Too much chain slack?

[kgrantkey]

I just did a mock up on L20b I plan to put back in service. I;ve got a picture of the timing chain I'll post. I'm thinking I need a new chain.

 

 

The tensioner is pushed out so far that you need to push down on the top for it to slide easily back into the tensioner block,

 

Autozone has the chain for 28 dollars. I have about 20 dollar discount on my autozone card. I am over budget as I speak on what I set aside yo rework the engine and clutch, but I feel this has got to be fixed for any longevity to be accomplished.

 

Anyone ever bought a 30 dollar three month warranty chain from autozone?

[datzenmike]

Is the tension side guide just above it pushed as far to the right in the picture as you can?

Is the tension side guide rubber all worn off?? maybe need new ones more than chain. Thicker guide rubber will take up the slack.

Has the head been milled down?? This will add slack.

I think $80 gets new chain/tensioner and guides made in Japan. Hainz???

 

 

Can't see in your picture. Compare your guide rubber for wear.

 

 

[banzai510(hainz)]

something dont look right.

You should be able to get most if not all that tension out by pushing the slack side guide in.

I have notice depennding on the tensioner brann with I can get the tensioner shoe to push all the way in FLUSH.Some its out like a 1/8 .

 

I install the chain at TDC ect with tension on the titie side of the chain(meaning you turned motor crank to the right... then push the slack side guide in at the top and push it to the right. also while pushin the tensioner in.

 

 

looking at this photo I dont know if theat slack side guide could go more IN.

 

to me most chains dont wear much. if your V mack on cam lines up to the dash at zero on crank(you can loosely put he front cover back on to see the marks( if OK call the chain good. but a new tensioner and slack side guid if your BRoke.

 

 

rememebr turn the crank not the cam. otherwise you inducing a false positive. going by the photo I bet you turned the cam ccw and induced alot of slack on that side but its still loose. if you turn the crank to the right we can see the natural pull of the chain and where the slack is at exactly

[kgrantkey]

Im using the crank pully to turn the engine, It slips on and off easy enough.

 

The Chain guides came out of an l18 and appear brand new. Same for the tensioner.  The head hasn't been shaved and I have an old gasket between the block and head so Im not gonna gain anything unless I've mixed the sprockerts up or I cam find some holes to move the guide closer. 

 

Is there a chance I have a sprocket mixed up? I ended up with 3 timing chains. This one is the only 57 link chain I have. 55 links on the other two.

 

The left chain guide is pushed as far as possible unless I'm using the wrong holes which I'll check. I will also count teeth on each sprocket. 

 

The timimg chain cover fits fine and has the 4 bolt holea in the top two corners so I havent lost my mind on identifing the engine it is an l20b.

[datzenmike]

All L series sprockets are the same.

 

 

L20B chain should be longer than the L16/18 by 4cm over all... that's 2 links longer. 57 links isn't right they are much longer than that. Swap the smaller chain on and see if it fits. You'll know when it's right.

[kgrantkey]

All L series sprockets are the same.

 

 

L20B chain should be longer than the L16/18 by 4cm over all... that's 2 links longer. 57 links isn't right they are much longer than that. Swap the smaller chain on and see if it fits. You'll know when it's right.

They count the links different in japaneese. 114 links is 114 link pins in America. 

[kgrantkey]

I'll do some more checking and read up some more.

[datzenmike]

If you have a shorter chain just try it...

[banzai510(hainz)]

L20 uses the longer chain already

[ggzilla]

It looks like an L20B chain on an L18. Check the block for the ID stamp to confirm. The stamp is more accurate than looking at the timing cover.

[kgrantkey]

So i got a Melling tining chain. Got the kit which comes with both gears tensioner and guides. This picture is with just the chain out of the kit installed. The two guides were identical to the previous one I had that were like new. Melleng is well known and I've used several of their oil pumps.

 

The chain has the lite bright chain links at the appropriate spots and I's obvious my 40 year old chain had too much slack to even fit properly let alone allow you to get the timing set exact.

 

 

 

I found a post on this site that said the curved chain guard on your left facing the timing chain was different between the L18 and L20B engines, but out of three sets I now have for the L20b and the L18, they are the same.

[ggzilla]

Wow

[kgrantkey]

The kit is going back because the cam gear is not marked on the back edge for allignment and it has only 3 holes to view thru. No nees to make viewing holes if the gear isnt marked.

 

I'm going to order the chain and return the kit.  I may just get the chain and place it in the kit and use this one if it takes them too long to get the chain from their store in tennessee. Ill just do a chain swapp into the kit with the one they give me. The package had been opened so someone was gonna buy it until they looked at the cam sprocket.

 

 I was very close to getting the timing kit off ebay. A high rep dealer has a couple for sale, but I like to hold my parts in hand before I buy.

[kgrantkey]

Wow

Yep,  I'll feel a whole lot better with this timing chain. I had experemented pushing the curved chain guide in far enough to get the bolt behind the top hole and it tightened the chain considerable but the chain would rub too hard against the guide and it would be a poor way to run an engine. A new chain is what the doctor ordered.

 

It's nice to not be in a hurry and able to do a near complete mock up before gluing everything together permanently. :thumbup:

[banzai510(hainz)]

All the melling/cloyes timming kits are the same/ they all come with the 3 hole USA made top sproket.and you cant see the v notch. if its marked at all. I used to get the Beck Arnely(repacked Jap kits) and Tsubaki timming kits. OSK is ther next kinda good sets. But notice the dowel can be slighly loose in the cam

 

key is you have to assume its good and base the timming set up off the brite links and assume its good.

 

your set up looks better.

[kgrantkey]

Big difference from the old chain. It is a testament to the advantage of double row timing set versus a belt that so many smaller engines have that the chain ran for almost 40 years before the stretch became so much it was rendered unusable.

 

In the kit the tensioner has a rubber O ring that would take up most of the slack between the tensioner and tensioner block that is not visable in the picture.

 

With the new pistons, rings, bearings, timing chain, reworked head, KA oil pump, cam and other miscellaneous items I'm gonna feel very confident in this engine to serve me well for the next few years.

 

 

 

 

your set up looks better.

 

 

[kgrantkey]

 

  

 

 

 

As you ca see the cam gear does not have the timing grooves or a see thru for position #2 which is the most common setting for stock camshafts.

 

 

Tis is the set on ebay I had been contemplating purchasing. But like I stated earlier I'm just gonna use a new chain to go with the rest of my timing parts. If I had really needed a timing set this is probably what I;d have ended up buying.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[kgrantkey]

 

 

 

Does this look right?  If it's off just a bit will the rotor line up to the side of the terminal increasing missfire opportunities?

 

The dizzy I have is in great shape ball bearings and vaccume are all good. Problem is the matchbox is facing the exhaust manifold......so I'm gomma tackle that prob;em next. May start a thread.

[banzai510(hainz)]

yes that correct per the book.

the rest can be sorted out by the timming plate on the dizzy or adjusting the timming plate under neatht the dizzy also to get say 7-14 deg tdc with a timming light