84720FourWheel Posted December 27, 2013 Report Share Posted December 27, 2013 Well, this Christmas season I got a few things... Some seat covers to cover those torn old seats. Tailgate hardware. No more reaching for the latches! And a pair of H4 conversion headlights. That make my highbeams run even when they aren't switched on... Still trying to figure that out. 1 Quote Link to comment
Bennn Posted January 5, 2014 Report Share Posted January 5, 2014 I have the same problem with my brights! Not a clue lol i was just gonna run everything on it's own switch If I couldnt figure it out lol looks good though! Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted January 5, 2014 Report Share Posted January 5, 2014 Sometimes headlights are wired differently than one would think, a good example is when converting from square to round headlights, the ground wire in the lights are in different places, so everything gets all screwed up. When I put a 720 wiring harness into my 521, I had to make pigtails for the headlight plugs to get them to work properly, as the 720 has square headlights, while the 521 headlights are round. I am not saying this is your problem, but my brights were always on just a little all the time, and when I hit the brights, as I recall, the regular lights went completely off. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted January 5, 2014 Report Share Posted January 5, 2014 Same here with a 720 square headlight harness in my round headlight 620. I pushed the pins out and switched them around and that solved the problem. However on these trucks the power goes to all the lamps when the switch is on. High or low beams are selected by how the ground is applied. If those new lamps have a metal case it will ground when tightened down and they will come on. I solved this by isolating the case from the pots with electrical tape. 1 Quote Link to comment
84720FourWheel Posted January 7, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 7, 2014 Same here with a 720 square headlight harness in my round headlight 620. I pushed the pins out and switched them around and that solved the problem. However on these trucks the power goes to all the lamps when the switch is on. High or low beams are selected by how the ground is applied. If those new lamps have a metal case it will ground when tightened down and they will come on. I solved this by isolating the case from the pots with electrical tape. The housing is made of glass. So that makes it seem like I would need to swap around some wires? Unrelated: I am planning on redoing the exhaust, would you recommend replacing the old cat, (there isn't smog inspections where I live) or leaving the old one, minus the worn components? What mufflers do you guys run? And do you keep the stock size pipes or go bigger? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted January 7, 2014 Report Share Posted January 7, 2014 The glass ones should work then. You say they are on when not switched on? That's not possible. The switch on the steering wheel has to be on to send power to the two fuses. If you mean they are all on when the switch is set to low beams only, then yes the pins MAY need to be swapped. Quote Link to comment
84720FourWheel Posted January 7, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 7, 2014 Sorry for being unclear. Yes the highbeams run when only the lowbeams should be on. Quote Link to comment
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