Ascendashogun Posted March 8, 2014 Report Share Posted March 8, 2014 Alright guysI tried so hard not to be that forum boob that you all troll so damn hard...But im trying to convert to s13 coilovers on my 240zIve been searching HBZ, Here, Zilvia, Nico...facebook...And STILL cant find a good enough write upLooking to convert JUST THE COILOVERS to S13/Z32/S12 whatever of those...Just want to know what mountain im looking at attempting to conquer here.The assets arent a problem...its the lack of bases...idk what the fuck im looking at...Any help would be stellar as i dont even know how to ask the question :( Again sorry for the noobiness :( Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted March 8, 2014 Report Share Posted March 8, 2014 Are are asking how to replace the stock Datsun 510 coilovers (struts) with Nissan 240SX units? Quote Link to comment
MicroMachinery Posted March 8, 2014 Report Share Posted March 8, 2014 Not 510.. 240z. Are you talking about just the collars/sleeves and springs? Shouldn't be too difficult. I know the camber plates cross over. Quote Link to comment
captaingamez Posted March 8, 2014 Report Share Posted March 8, 2014 But im trying to convert to s13 coilovers on my 240z Are are asking how to replace the stock Datsun 510 coilovers (struts) with Nissan 240SX units? Quote Link to comment
captaingamez Posted March 8, 2014 Report Share Posted March 8, 2014 Your best bet is to cut and weld, as in cut the shock tube off the old shock and weld on the coilover to the lower part. The other option is converting the entire front end to 240sx, control arms, TC rods, knuckle, brakes, ect ect. I would go for the second option in an effort to make things plug and play with off the shelf components. Quote Link to comment
Ascendashogun Posted March 8, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 8, 2014 Your best bet is to cut and weld, as in cut the shock tube off the old shock and weld on the coilover to the lower part. The other option is converting the entire front end to 240sx, control arms, TC rods, knuckle, brakes, ect ect. I would go for the second option in an effort to make things plug and play with off the shelf components. How much of a bitch is this? Its a bit of a venture for me, something im willing to do but before i do it i gotta make sure i know what im getting myself into. I want to make sure theres write ups and such. But yeah im probably going to anyways XD Thank you all. Hope the helpful info keeps rolling in. Im going to just start with the coilovers (thats spring/sleeve/strut) whatever lol Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted March 8, 2014 Report Share Posted March 8, 2014 If you are just swapping a coil over onto your 240z struts... Most of the following post you can ignore... You can do that without cutting coils easily enough... but a lowered vehicle really should have either a stiffer spring, to reduce suspension travel to avoid hitting the road, or cut some of the coil off which will do the same thing. Cutting the spring solely to lower the ride height is wrong thinking. You are not taking into account how much this raises the spring rate. Remove the strut and carefully compress and remove the spring. Using a 6" angle grinder trim around the base of the spring perch just enough to slice through above the weld... Tap spring perch up and off with hammer... Grind down the weld that secured the perch to the strut tube... This is so you can instal split collars that will clamp and support the lower spring perch making it fully adjustable up and down... Properly installed they will support 3 tons each or about three 510s Just compress the spring with a jack and tighten split collar... Total cost so far was $25 for the collars, and for that I get adjustable ride height. Once you get it where you want it what good are $600 coil overs? They're just along for the ride. Next is the controlled shortening of the spring to increase the spring rate..... At this point instal the coil over threaded sleeve, coil spring and the adjustable bottom perch. The split collar saves you any welding and will support the sleeve. Something to consider while you have the struts off anyway, but only if they have the original factory valving inside and do not have the replaceable strut inserts inside... If your struts have softened over the years there are two ways to fix this. You can replace the internal valving with replaceable self contained inserts. If they have already been replaced then this is all you can do now. But if you have the original stock damper inside you need only replace the thin fluid with something thicker. Thisker is harder to push through the small valve orifices. For years, motorcycles vary the fork oil viscosity to vary the damping to tune the ride. While the strut is disassembled, loosen and remove the gland nut.. Lift out this O ring. I used a dental pick. The damper will not come out unless this is done... The damper... Slides apart to reveal the internal valves. Just keep safe and clean. The oil oil is like 5W and very thin. I just emptied it out and part filler with 20W Bellray motorcycle fork oil, about $17 a quart and enough for three struts. Fork oil can be bought in a variety of thicknesses. I installed the dampers in their liquid bath and continued to fill the strut leaving a third of an inch for expansion. Tighten the gland nut on Now it is important to expel any and all air trapped in the damper so with spindle down extent the strut rod fully. Now hold upside down and compress the strut rod into the strut. Do several times. Remove gland nut and check/add any fluid needed. Done. On my next diss-assembly I will be trying 30W . My other 710 is a lighter sedan that my wife likes to drive so I used ATF which is maybe 8-10 W. Because I increased the spring rate and lowered the ride height I also firmed up the shock action. Ride is much better than before. The combination of lower ride height, stiffer spring and firmer shocks really stabilizes the handling during spirited driving. Oil, split collars and a metal cut off blade came to under $50. Quote Link to comment
Ascendashogun Posted March 8, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 8, 2014 If you are just swapping a coil over onto your 240z struts... Most of the following post you can ignore... At this point instal the coil over threaded sleeve, coil spring and the adjustable bottom perch. The split collar saves you any welding and will support the sleeve. Something to consider while you have the struts off anyway, but only if they have the original factory valving inside and do not have the replaceable strut inserts inside... Because I increased the spring rate and lowered the ride height I also firmed up the shock action. Ride is much better than before. The combination of lower ride height, stiffer spring and firmer shocks really stabilizes the handling during spirited driving. Oil, split collars and a metal cut off blade came to under $50. How much of a drop was it? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted March 8, 2014 Report Share Posted March 8, 2014 Just because you have a height adjustable coil over does not give you unlimited drop. If keeping your stock struts then 2"-3" or you risk bottoming out and damaging the damper inside. A way to avoid this is to use shorter struts to begin with or section 2-3" out of your strut tube and weld it back together and use a shorter insert inside. Those pictures are from my 710. I replaced the stock struts with those from a Maxima goon which were well over an inch shorter to begin with so I guess I could go as much as 4" with them but just recently raised them an inch to prevent the tire rubbing the under side of the fender on tight turns over curbs.. Quote Link to comment
Ascendashogun Posted March 11, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 11, 2014 Just because you have a height adjustable coil over does not give you unlimited drop. If keeping your stock struts then 2"-3" or you risk bottoming out and damaging the damper inside. A way to avoid this is to use shorter struts to begin with or section 2-3" out of your strut tube and weld it back together and use a shorter insert inside. Those pictures are from my 710. I replaced the stock struts with those from a Maxima goon which were well over an inch shorter to begin with so I guess I could go as much as 4" with them but just recently raised them an inch to prevent the tire rubbing the under side of the fender on tight turns over curbs.. If im going cheap then im DEFINITELY not going to care Im ballin out later ;) Just want something so people look and neck break Quote Link to comment
_UNKNOWN Posted March 11, 2014 Report Share Posted March 11, 2014 I converted to S13/Y33 rears on a 910 Maxima and have issues with rear A-arms lifting going angled across bumps (cause I'm 'bout DAT life DOE) I MIGHT say S14 would fit better and not have arm lift, granted S14 rears are looooong. Fronts you can just cut and weld and you can use any 45mm OD MacPherson inserts such as AE92 GTS (shorter than MR2) AW11 MR2 and such. I find this to be expensive as I got my JICs for $450 with Tein S13 camber plates. KYB inserts set you back $80, sleeves another $40-50 at least $100 into camber plates and your time to fabricate. Also you can cheat on S13 front end conversions and run stock castor rods if you're going to redrill the arms for your stock castor rods mount up points which is fairly easy with some measurements and a metal bit piece. Requires. . . •S13 casings/coil overs *cough Cima/Cedric Y32/33 is the same lengths F/R as S13* •S13 LCAs •S13 steering knuckles/arms •BRAKES of your choice since now you got that gang member 100mm mounting plate! 26mm Z32 brakes should clear most aftermarket 15" wheels and you can throw on Y32/33 rotors on and have 1/2" bigger rotors than Z32! Stock s chassis brakes should suffice though. Best of luck in your front end! I still am mixing and matching mine I should have Cima Y33 stuffed under soon as I ditch some Cima/Dime parts. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted March 11, 2014 Report Share Posted March 11, 2014 The 810/Maxima probably has the same IRS set up as the old 510 and 610, just larger. To correct or reduce camber and toe in on bumps the rear cross member is slotted to relocate the control arms. In effect like bump steer spacers on the front. Quote Link to comment
_UNKNOWN Posted March 11, 2014 Report Share Posted March 11, 2014 More or less it is just the same set up as stated just a bit bigger. I've read about slotting the mount for adjustability, I also know (forget his user name) there's a guy on here who does relocation of the mounts and fabricates them. I still plan on somehow raising the funds for S13 rear subframe swap, really lusting for those RUCAs and adjustable RLCAs. Meh I forgot I also need RCAs, bump steer is the most un-fun thing. Also the split collar method is awesome! I didn't think it would support a coil over sleeve or spring perch, very cool budget + function mod. I discussed this with CaptainGamez the other day and thought he was crazy ". . .use a split collar and mount your coil over sleeve over it" Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted March 11, 2014 Report Share Posted March 11, 2014 A clean surface and properly tightened it's rated at 6,000 pounds each. A small mig tack weld would make it impossible to slip down. Quote Link to comment
_UNKNOWN Posted March 11, 2014 Report Share Posted March 11, 2014 That is insanely awesome information to know. I knew someone who made a rear set of Corolla coil overs utilizing split collars and everyone thought it was sketchy, including me. 6,000lbs is insane weight bearing for a split collar would've never thought that was possible even me with my poor welding skills could lay some MIG tacks down and make sure it NEVER moves. For years I always did the weld on collar method and paid someone due to my welds SUCK, and I can't afford a welder unit. I'll be doing this once I sell my 510 BMC/acquire funds, I have a bunch of spare coil over parts laying around including adjustable inserts, metal slim profile top hats, etc so hopefully they will fit the OE casings (assuming they're 45mm OD) and eliminate the need for a bunch of cutting/welding swapping knuckles to stub mounts or spending hundreds fitting Y33 arms, brakes and custom drilled 4 lug hubs. Sorry OP if thread jacking. Quote Link to comment
Ascendashogun Posted March 12, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 12, 2014 Sorry OP if thread jacking. Youre good man :p no worries Im going up to phoenix April 11th. let me know if you want to meet up and i can see your rides. Im about 2-3 hours south anyways :p 1 Quote Link to comment
_UNKNOWN Posted March 14, 2014 Report Share Posted March 14, 2014 I am down! Oh FYI anyone wondering OE casings accept "45mm" catridge units, they're actually 40.5/41mm with slight play. I have some JIC Magic golds (specially FLTA2s, IIRC) I yanked apart dial caliper'd them at approx 45mm and they did not fit the stock casings. Some Corolla guys were using JIC silvers as parts and I guess JIC silvers (really old ones) used TRD green inserts which are basically the same spec as a stock AE92 GTS, same with the shorter Tokico HTS inserts. Our stock 910/Maxima measured in at 40.67 (with grime on them). Also you should be able to get coilover sleeves for super cheap in AZ I got mine for $15 off the local CL! Quote Link to comment
captaingamez Posted March 15, 2014 Report Share Posted March 15, 2014 Youre good man :P no worries Im going up to phoenix April 11th. let me know if you want to meet up and i can see your rides. Im about 2-3 hours south anyways :P I am also down!! PM me or _unknown_ Quote Link to comment
Laecaon Posted March 15, 2014 Report Share Posted March 15, 2014 Double Split collars are rated for high axial loads. I have seen ratings from 6k-13k lbs for the 2inch ones. Quote Link to comment
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