Dalesun Posted June 10, 2014 Report Share Posted June 10, 2014 Hey guys, really can't figure this out. Ive searched around and didn't find any info that has helped me so far. My engine wont rev up past 1500 rpms. Has about 15hg of vacume and bouces around on the gauge. Coil is getting 12.4V and is a msd blaster 2 coil for my ei ignition. Carb is fairly new weber 32/36 and ran great on my L16 2 weeks ago. Cam is set on the #2 mark and it has a B stamp in the back. Don't know about that really. Heard it is an sss cam??? Bought the engine from a Ratsun member here in Eugene and is the block that was swapped in at Canby one year. Used my U67 head from my L16 as it was in the best condidtion out of all the heads I have. Did a conpressipn test and got 205 190 200 200. Valves are adjusted. Timing is set to 12 degress. Not matter where I move the dizzy it doesnt want to run right. Sprayed carb cleaner all over the intake and where the carb and adapter bolts down and couldnt get it to change idle speed. Really stumped here and have been trying to get it to run for the past few days. Any help would be greatly apreciated. Need to get this running so I can get to Canby this year. Quote Link to comment
izzo Posted June 10, 2014 Report Share Posted June 10, 2014 It won't rev past 1500 RPM huh.. Does it idle smooth? I don't think you have a vauum leak. It would cause a shit or high idle, and likely go away when revved out.. It would also cause it to run lean, which is bad. I'd suspect something to do with the distributor. how's the cap and rotor? Points or matchbox system? 1 Quote Link to comment
Dalesun Posted June 10, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 10, 2014 It has the early style ei with an hei modual. Cap and rotor are less than a month old from napa. Maybe they got some gresse on them. Ill try swapping them out and see if that helps. Quote Link to comment
Dalesun Posted June 10, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 10, 2014 Swapped out cap and rotor for my old ones. Also swapped out spark plugs cause my were all black. Runs better now. Can get it up to 2500 now but still wont rev up higher. Just starts to shake really bad and then will putter out the carb and wont to die unless I take my foor off the gas. Quote Link to comment
dr.feltersnatch Posted June 10, 2014 Report Share Posted June 10, 2014 Check firing order. Make sure you didnt swap 2 wires Quote Link to comment
izzo Posted June 10, 2014 Report Share Posted June 10, 2014 I think with 2 wires switched, it would run bad enough to not even get up to 2500 RPMs, i could be wrong tho. 1 3 4 2. Was there anything that changed and it started doing this after? LIke did it start doing this after you threw the weber on? Black spark plugs meaning its running rich. Should be pretty clean, with a golden brown color after some use. Fire it up, let it idle, and maybe also try adjusting the air/fuel mixture a little bit. The thing might be jetted a bit to much for that engine... This is all free stuff to try, IDK what your problem is lol Quote Link to comment
Dalesun Posted June 10, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 10, 2014 Weber probably isnt jetted right. Ran good on my L16. Firing order is correct. 1342 counter clockwise on the right sparkplugs. Had it clockwise when I first tried to start it as was like da fack???? Then switched it and it ran.......but like shit. Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted June 10, 2014 Report Share Posted June 10, 2014 L16 jetting is same as baseline L20B jetting. Carb adapter.plate is loose on the inside? Can you move the carb side to side? Quote Link to comment
Dalesun Posted June 11, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 11, 2014 Cant move carb, adapter is tight. Going to tinket with it today and see what i can do. Might just swap out my dizzy and see what one of my points dizzys do. Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted June 11, 2014 Report Share Posted June 11, 2014 Has about 15hg of vacume and bouces around on the gauge. Uh oh. Give it a compression check. Sounds like a valve is sticking. If so no amount of adjusting, new parts or distributor swaps will fix it Quote Link to comment
smoke Posted June 11, 2014 Report Share Posted June 11, 2014 Uh oh. Give it a compression check. Sounds like a valve is sticking. If so no amount of adjusting, new parts or distributor swaps will fix it Did a conpressipn test and got 205 190 200 200. Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted June 11, 2014 Report Share Posted June 11, 2014 Low vacuum has a cause. There was a guy with low vacuum that found and fixed it last week. Quote Link to comment
smoke Posted June 11, 2014 Report Share Posted June 11, 2014 I agree that low vac has a cause, but he did not say he has low vac, he said he has 15 inches and it bounces around which can also be caused a bad misfire. It does seem ignition(ish) Like a really weak spark, BUT...make sure you did not mess up the needle and seat somehow when switching the carb over. Also, I assume the choke is open? Sometimes it can be a really simple thing you are overlooking. Quote Link to comment
besser Posted June 12, 2014 Report Share Posted June 12, 2014 Long shot..... Have you sprung the chain tensioner, you'd get some wild retardation as rpm climb and have a natural rev limiter as the ovaling of the chain changes your timing. On the track high rpm effects a stock tensioner to boot. Quote Link to comment
Dalesun Posted June 12, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 12, 2014 Fixed it. Runs great now. It was my ei dizzy. Bekow the rotor one of those ting tabs fell off. Was the earlier style ei. Put in my single points dizzy and swapped out coil, added resistor and it fired up and ran great. Thats for your input, really apreciate it. If all stays well ill be heading up to Canby! 2 Quote Link to comment
Tristin Posted June 12, 2014 Report Share Posted June 12, 2014 It's rare that you have to fix electronic ignition with a points distributor lol 2 Quote Link to comment
smoke Posted June 12, 2014 Report Share Posted June 12, 2014 glad you got it figured. Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted June 12, 2014 Report Share Posted June 12, 2014 This is the early style (1975-1978) If it gets loose the air gap gets too big and makes a weak spark. By contrast the later matchbox design is nearly foolproof. Quote Link to comment
Dalesun Posted June 12, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 12, 2014 I will be getting the matchbox design for my new ei dizzy. The one I had was given to me from Eagle Adam for free at the Blue Lake meet. Lasted me 10 months and never gave me problems until now. Defanitly want ei again. Much nicer than points. Quote Link to comment
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