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Just picked this up today for 100 bucks was thinking it might fit my 320 anybody know what it is ?Nissan on the block and valve cover instead of Datsun .But sure looks close to my 1300 motor.which is blowing oil out the exhast thinking it might be a valve seal . prolly cost more to fix that than swap this in.It looks to be rebuilt. recently any thoughts advice.

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Sorry spent 1 hr trying to post image from my photobucket acct ,copy url try to tap link comes up past link but just locks up......ill try later ..any eayser way why cant I just past picks from my own pictures on my pc and forget photobucket

 

I click on the image icon above.

image propertys box comes up I past the image url then box just sits there and doesn't upload.

 

Anyways looks like the a series as motor mount location is different and has aluminum head and a fancy carb.

guess it wont be a direct bolt up to me 320.

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I have never liked photo bucket. Here is what I did for that car show thread. Made a yahoo email account then made a fb account. Loaded the pictures and then brought them here. Make an obscure name less a chance some one else might use your pictures if that is an issue with you.

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Sorry, the forum is for discussion only. Buying and selling is allowed only in our classified section. Here's a link.... http://community.ratsun.net/classifieds/category/5-drivetrain/?sort_key=date_added&sort_order=desc

 

If you can find the front bell housing and probably the flex plate and the torque converter for an A series I'll give you a 3N71B automatic from a 620 truck. I have three autos laying around.

 

 

Try posting here... http://community.ratsun.net/topic/43553-canby-pick-up-for-sale-items/page-2 and I can pick it up and bring back to the island.

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Sorry bout that been awile since I have been on here .Its just that I found that motor so getting kinda motivated to mayby put the auto running gear set up together for the 320 so its easyer for the grandkids to drive .The granddaughter is in love with it but only drives an auto.Figgur that way it will stay on the road longer.And yaya sure they can learn to drive a stick bla bla I just think auto would be easyer...to each there own eh....So where bouts you on the island Mike Im in PA .Have owned my 320 for 20 years or longer.Collecter plates.I would be interested in the trannys if you could help me out with the other stuff needed as you seem to be fairly well connected in the Datsun world.Yould like to check out your junk one of these days if its on the island.Den

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Den, you're in Port Alice????? You must have to only Datsun north of Sayward then.

 

I'll keep my eyes open for an A series automatic then. The bell housings are removable on the 3N71B automatics so any automatic will do if you have this part. I think the A series are a shorter tail and thus much more harder to find so 'converting' a much more common 'long' 3N71B would be an advantage.

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Ya im in the other asshole of the world Port Alberni.Kidding......it aint so bad since the mill don't stink as much as back in the 70,s

actually a nice place to live just a pain to get to the mainland.

And I have had a steady well paying job for the last 25 years.

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Well picked up a sweet b210 auto to convert my 320 to auto today. It has a  new starter,alternator fuel pump, plugs ,wires.Wanted to show a few picks since I cant seem to post with my photobucket downloaded picassa but when I try and add the ural there is no ural from picassa.anyways its a sweet body and hate to piece it out ...anybody got a rustbucket to trade for this one my only interest is the running gear,shifter mayby pedals.....

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So today doing a little tune up this b210 the kid had the carb rebuilt but it wouldn't run so went to the guys house and got it running half assed put a permit on it and drove er over to the daughters place as my yard is too full of chit.

Anyways later when trying to get it to run better found the blue wire to the auto choke busted off.

Knew I hade an old carb from 20 years ago somewhere in the garage..... searched and woho the rewards of saving old chit has a perfect auto choke so swapped her over and works like a charm ....idles ok but shur would like to gat it adjusted properly any tips on how many turns on idle screw and fuel air screw.anyways next problem is when I put her in drive she starts stumbling and running rough.

Shure wish I could get the photo thing figgerd out so I could post a few on here as I know I like to see photos myself.

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....idles ok but shur would like to gat it adjusted properly any tips on how many turns on idle screw and fuel air screw.anyways next problem is when I put her in drive she starts stumbling and running rough.

Shure wish I could get the photo thing figgerd out so I could post a few on here as I know I like to see photos myself.

 

Before setting the idle mixture, make sure the valve lash and timing is set. Warm up thoroughly. Make sure the choke is fully off and the idle cut solenoid ON or working. Find the idle speed and the idle mixture screws.

 

Turn idle speed down as low as you can but still idle. This will make any changes easier to notice. If it won't easily go lower, no problem, just leave it.

 

Turn the idle mixture screw in or out. The idle will likely improve or get worse, if worse go the other way. You will find that there is about one full turn where the idle is good and it falls off if turned any farther in or out. Turn until you are about in the middle of this good position. Likely the idle speed has gone up and the idle is stronger. Turn the idle speed back down. 

 

Repeat the above to find the strongest smooth idle position position. Again the idle likely will have gone up slightly so turn it back down. Keep repeating the idle mixture adjustment followed by turning the idle speed down until you can no longer improve it and your idle is 750-850 or what ever the factory setting is.

 

You're done.

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Before setting the idle mixture, make sure the valve lash and timing is set. Warm up thoroughly. Make sure the choke is fully off and the idle cut solenoid ON or working. Find the idle speed and the idle mixture screws.

 

Turn idle speed down as low as you can but still idle. This will make any changes easier to notice. If it won't easily go lower, no problem, just leave it.

 

Turn the idle mixture screw in or out. The idle will likely improve or get worse, if worse go the other way. You will find that there is about one full turn where the idle is good and it falls off if turned any farther in or out. Turn until you are about in the middle of this good position. Likely the idle speed has gone up and the idle is stronger. Turn the idle speed back down. 

 

Repeat the above to find the strongest smooth idle position position. Again the idle likely will have gone up slightly so turn it back down. Keep repeating the idle mixture adjustment followed by turning the idle speed down until you can no longer improve it and your idle is 750-850 or what ever the factory setting is.

 

You're done.

thx mike Ill give that a try hopfully the stalling in gear problem clears up after I get it tuned right.

Do you check if the idle cut solenoid is working by unplugging and listning if it clicks.

Here is a pick of the 210.

 

10532506_10203973547290312_8823004351475

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