datsunaholic Posted February 5, 2014 Report Share Posted February 5, 2014 My 1980 L20B has those. looks like that's not a L20 block, notice the screw bosses around the oil intake? I would say it's a Zsomething block except it's clearly stamped L20b. 1980 L20Bs, and probably late 79, as well as factory crate engines after 1979, were all Z20 casting blocks with L-series machining. I've had a bunch, and all had a "W" at the end of the serial number (for the L20B finished variety). And all had the holes for the remote oil filter. On the "exhaust" side of the block, there is a boss for machining the NAPS-Z code and serial number that's left as a rough casting on the L20B variant: 1 Quote Link to comment
vern_k Posted February 5, 2014 Report Share Posted February 5, 2014 I have a Z20E engine that I will be getting rid of, I could pull the rods out, but i'm super busy during Feb, but will be pulling engine and could pull rods out for you if you don't have any luck else where, I will be trying to get it pulled before but can't say that I will have time. Quote Link to comment
EricJB Posted February 5, 2014 Report Share Posted February 5, 2014 So are we thinking he needs 152.5 rods and got 149.5 instead? I've been thinking about trying an L20 crank/ 149.5 rod with KA pistons. Haven't really done the math though. Quote Link to comment
Mooghosty Posted February 5, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 5, 2014 It doesn't sound like this engine combo is what you were expecting it to be. Before you go any further, you may want to reconsider what it is you are looking for out of your engine build. Maybe you can use some of the parts you already have in combination with a different crank?.... Honestly I'm not looking to make a bunch more power than stock. I used to drive a L16 powered 510 with a W53 head and it was the most fun I've ever had in a car. I have a Z20E engine that I will be getting rid of, I could pull the rods out, but i'm super busy during Feb, but will be pulling engine and could pull rods out for you if you don't have any luck else where, I will be trying to get it pulled before but can't say that I will have time. PM'd Quote Link to comment
KlassicMotion Posted February 5, 2014 Report Share Posted February 5, 2014 Honestly I'm not looking to make a bunch more power than stock. I used to drive a L16 powered 510 with a W53 head and it was the most fun I've ever had in a car. "Power", are you looking for more Torque or HP? The engine combo you have chosen is designed to produce more HP at higher RPMs while sacrificing low rpm torque. In other words, it's better for racing where you are running 3/4 to full throttle all the time. If you are doing most of your driving on the street or autocross, where you have a combination of lower speeds and stop and go, you will want more low end torque like a stoker engine will produce. I'm not trying to change your mind, but from what you keep saying it doesn't sound like this engine will be exactly what you're looking for. And since you have to make changes to your current engine, now is the time to do it. Quote Link to comment
vern_k Posted February 11, 2014 Report Share Posted February 11, 2014 so these are the ones he needs? Quote Link to comment
Mooghosty Posted February 16, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 16, 2014 Update: Waiting on the correct connecting rods to arrive this Wednesday. Probably gong to put those in sometime this week and see how it all lines up. Quote Link to comment
Cpl620 Posted February 16, 2014 Report Share Posted February 16, 2014 what if you decked the block? that would be a shit ton of material. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted February 16, 2014 Report Share Posted February 16, 2014 I've removed 1mm from my Z22 block and do not expect any problems. That's about 0.040" Quote Link to comment
Cpl620 Posted February 16, 2014 Report Share Posted February 16, 2014 haha, doing that would require a lot of work on this. your whole timing situation would probably need to be reconfigured. (chain length and sprocket size) unless the tensioner could account for that much slack? Quote Link to comment
Mooghosty Posted February 21, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 21, 2014 yeah, I assume you would need some sort of extended tensioner if the deck was milled down ~3mm. Not to mention the cost. I bought the set from vern_k and had my machine shop check them. They're installed now and everything looks correct (piston sitting about 0.040" above deck). I'll post some pics as soon as I get back Quote Link to comment
Mooghosty Posted February 28, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 28, 2014 I just mocked it up and the pistons are hitting the head. They stick out about 0.011" above the head gasket. I have one of those fel-pro copper head gasket spacer shims (0.020" thickness) but doesn't fit with new modified bore size. If I was able to use it should leave me with 0.009" of clearance... I think. Are there any other options or do I need to get these pistons milled down? Quote Link to comment
Kirden Posted February 28, 2014 Report Share Posted February 28, 2014 I'm late on this, but you can get reconditioned rods from BP connecting rods. $40 each. My set came in last month: Got them off fleabay. Quote Link to comment
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