Buzzing Voltage regulator

[jaredperry]

Anyone have any ideas why its buzzing like crazy? Do I have a short somewhere or a faulty ground, or is my alternator a POS (Its new, as in under five miles new).

 

Dash lights dim / flicker 

Headlights flicker a little 

 

Also, if a piece of metal touches the chassis, there is a little bit of spark 

 

Apologies in advance for the newbness, but I don't know whats going on with this elderly vehicle. 

 

Thank you! 

[datzenmike]

Anyone have any ideas why its buzzing like crazy? Do I have a short somewhere or a faulty ground, or is my alternator a POS (Its new, as in under five miles new).

 

Dash lights dim / flicker 

Headlights flicker a little 

 

Also, if a piece of metal touches the chassis, there is a little bit of spark 

 

Apologies in advance for the newbness, but I don't know whats going on with this elderly vehicle. 

 

Thank you!

This speaks volumes. So why was it changed? Was it buzzing before?

 

 

There are internal and external (yours) regulated alternators. Are you sure that you replaced your old one with an externally regulated alternator? I say this because parts countermen aren't too bright. There was also a later HL510 car that did have an internally regulated alternator. So it's not a stretch to suppose that the wrong one was sold to you.

[jaredperry]

From what I remember the buzzing has been intermittent and has gotten worse/more apparent. The car was a shell with trashed motor when I got it and a fellow member on the forum helped me get everything in terms of electrical going.  

 

The external regulator is new and I have swapped the old one in and out and I have gotten the same results. 

 

In regards to the alternator, I matched it up to the one that came on the vehicle, so I would assume that it is the same. 

[datzenmike]

Internal and external look the same.

[jaredperry]

Dammit.  Ha ha.  How can I tell the difference then? 

[datzenmike]

Good question.

 

Factory alts. are marker LT1 if external regulated. And LR1 if internal. See if there is a label on yours.

[DanielC]

The Datsun alternators I have seen have either a "S" and a "L" marking by the small "T" shaped terminals, or an "F" and a "N".

"F" , "N" alternators require an external regulator.

"S" , "L" alternators are internally regulated.

 

A 1969 510 came with an alternator that required a voltage regulator.   In the last 45 years, that may have been changed.

 

Datsun ran a dedicated ground wire from the alternator frame to the body of the car.  This was a thick black wire from the alternator frame to a lug, that was bolted to one of the bolts that held the voltage regulator to the inner fender.  There is a possibility your car has been converted to an internal regulated alternator, and the voltage regulator was removes, and sometimes the ground wire from the alternator frame is removed.   This wire is very important, because many of the lights and other electrical items are grounded to the body, and without the ground wire, they will try to ground through any connection between the body of the car, and the engine.  Throttle cable, or linkage, choke cable, or anything else.  This is not good.

 

So identify your alternator.  you may need to remove it, to see the small letters by the T" connector.  While it is out, take it to a auto parts store that tests alternators.  See if it is good.   While removing it, make sure the black ground wire is still there,  Check both ends, if your car was converted to internal regulated, the wire MUST be bolted to the inner fender.  If the alternator test good, possibility the regulator is bad,

[jaredperry]

I know that there is no ground wire from the alt to the chassis.  Where exactly is this supposed to come from and to?  Any photos? I will have the alternator checked out in the mean time. 

[DanielC]

There is a small screw on the alternator, in a boss sticking out from  the case, with an "E" by it.  A wire goes from there to a bolt that holds the voltage regulator to the inner fender.  If no voltage regulator, bolt a ground wire to one of the bolts that used to hold the voltage regulator.  Datsun also had a wire crimped into the lug, that bolts to the cylinder head, that the negative battery cable is also connected to, that also went to the alternator frame.

[jaredperry]

In this case, what one is hot that goes to the starter and what one goes to the chassis/voltage regulator? The hole that is between the "B" pole and the spade is threaded.

 

 

Also, where is this white wire supposed to go? To the mounting bolt?

 

 

Hopefully all of these corrections that are to be made will fix the ignition light.

 

Thanks for all the help.

[DanielC]

That does not look like a stock 1970 Datsun alternator to me.   The "L" by the two terminals, arranged in a sideways "T" tends to amke me think that alternator is internally regulated, and a voltage regulator is not needed with that alternator.

There is also an extra connection across from the "B" terminal. and I do not know what it is for, or if it is necessary.

[datzenmike]

In this case, what one is hot that goes to the starter and what one goes to the chassis/voltage regulator? The hole that is between the "B" pole and the spade is threaded.

 

The threaded hole is for a bolt for a ground wire. They will sometimes work without one as the alternator is grounded to the block by the mounting bolts.

 

As to that alternator it's not familiar to me. The single lug recessed into the case is odd. Usually the Nissan Alternators have that twin plastic plug at the top, like yours. Then one black ground wire and one threaded power wire lug sticking out from the case with insulator ring around it like your B terminal.

 

Also, where is this white wire supposed to go? To the mounting bolt?

 

 

This is the wiring diagram for the stock 510 internally regulated alternator. The two dashed lines are what have to be done to convert for use with a later internally regulated alternator.

 

 

 

 

Hopefully all of these corrections that are to be made will fix the ignition light.

 

Thanks for all the help.

Are you saying your charge light on the dash is not working or on all the time?

[jaredperry]

Here is the label I never posted.

 

 

[jaredperry]

The dash "Ign" Light is always on/illuminated. 

 

The vehicle is a '69 so I dunno if that makes a difference. 

[datzenmike]

..... triple tested in China.

 

[jaredperry]

This makes me think its internally regulated because of the indication letters on the back of the alternator. 

 

http://www.z-car.com/blog/cars/converting-a-datsun-510-to-an-internal-regulated-alternator

[jaredperry]

Oh god, triple tested in China.

 HA HA! Right?!

[jaredperry]

So I wired it up like a internally regulated set up.  Tell me if I borked it up. 

 

"L" (Lower T terminal) got hooked up the to White with red wire (Illumination)

The upper terminal got connected to the lower "B" post then bridged over the starter and the Positive battery lead. 

White with blue wire was snipped (Thinking I should put this on the Electric choke, but not sure)

 

The Ign light is still on in the dash, but there is no more metal to metal sparking, so I guess thats a little progress. 

[datzenmike]

You unplugged the external regulator, right?

[jaredperry]

You unplugged the external regulator, right?

 

 

Yes.  The external regulator is not hooked up to anything. 

 

I am confused as to why my dash light is still on...

 

Not sure if relevant information, but my battery reads 11.78 Volts.  Could battery voltage or amperage cause the light to go on, or is it still hooked up wrong? 

[jaredperry]

So I took the car for a drive and after about 20 minutes the car just died. No power, so I had to jump it to get it back home. I am wondering if my alternator is bad. I am going to get it tested tomorrow. 

[DanielC]

Battery voltage should be above 12, with the engine off.  Engine running, 13.5 to 14.5 should be the voltage at the battery.

 

If DatzenMike did not recognize the alternator you have, and I did not recognize the alternator, you might not have a Datsun alternator.

 

The alternator you have might work, in whatever car was designed for an alternator of that type but it could require a different hook up than Datsuns provide.

 

Just an  opinion, but I think you might be better off with a used alternator from a junkyard, FROM A DATSUN, than trying to guess how this alternator should be hooked up.

[jaredperry]

Do you know a part number of an internally regulated alternator I could hook up in place of this one? Would like to keep the "T" harness.

[datzenmike]

Those Chinese pieces of junk are most often no good right out of the box. People buy them because they are cheap. Wrecking yard ones with 150K on them are always better.

 

Ask for any Datsun car '78 and up. All had the internal regulated alternator.

78-'79 200sx (S10)

'78-'81 HL510 (A10)

'78-'78 280z

'79-'83 280zx

'78-'84 810/Maxima

'80-'83 200sx (S110)

'78-210

[jaredperry]

All are bolt in and "plug / play" essentially?