.

[Anonymous Waffle]

The car runs better when the Alternator is disconnected, not the volt reg. So my solid guess is the coil.

[banzai510(hainz)]

Pull the alternator and have it cked..If that what you say. You said before the volt reg.

Now its the alternator. Maybe its bad??????

 

I lay money now its NOT the coil

 

 

maybe soembody put a worng type alt in there. a IR type insread of a external volt reg type

 

Take photos and test the voltage otherwise Im giving up

 

 

take photos of the alternator and since I asked you put a volt meter on there and measure the voltage when running and see what it says. steady it wonders or maybe its loosen voltage and cutting out.

 

This is a simple fix

[Anonymous Waffle]

Lol I replaced the coil and the ballast resistor and it runs fine now. I think the coil was pure and utter shit. I still have a light stutter but I can tell thats the small carburetor issue we've had for a little while. I gotta take apart that carb again and see if somethings misplaced or we didn't put the right jets in there. Also the secondary likes to get a little stuck once in a while... Time to rebuild :)

[banzai510(hainz)]

25yrs and I never had a coil go bad in 4 cars

 

you still never cked the voltage

 

 

shit changing the sparkplugs/plugwires has fixed cars for me