MantisX620 Posted March 2, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 2, 2014 Bad ground on the disti? Its grounded on the side of the engine block and I did another from the negative terminal to the body. Quote Link to comment
smoke Posted March 2, 2014 Report Share Posted March 2, 2014 If u have the body of it grounded, that's not it then. Put a timing light on it and see where you're at. Quote Link to comment
MantisX620 Posted March 2, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 2, 2014 Its falling in between 10 and 12 degrees. More weird shit, my timing light is missing? Its not a steady blink. Sometimes its steady then it misses a few. Does this on all 4 wires. The idle doesnt sound like its missing though. MantisX Quote Link to comment
MantisX620 Posted March 2, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 2, 2014 So I reset the timing after getting it started and it seems to run fine now. I thought it might be the ballast like Mike said but Ive even hooked it back up now and it still cranks and starts fine. Something tells me this isnt over with and will return. Next step is to wire up this 78 disti and box and hope for some even better results. Will keep everyone posted on what I find. MantisX Quote Link to comment
MantisX620 Posted March 2, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 2, 2014 Just drove the piss out of it for a good 15 miles with my fingers crossed. No issues and pulled all the way to redline. Quote Link to comment
MantisX620 Posted March 4, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 4, 2014 So today I installed a 78 620 disti and igniter box. I took off the ballast and I'm using an msd coil. Somehow this install has introduced a new issue. It starts and idles fine but as soon as I give it gas, the carbs spit. I haven't increased plug gap yet. I'm pretty confident my wiring is good or it wouldn't start right? Also it rev'd fine with the old points setup. Should I have to find #1 on the cap again? Thanks MantisX Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted March 4, 2014 Report Share Posted March 4, 2014 You just said yesterday that it pulled to redline with no issues, did you change something else? Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted March 4, 2014 Report Share Posted March 4, 2014 Don't start messing with adjustments. Just put the old distributor back in, and if it runs right then you know its the new distributor. Also the MSD Blaster coil is incompatible. The MSD Blatster 2 is OK. Quote Link to comment
Driftease Posted March 4, 2014 Report Share Posted March 4, 2014 What do yo mean they spit are they backfiring through the carbs or fuel spraying out at part throttle? Quote Link to comment
smoke Posted March 4, 2014 Report Share Posted March 4, 2014 Backfire through carbs after messing with anything timing related, normally equals retarded timing, or timing not advancing. Quote Link to comment
MantisX620 Posted March 4, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 4, 2014 Don't start messing with adjustments. Just put the old distributor back in, and if it runs right then you know its the new distributor. Also the MSD Blaster coil is incompatible. The MSD Blatster 2 is OK. This may be part of the issue then as it is a Blaster 1 that I had in my integra a long time ago. What do yo mean they spit are they backfiring through the carbs or fuel spraying out at part throttle? Definitely a backfire. Backfire through carbs after messing with anything timing related, normally equals retarded timing, or timing not advancing. I will mention here that I did have to slot my timing plate to get it clockwise enough to 12 degrees. Im hoping to work on it again today after work. Will try what is suggested here and report back. Thanks all MantisX Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted March 4, 2014 Report Share Posted March 4, 2014 anytime you put a dizzy in you better line it up to TDC to make sure the timming is correct as differnt dizzys might have different set ups. Most time when people get a dizzy it comes with the correct base(pedastal).Install dizzy at TDC and make sure its in the middle of the timming adjustmant. then you know its close or correct. If you got to crank it all the way to one side(Adv or retard) to keep it running then the dizzy or more like the oil pump spindal is off a tooth. coil im compatability may be a issue but I also thought maybe the ballast resisitor was bad or could be going bad. where it may start But not run. You dont need a fuel reg on there if you dont want one. As for the fusable link? the link feeds the fuse box which is everything How can it still power up the lights ect>>>?????? Sounds Hoky to me. Quote Link to comment
smoke Posted March 4, 2014 Report Share Posted March 4, 2014 How much pressure does a stock fuel pump on one of these put out anyway? Quote Link to comment
MantisX620 Posted March 4, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 4, 2014 How much pressure does a stock fuel pump on one of these put out anyway? Ive been told 3-5 psi. Don't start messing with adjustments. Just put the old distributor back in, and if it runs right then you know its the new distributor. Also the MSD Blaster coil is incompatible. The MSD Blatster 2 is OK. Found this on the MSD site so I think im good with the coil. You can use our PN 8202 Blaster 2 coil or our PN 8222 Blaster HVC coil. The main difference between the two (besides the color) is the blaster 2 coil is filled with oil and must be mounted straight up and down. The blaster HVC coil is filled with epoxy and can be mounted in any direction. As far as output is concerned both have the same output, and you may need to use a ballast resistor if your factory ignition system is using one now, or your factory coil has a high resistance than one ohm on the primary side of the coil. Gonna set the engine to TDC and see where the rotor is pointing. Im betting this is it because I just shoved the elec disti back in the same position my points disti was in. MantisX Quote Link to comment
smoke Posted March 4, 2014 Report Share Posted March 4, 2014 I must of had worn out needle and seats in mine. I put a set on a VW engine a while back and they would start to puke at anything above 2 psi. Of course, it was an offroad car, so they would get bounced pretty good. Quote Link to comment
MantisX620 Posted March 4, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 4, 2014 Regarding my fusible link issue, I think I know why. The white/red wire that normally goes on the alternator lug, Ive moved to the starter lug. Ive also run a thicker wire directly from the alt lug to the starter lug. (This is a saturn alternator upgrade btw) So I think because of the extra run between the alt and starter, its throwing 12v to the fuse box through the wht/red wire since its not hooked only to the alt lug anymore. MantisX Quote Link to comment
Driftease Posted March 4, 2014 Report Share Posted March 4, 2014 I must of had worn out needle and seats in mine. I put a set on a VW engine a while back and they would start to puke at anything above 2 psi. Of course, it was an offroad car, so they would get bounced pretty good. The R1 had a fuel pump set to 3 psi from factory any way, but why run downdraft on this engine seems like sidedraft would be much better suited to your aplication. They are badass on a vw though. Smoke you know how to replace needle seats c-mon lol Quote Link to comment
smoke Posted March 4, 2014 Report Share Posted March 4, 2014 I assume you meant why run side draft and not down on my vw? Because I wanted to try a cv style carb. And yes, I did replace the needle and seats, I was joking. But anytime it got really rough going they would start to barf if I did not turn down the pressure. Even lowered the float so much it started to starve on a long pull. Low pressure fixed it right up though. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted March 4, 2014 Report Share Posted March 4, 2014 the red wht wire is all the same . In theroy the fusable link connects all this unless you added a bypass of some sort. when you remove the fusable link this discconnects the 12volt battery supply. even to the alternator. So you must have another lug to the battery (most people hook this at the starter unless you have a wire going to the battery post up top. You could get a Cheap dial fuel reg. I have one also but I have a elelctric fuel pump on my yellow car. The mechnical pump once the carbs are filled up the pump arm goes limp. Should try it soem time and take pump out. once carbs are filled the pump goes limp. Quote Link to comment
smoke Posted March 4, 2014 Report Share Posted March 4, 2014 Once it hits a certain pressure from the needle seating it stops pushing, assuming the needle and seat can handle stopping the pressure and not be overwhelmed by it, yes. 1 Quote Link to comment
MantisX620 Posted March 5, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 5, 2014 Ok update. Couldn't get it to stop backfiring out carbs on the EI setup. I put the points setup back and it did the same. I forgot I left out the ballast and put that back. It then started and ran/rev'd normal. I will add that it ran the same way the EI setup did before I put back the ballast. (Bad) So I'm guessing I either: A: wired up the box wrong or B: got a shitty deal on ebay. I wired it just like the diagram here: http://community.ratsun.net/topic/55808-78-electronic-dizzy-problems/ Where does the green wire that's on the negative side of the points coil go when installing the new setup/coil? Thanks MantisX Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted March 5, 2014 Report Share Posted March 5, 2014 Sounds like the distributor is fine - if you use the ballast. Its the coil that needs the resistor. So use the ballast. Later you can upgrade the coil to one that will work w/o a ballast. Quote Link to comment
MantisX620 Posted March 5, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 5, 2014 I hooked the EI back up and put the ballast back in play. The issue is the same. I even tried the points coil, same result. I paid 50 bucks for the disti and the box on ebay. Im starting to wonder if thats why lol. MantisX Quote Link to comment
MantisX620 Posted March 5, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 5, 2014 Just hooked the points disti and coil back up and she purrs. Well this sucks lol. I guess im the anomaly where EI actually makes their shit run worse. Or just maybe I got suckered. Anything else I can test to make sure its not the disti and box? Maybe an HEI module? Thanks everyone MantisX Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted March 5, 2014 Report Share Posted March 5, 2014 Yes, get it purring using the points setup. Then don't change the coil or ballast, just swap the distributor. If it doesn't run right then you know its the distributor. EI will run perfect with the points coil & ballast resistor. Quote Link to comment
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.