rufusswan Posted November 8, 2013 Report Share Posted November 8, 2013 I buttoned up the 77 L20 a few weeks ago and it runs terrifically. I even installed an new electric dist for a 79, an easy afternoon job. So the other day, I decide to remove the oil pump to install a new gasket. I set the truck to TDC on the #1 cylinder, remove the dist. that I put in weeks ago, then pull the oil pump. Clean things up and then do a test fit as I check the olde Clymer as a reference. Looks good as the "small hemisphere" on the dist. end of things is pointing to the front. Cool. Then I fill the pump, install new gasket, set punch mark on the spindle with the oil hole and install, button up the dist cap and wires, and the truck starts right up. It however runs runs like the timing is WAY off. Long ago I adjusted the base plate mark with the mark on the dist mounting so that I could remove and reinstall and have the timing set damned close. Timing is so retarded that I can't even see the timing mark on the crank. I then DE-adjusted the base plate on the dist. and I can finally get 3 degrees advance, but that is all. I am stumped, so today I double checked everything. #1 cyl is at TDC, with dist installed rotor points to #1, dist cap is wired to #1. I have nothing to suspect except the dist itself and it stayed in the engine bay, it did not get dropped and you can advance it buy hand. About the only thing left to try is to install the old points dist which I don't want to do. I am going to drink a few beers. Quote Link to comment
Eagle_Adam Posted November 8, 2013 Report Share Posted November 8, 2013 your a tooth off on the oil pump drive gear. take your dizzy off and post a pic for me 1 Quote Link to comment
rufusswan Posted November 8, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 8, 2013 Here is the photo but it's from the front of the truck rather then the side. Any way, it is not exactly at 12 o'clock but actually about 12.07, so I guess I need to "to turn it back" one notch, to get things right. Will do in the morning as we are running out of sunlight here in the Ozark Mountains. So the Clymers shows a drawing with no exact terminology, so I performed an operator error. Thanks. Quote Link to comment
Eagle_Adam Posted November 9, 2013 Report Share Posted November 9, 2013 Happy to help, to post an pic on this forum you have to Post the IMG link Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted November 9, 2013 Report Share Posted November 9, 2013 TDC on the timing mark. Make sure your not at the wrong end. Should be at the 0 (zero) Lift dizzy out and this is what you should see... NOT 11:30/12:00 o'clock. The top of the drive spindle is slightly off set to the left side. (note:small side) Quote Link to comment
kelowg Posted November 9, 2013 Report Share Posted November 9, 2013 oil pump spindle rotates slightly when u insert it. in the future, use needle nose vise grips to hold it in place when pulling pump. 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted November 9, 2013 Report Share Posted November 9, 2013 This is how I preserved my timing when up-grading to a KA oil pump. Quote Link to comment
Dalesun Posted November 9, 2013 Report Share Posted November 9, 2013 This is how I preserved my timing when up-grading to a KA oil pump. Now thats some creativity there. Quote Link to comment
rufusswan Posted November 14, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 14, 2013 I agree, that's some good shade tree work there. Well I redrained the oil and installed the pump and spindle correctly and the truck is humming again. This all got started because I figured I had the truck at a confirmed 'baseline' and proceeded to installed my tach, volt and oil gauges, The oil gauge showed about 70-75 lbs. So I probably had a stuck relief valve in the pump. I did have to bang the pump on the workbench but the bypass valve did finally come out. It now shows about 55 lbs of pressure as it should. So the idiot lite was correct, I had pressure, but it don't say "you got too much pressure" B) Quote Link to comment
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