supererogator Posted May 9, 2014 Report Share Posted May 9, 2014 I just did the chain, tensioner, and guides. It came as a kit and gaskets were a separate kit. The job wasn't too bad, but have your confidence on and some manuals at ready. Cost was around $100, and it took a weekend the first time. Quote Link to comment
supererogator Posted May 10, 2014 Report Share Posted May 10, 2014 Now that I am on my computer, not my phone, I can elaborate.The timing chain kit was about $80. It included upper and lower gears, chain, both guid rails, and new tensioner assembly. It was available, in stock at my local parts store. The gasket kit fits anything from an L16 to an L20, as both front cover gaskets are included, but I found the distributer gasket to be too small for my L20b. Easy fix.I had never done a timing chain, and did it on the road, in front of my sister's house with only the tools I brought. I was able to very methodically do the job in two days of shit weather and many book and internet times. I had not really wrenched in quite a while other than a few minor repairs here and there, and it wasn't a very difficult job. This video was invaluable... Good luck. Quote Link to comment
discobandaid01 Posted May 12, 2014 Report Share Posted May 12, 2014 thanks a bunch man.. gonna start that on Tuesday..what size is the crank bolt Quote Link to comment
discobandaid01 Posted May 13, 2014 Report Share Posted May 13, 2014 ..which way does the crank bolt turn to loosen? and yup its a 27mm.. other then the starter trick any other tricks to break it free?I tried using the starter with a breaker bar on the frame and well that sob is really on there..so you think a impact will get it off..? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted May 13, 2014 Report Share Posted May 13, 2014 The starter is 50 times stronger than in impact wrench and has masive gear reduction on the starter ring. Jump a fully charged battery on yours. It will come off. Be sure to take the coil wire off. Engine turns clockwise so nut loosens the other way. Brace the breaker bar against the frame. Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted May 13, 2014 Report Share Posted May 13, 2014 The bolt is normal thread. Righty tighty, lefty loosely. Quote Link to comment
supererogator Posted May 14, 2014 Report Share Posted May 14, 2014 I wedged a piece of wood in-between the cam sprocket and chain and was able to crack the crank bolt with a breaker bar. I figured that I was replacing both things either way so a bit of damage wasn't going to be a bad thing. I still used wood though. Metal will surely cause damage. That being said, the starter trick is a good one. Quote Link to comment
discobandaid01 Posted May 14, 2014 Report Share Posted May 14, 2014 got it off thanks for the idea of jumping my truck with another..worked the first try..ok got it all apart and all cleaned up ready to replace everything..which way does the oil slinger face its beveled does that side go in or out? and is the anything i need to watch out for tricks or make sure's? Quote Link to comment
discobandaid01 Posted May 16, 2014 Report Share Posted May 16, 2014 way off topic I apologize..ok so just replaced timing chain cap rotor wires and plugs everything new ..pretty sure everything was right but on the test start ..doesn't sound like its getting any spark turns over but doesn't even try to fire NEED SOME HELP BAD Quote Link to comment
discobandaid01 Posted May 16, 2014 Report Share Posted May 16, 2014 1985 720 z24......is this correct ....that the pin on the cam should be at the 12 o'clock position and shinny link on the cam at the #2 punch mark and the shinny link on the crank at the punch mark .. set the oil pump shaft at the 11:25 position and that should be all set correct..right then just put it back together and it should run..set the idle and we should be good to go..does that sound correct? Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted May 16, 2014 Report Share Posted May 16, 2014 Firing order is counterclockwise Quote Link to comment
discobandaid01 Posted May 16, 2014 Report Share Posted May 16, 2014 got that ..so does my last post sound correct? Quote Link to comment
discobandaid01 Posted May 16, 2014 Report Share Posted May 16, 2014 .all back together..runs awesome thanks for the help....hey i want to change the gear oil in the rear end and the transfer case ..the transmission to if it has it..what do you recommend? Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted May 16, 2014 Report Share Posted May 16, 2014 90W or 75W90, GL4 compatible can be used in the transmission http://m.oreillyauto.com/mt/www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/MP03/80054.oap?ck=Search_gear+oil_-1_3494&keyword=gear+oil Quote Link to comment
xsdg Posted May 18, 2014 Report Share Posted May 18, 2014 According to the FSM, GL4 in the transmission, GL4 in the t-case, GL5 in the diff Quote Link to comment
discobandaid01 Posted May 29, 2014 Report Share Posted May 29, 2014 .truck was running great key word was ..now it is running like shit..fuel is ending up in just about every hole in the carb and running really rough??? thought that the float was way high some how so i re set it fuel was on the dot was running fine...till i went to leave this morning for work same thing happened fuel up on top the carb so its getting way way to much fuel .. just pulled the carb off..had fuel in the vac advance line and the carb vent line??? wtf happen?.. Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted May 29, 2014 Report Share Posted May 29, 2014 So set the float level again. Other causes are sunken float, or crud in the fuel inlet valve. Quote Link to comment
supererogator Posted May 30, 2014 Report Share Posted May 30, 2014 Did the top half of the carb jiggle loose? I have had this happen to me recently. Grab the top of the carb and wiggle it. If it moves, take it off and tighten the bolts that hold the bottom on. Mine has three underneath, and one accessible from the passenger side of the truck. Quote Link to comment
supererogator Posted May 30, 2014 Report Share Posted May 30, 2014 Sorry. Double post redacted. Quote Link to comment
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