Hydraulic Clutch Woes

[HmrJak]

'73 510 2Dr coupe with L20B and matching dogleg. 

 

So bought the car about a month ago. It had been sitting for nearly a year, and the seller did have to bleed the clutch before I test drove it. It's been firm ever since then so I figured it was just a fluke of sitting or some tiny leak. That was until last week when it started to go softer. Finally lost the clutch completely a few days later. After reading my manual on the drivetrain and looking it over I thought it was the slave cylinder. Lots of oil in the boot and more every pump so I was thinking blown slave cylinder.

 

So ~$12 later at fcpimport.com and a week later I have an exact replacement slave. Well, spent about an hour manually (wrench, pedal, wrench repeat) bleeding the thing with a buddy and got nowhere. Picked up a speed bleeder and hit it for about another 15 minutes today. Getting nowhere. Air escapes every time, but still no pressure in the pedal at all. I noticed that if I hold the pedal to the floor I can see the brake fluid move in the speed bleeder very slowly.

 

So. Now I'm thinking I need a master cylinder as well. Pulling one from the local pull-and-pay tomorrow from either their 510 or one of the 620s. Gotta get this thing moving again. Looking at also purchasing a new one as well to have on the parts shelf. I've been hitting the forums and google and haven't found anything on this. When I went back to fcpimport looking they have these but I'm not sure if it's compatible. For reference, I have this style of clutch master but would REALLY prefer not to have to fork over even $75 for a master.

 

So besides looking over my shoulder, my question to you folks is: Will the OEM clutch despite it's single reservoir design work for me? Or do I need to find an original style one?

[Guest Rick-rat]

The Cylinder you show that you have is a brake m/c. I'm not 100% sure but pretty sure clutch m/c is just a single reservoir   The one you have in your post for the Beck Arnley is a good price. You could also check out Rock Auto for parts

[LenRobertson]

I agree with all Rick-rat posted. The clutch master cylinder should be a single chamber, unless the '73 is totally different than earlier 510s. I suppose someone could have installed a brake MC in place of the clutch MC. Maybe if one of the two outlets is plugged off it would work as a clutch MC. I don't know.

 

I believe Beck Arnley is considered a good brand, although I've never used anything from them myself. http://www.rockauto.com/ is worth looking at. They usually have several different brands and prices for a certain part. They are supposed to be good to deal with. I don't know about shipping charges and time from them.

 

I was in a hurry to get a clutch MC for my 510, so I got one from NAPA. It was a little over $30, made in China, and didn't even fit right. I had to hacksaw some off the threaded end of the push rod in order to get the slight amount of free play you must have at the pedal. I'm not saying all NAPA parts are a problem, but I wasn't happy with that one. I would have returned it, but I wanted to get the car going that day. After spending quite awhile figuring out what was wrong with the cylinder and sawing the push rod, I figured NAPA should have paid me $30 to use the damn thing. Not much chance of that though.

 

Len

[datzenmike]

The clutch master is to the left or further to the driver's side of the brake master. It's small and easily over looked. A Nissan master is over $100.Fill with DOT3 and re bleed and you should be good.

 

 

BTW a $12 clutch slave is a train wreck waiting to happen. Think about it... what do you thing they paid for it? $5??? The Nissan clutch slave kit is more than that. A Nissan slave is $60 so expect to spend at least $30 for an after market one. $12 is a Chinese POS so buy several so you don't get stranded.

[HmrJak]

Yeah horrible rookie mistake. There is indeed a clutch cylinder hiding back there. Bled but still soft gonna have to search for the threads on clutch adjustment.

 

The datsun came through in the clutch though. I'm updating from the ER room. Friend of a friend, all ok too. I'll update with my first pics of the beast tomorrow. I'll have to get some projects so I can keep the photos coming.

[hang_510]

you can find deals on ebay (=good quality) for around $40 shipped.

ive had mine for 4 years w/no issues.

 

i use 3 with my tandem setup, so 2 clutch MC are cheaper than the brake MC.

 

i didnt read if u replaced the hose, do that too!

[hobbes_the_cat]

^^^ yes the hoses can get soft and balloon when under pressure if they are old. Cheap and easy to replace. I think the last one I bought at orielys was $15.

[HmrJak]

Sorry for the delay. Close family was recently hospitalized.

 

Clutch is working awesome. datzenmike has me all paranoid though so I've joined the local z club for the discount on an OEM spare. Two birds one stone idea. Pictures as promised including the new damage. Lug nuts stripped out on driver's front tire while driving (interesting trip). Tire is fine surprisingly. Managed to get 5 lug nuts last night and limp home with a wobbly rear driver's according to my buddy. Need to raid the local stores to find the rest 2-5 at a time.

 

 

Got under the car this evening and it's really not that bad. The ball joint took the hit and ground for 20-30' and is still intact. It needed replacing anyways so I guess now I'm committed. I've been looking at the moog front end suspension pack (link). Pick up some bushings as well and follow the DQ guide on a front end rebuild.

 

 

The honeymoon is over and she has lots of work ahead, but I still love her.

 

[ggzilla]

Clutch is working awesome.

Glad to hear! What did the problem turn out to be?

[HmrJak]

Slave cylinder seals were blown. It's been doing fines with the aftermarket replacement.