RTB Posted June 7, 2015 Report Share Posted June 7, 2015 I have done a Matchbox swap by the books and still no luck getting a spark. My cranking voltage is only 8.5 volts from the C point on the dizzy to ground. No idea why I am losing volts, especially since I have a brand new coil. I tried with another brand new coil and still no luck. I am out of ideas. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted June 7, 2015 Report Share Posted June 7, 2015 That could be correct as there will be a voltage drop through the coil. The C terminal should intermittently drop to zero voltage or close while cranking as the matchbox 'turns' the ground on and off to fire the coil. The B terminal should have 12 volts with ignition ON and in START. Check this... you must have 12 volts during START on terminal B and + side of coil. Don't you worry, we'll get this going. Quote Link to comment
kelowg Posted June 7, 2015 Report Share Posted June 7, 2015 U did remove ballast resistor,right? Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted June 7, 2015 Report Share Posted June 7, 2015 use a EI coil maybe hook up the hot start wire to the + side coil also. this is the blk blu stripe wire the key On is the blk wht wire . this will go to the + side coil also. should get spark now from the center coil to ground Low vpoltage is the starter is sucking up the juice Quote Link to comment
RTB Posted June 7, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 7, 2015 Yea still no dice. Quote Link to comment
RTB Posted June 7, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 7, 2015 I have a black and green wire in that area too. Should that be going to anything? Quote Link to comment
RTB Posted June 7, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 7, 2015 Mike, I don't get anything during cranking from the b pin to the + terminal. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted June 7, 2015 Report Share Posted June 7, 2015 I have a black and green wire in that area too. Should that be going to anything? Mike, I don't get anything during cranking from the b pin to the + terminal. Yes, you must have power during cranking. Test that Black/Green wire for power during START. My wiring diagram shows the START signal wire being Black/Blue. Quote Link to comment
RTB Posted June 7, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 7, 2015 So to explain in more detail - right now I have the black/blue and black/white wire connected to the + side of coil. I have a wire going from the + side of the coil to the b pin of the matchbox. I have a wire going from the - side of the coil to the c pin of the matchbox. I get no spark Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted June 7, 2015 Report Share Posted June 7, 2015 ...The B terminal should have 12 volts with ignition ON and in START. Check this... you must have 12 volts during START on terminal B and + side of coil. Don't you worry, we'll get this going. Yes, you must have power during cranking. Test that Black/Green wire for power during START. My wiring diagram shows the START signal wire being Black/Blue. Test for 12 volts. Is the plug in the back of the ignition plugged into the harness? Quote Link to comment
RTB Posted June 7, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 7, 2015 OK update with figures. In the ON position, bother the + and - sides of the coil have 12 volts. Both the b and c pins have 12 volts as well. These are all to ground figures. Quote Link to comment
RTB Posted June 7, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 7, 2015 Which plug are you talking about? Quote Link to comment
RTB Posted June 7, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 7, 2015 OK during cranking my figures are: from the + side of the coil I go to about 9.5-10 volts. On the negative side same thing. On the b pin of the matchbox I go down to 9.5-10 volts and on the c side it jumps up and down. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted June 7, 2015 Report Share Posted June 7, 2015 Close. First try a ground wire directly to the distributor. Quote Link to comment
RTB Posted June 7, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 7, 2015 I have a dedicated ground from the distributor to a ground. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted June 7, 2015 Report Share Posted June 7, 2015 Well try a dedicated +12 from the battery to the + coil and the B post. Gotta be one of these. Quote Link to comment
RTB Posted June 7, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 7, 2015 OK so I used a second battery as a dedicated source of power to the + side of the coil and the b pin. Still no spark. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted June 7, 2015 Report Share Posted June 7, 2015 With +12 still connected touch a ground wire to the - side of the coil briefly and remove. This will have to produce a spark. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted June 8, 2015 Report Share Posted June 8, 2015 Then there is a problem with the ground on the distributor, the matchbox module or the reluctor inside. Take the cap off and see it the rotor turns when cranking. Quote Link to comment
RTB Posted June 8, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 8, 2015 Is the body of the matchbox supposed to ground on the distributor? The back is metal and pretty dirty. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted June 9, 2015 Report Share Posted June 9, 2015 The back of the module is metal and is (or should be) well grounded by the mounting screws. Quote Link to comment
RTB Posted June 9, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 9, 2015 I think that was the problem. Cleaned the back of the module and got spark. Thank you Mike for helping me out. Fired her up and she sounded incredible. Quote Link to comment
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