Mattndew76 Posted June 9, 2014 Report Share Posted June 9, 2014 new toy to help with my various projects :) Advice on these cabinets... Seal them up GOOD or you will have the blast media in and on everything. Get some calking and go to town. Quote Link to comment
rusty12ver Posted June 10, 2014 Report Share Posted June 10, 2014 Dorman 610-403. For a nissan quest, used by many on here, including myself. knurl dia. Is 12.90mm. Kinda confused on what knurl diameter you need by your previous post. Did the hole get enlarged? Quote Link to comment
housew Posted June 10, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 10, 2014 Dorman 610-403. For a nissan quest, used by many on here, including myself. knurl dia. Is 12.90mm. Kinda confused on what knurl diameter you need by your previous post. Did the hole get enlarged? The knurl diameter would be based on what hub its being pressed into. I really have no clue what hub I'm running. Not knowing what the parts are pretty much blows. I THINK i have non-v6 200sx struts and hubs with 240/260/280z (not zx) brakes, my lug nuts are aftermarket m12x1.25 (current front studs are 7/16, they do thread on and take torque, but loosely, ghetto, and not really safe) Current studs are also too long for my new wheels. so i needed a stud with 14.35 x 7 knurl, around 40mml, with an m12x1.25 thread pitch, and I picked up some stock studs from a 2006 wrx that fit the bill. I didn't have time to press them in, but side by side with the old studs and a caliper I don't see why they wouldn't be perfect. Quote Link to comment
housew Posted June 10, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 10, 2014 Advice on these cabinets... Seal them up GOOD or you will have the blast media in and on everything. Get some calking and go to town. good call. Currently its in a portagarage (not super clean anyways) but i have noticed some dust escaping although not as much as i thought. All the joints are currently siliconed and the door has a good seal /latch. But there is a hookup for a shopvac (that im not using yet) that i should cap off, and the baffled vent on the back to let air out (needs to go somewhere) I have a lot of learning to do about them. I got glass beeds to start. Not very agressive but clean things up well. I need a way to sift the media to get some chunks out from blasting. Or just replace the media. Seems silly not to sift it, but its pretty cheap stuff. Quote Link to comment
housew Posted June 10, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 10, 2014 T3 parts are on the fed-ex truck on their way to my house. Just need several hours to do the LCAs and I should be able to put my front suspension back together :) 1 Quote Link to comment
housew Posted June 11, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 11, 2014 got the T3 parts AND my new oil pressure sending unit in the mail last night. Makes me a happy boy oil pressure sending unit has continuity so that's a major plus. I have a good feeling this one will actually work when i get a chance to put it in. top hats fit awesome. Love the bearing, really nice parts. strut tower bar clears the motor nice, and fits under the hood, but the bracket with the slot for the prop rod hits ATM. Well see if its a problem when everything is in its homeplace (bar actually bolted down on both sides). If there is still an interference the prop rod bracket will get a little slimmer lug studs test fit and they are perfect now i just need some time to stab it all together (not looking good on that front though) Quote Link to comment
housew Posted June 11, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 11, 2014 also been dabbeling with the front brakes since im in there anyways. I cleaned up my current brakes (which i believe to be 240/60/80z stuff) with the sand blaster and paint, but since they are off, why not replace them? according to my research 240zs have 90mm caliper mounting spacing on the strut, same as my stuts (maybe they are non-v6 s12 200sx?) and since im useing stock 240z stuff, my assumption is that 240z brake upgrades will also work for me. so currently running a 10.7 solid rotor with a twin piston caliper. Looking to step my game up to a 10.8mm internally vented (and cross drilled to match the rear) rotor, and a quad piston caliper. I SHOULD be able to accomplish this with toyota s12w calipers and 84-85 non-turbo (4 lug) rotors. current plan is to use s13wb calipers (slightly larger pistons, take up more space towards the wheel mounting surface, slightly heavier, better cooling, same mounting pattern, same offset, for use with a slightly thicker rotor 25mm vs 22mm) but essentially the same as the s12w. My research shows that the 3mm difference in rotor thickness isn't enough for the pistons to ever come out so its a non issue. I would have sprung for the s12w but the s13wbs came up local, cheap, and should work just as well. plan to use stoptech 12742034L/R rotors (cross drilled internally vented for 4lug 300zx) I'll probably nab a cheapy 300zx rotor from the local parts place for $30 for a test fit (and potentially return it) Sadly its a lot easier to buy parts than find time to put them on. But its been an adventure not knowing what parts are in the front of your car. Quote Link to comment
housew Posted June 12, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 12, 2014 got wheel studs pressed into one hub last night. That went great, but i literally only had 10 minutes to work on the car (overtime at the day job, newborn at home, many projects) I should have everything all set so i can start putting things back together (minus the adjustable LCA's. but those might be able to wait. I really want to drive this thing around, its been too long. Quote Link to comment
housew Posted June 17, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 17, 2014 stuff is going back together. sticking with my z car front brakes for now. At least until i feel like throwing money at rotors to test fit them. according to my math, swapping from the 2x54mm piston z calipers to the 4x45mm piston s13wb calipers is a 38% increase in hydraulic surface area (force / pedal travel) and they have bigger pads. This will shift my bias way forward, increase pedal travel (very little travel currently so this is welcome), and decrease pedal effort. Currently my brake bias is too far rearward, but i have no way of telling if 38% more front will be too much, too little, or just right. I'll probably need an adjustable proportioning valve as well to get it dialed in. Thinking along the lines of this: http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Wilwood-260-11179-Adjustable-Proportioning-Block,41747.html?utm_medium=CSE&utm_source=CSEGoogle&utm_campaign=CSEGOOGLE&CAWELAID=1268596776&CAGPSPN=pla&gclid=CjkKEQjwzv-cBRD_oY2PouKVvMIBEiQAKuGNCyjgHehAdBh-z7mzVdcUJaF-cz497_Yo_RhUlfUS3zfw_wcB Quote Link to comment
housew Posted June 17, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 17, 2014 Got the wheel studs pressed into the other hub, disks are back on and ready to go on the car. I removed and sandblasted one of the lower control arms. Hoping to cut it up and weld in the FUTOFAB DIY kit at some point in the next few days, get it back together, align it, and go play. 1 Quote Link to comment
housew Posted June 17, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 17, 2014 also picked up a wink mirror over the weekend. Need to figure out how i'm going to mount it and clean it up Quote Link to comment
housew Posted June 18, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 18, 2014 got my control arm all cleaned up and the line drawn where im going to cut it. Going to measure a couple more times to make sure i'll have the range i want (pretty sure i want +/- 3/4" from stock) and hopefully cut it and weld it. Oics to follow. Quote Link to comment
TENDRIL Posted June 19, 2014 Report Share Posted June 19, 2014 oics?!!! :rofl: 1 Quote Link to comment
housew Posted June 19, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 19, 2014 just for you tendril... cut showing the threaded stock not fitting in there (i knew it wouldn't, you can just see by how much) small notch cut in tube to clean the plate to make the sway bar bushing hole double thick pushed in place (threaded way far out, barley engaged) I'm going to thread it all back together and verify im in the length range i want (stock +/1 3/4"), take it all apart, poke a few holes in the top and bottom for plug welds, burn it all together, grind it up nice and smooth, finish cleaning it up with the sand blaster, and get some paint on it. Then adjust to stock length, install, and rinse and repeat on the other side. 1 Quote Link to comment
housew Posted June 19, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 19, 2014 progress is still stupid slow (talking <30 minutes a day) but it is happening. Quote Link to comment
Dime Dave Posted June 20, 2014 Report Share Posted June 20, 2014 House, Make sure you have plenty of thread engagement. When fully extended the distance between the jamb nuts must be no more than 1 1/2". Quote Link to comment
housew Posted June 20, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 20, 2014 sound good. I read your other post that said 3/4" minimum thread engagement. Which according to my enginnerdiness is less than i would like on a bolt that size anyways, but it should work. so i threaded them to 3/4" minimum thread and figured that was the max length i could adjust them. then i threaded them all the way in and that was the smallest length i could adjust them. there happened to be 1.5" of adjustment (which is huge) then i set them in the middle, measured and cut my arm so i would be stock length plus or minus 3/4" so at stock width i should be 3/4+3/8=1 1/8" thread engagement, and I need my arms shorter than stock (probably by 1/2" or so) so ill probably be around 1-3/8 engagement which im happy with. They are only together by a few threads in the pics, just to keep the parts together so i don't lose em :P Quote Link to comment
housew Posted June 23, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 23, 2014 not a lot of progress on the car this weekend. Did finish up one control arm and i reassembled the second strut. Stuffs going to start going back on the car real soon. Getting pretty excited about it. Quote Link to comment
housew Posted June 24, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 24, 2014 found out my front struts are probably s110 (79-83 200sx). Good to know. either way. and i got a glove box door on the way (hopefully) so that will eliminate 1 rattle if I ever drive it again :P Quote Link to comment
housew Posted June 27, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 27, 2014 last night i got my drivers side strut asy back together and in the car. to check ride height. Currently the jack went all the way down before the spring took the weight, so I will need to screw the spring perch up some. Not a big deal, no way to know where it needed to be without trying. side note, the wheel tucks beautifully. Still on the stock control arm on that side (need to take it out and modify) but the camber alone tucked it right in there. I wouldn't change anything on the drivers side, so i'll make the LCA adjustable, but need to leave it adjusted to stock length. i did some sand blasting on my toyota brake calipers. The more i man handle them, the more i think they are too big.... well see though. 1 Quote Link to comment
housew Posted June 27, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 27, 2014 WHOOPS! just impulse bought a repo SSS grille emblem :) Quote Link to comment
housew Posted July 1, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 1, 2014 got my badge last night, Looks great! Thanks hector, i don't know your SN, but you have the ratsun logo on your bidness card so you must be on here. got my glove box door in the mail last night as well. and i really only needed this piece (the rest of my door is in better condition, but was missing this piece entirely) Thank you L16B, I left you some positive feed back too :thumbup: Quote Link to comment
TENDRIL Posted July 1, 2014 Report Share Posted July 1, 2014 pretty sure that a 69 glove box door.... should work though :confused: Quote Link to comment
housew Posted July 1, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 1, 2014 pretty sure that a 69 glove box door.... should work though :confused: haha, yea, it will work mint on my 69 glove box :P Quote Link to comment
TENDRIL Posted July 1, 2014 Report Share Posted July 1, 2014 oh duhhh, i was looking at your car list under you gnome .... it says 70 510 Quote Link to comment
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