aztekkuztumz Posted December 24, 2013 Report Share Posted December 24, 2013 Nice truck. If your interested in selling the spare weber let me know Quote Link to comment
Eagle_Adam Posted December 24, 2013 Report Share Posted December 24, 2013 Mike, from reading other threads it seems you don't like headers...Should I remove this one and go with stock? im gunna go with yes, yes you should Quote Link to comment
kevins750 Posted December 24, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 24, 2013 Can I use the one from my L16 or should I find one from a L20? FOUND THIS TODAY!! Quote Link to comment
Eagle_Adam Posted December 27, 2013 Report Share Posted December 27, 2013 i would go with the one from your L16, its the non smog mani so it doesnt have all the extra ugly crap on it Quote Link to comment
KlassicMotion Posted December 27, 2013 Report Share Posted December 27, 2013 In reference to your exhaust; the stock manifold is good.... But in either case, you will need to modify your exhaust pipe. The L20B is taller, so the pipe will probably not hook back up. Also, the stock pipe for the L16 was 1 3/4" if I remember right, and the stock pipe for the L20B is 2". You will want the 2" pipe on the L20B to get the best performance out of it.... 1 Quote Link to comment
kevins750 Posted December 28, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 28, 2013 Well the rest of my exhaust is toast ...I was going new anyway...I was thinking, I will probably break every bolt taking that header off the 20...Should probably leave well enough alone, if it doesn't leak after startup.... Quote Link to comment
KlassicMotion Posted December 28, 2013 Report Share Posted December 28, 2013 When removing bolts, hit them with some penetrating oil (obviously), but the trick is to tighten them first; Just a crack will do, then loosen them up. Works 99% of the time. Otherwise, you can heat them up with a torch to cherry red, then loosen. Quote Link to comment
kevins750 Posted December 28, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 28, 2013 the water neck was rotted out so I tried to remove it and broke a bolt, so I tried to remove the housing and broke a bolt also.....I got them out eventually but damn the are corroded bad....I will give your method a try... Quote Link to comment
KlassicMotion Posted December 28, 2013 Report Share Posted December 28, 2013 the water neck was rotted out so I tried to remove it and broke a bolt, so I tried to remove the housing and broke a bolt also.....I got them out eventually but damn the are corroded bad....I will give your method a try... In that case, try to crack them tight first, but if they don't crack tight, you will need heat. Quote Link to comment
kevins750 Posted December 28, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 28, 2013 We used to "shock" the bolt by hitting it with a hammer first then we would try to back it out.. Quote Link to comment
kevins750 Posted January 4, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 4, 2014 I have been sick for what seems like forever...Got stopped in the middle of the motor install, but I found this pic last week and noticed the bottom radiator hose Don't remember if I did this or if someone at the shop was helping me out..Is it not my bottom hose? Is it just reversed ?.Certainly this isn't correct? Quote Link to comment
kevins750 Posted January 7, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 7, 2014 Got the 20 in, put my 16 exhaust manifold on it and got the HEI going....got to finish exhaust and tidy up the wiring in the engine compartment and then on to the next job... Quote Link to comment
Eagle_Adam Posted January 7, 2014 Report Share Posted January 7, 2014 did you use high temp paint on the exhaust mani? Quote Link to comment
kevins750 Posted January 8, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 8, 2014 yes, Quote Link to comment
GRpufnstuf Posted January 8, 2014 Report Share Posted January 8, 2014 I have been sick for what seems like forever...Got stopped in the middle of the motor install, but I found this pic last week and noticed the bottom radiator hose Don't remember if I did this or if someone at the shop was helping me out..Is it not my bottom hose? Is it just reversed ?.Certainly this isn't correct? This looks like mine. I'll try to grab a pic tomorrow in the daylight. I had to trim mine down a little on both ends but it fits great and doesn't rub anything Quote Link to comment
kevins750 Posted January 19, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 19, 2014 1 Quote Link to comment
kevins750 Posted January 21, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 21, 2014 Put a fuel regulator on and I am using my Accel coil, see if there is any difference Quote Link to comment
KlassicMotion Posted January 21, 2014 Report Share Posted January 21, 2014 FYI, that fuel pressure regulator doesn't work below 4psi. I've got one. I put a fuel pressure gauge after it to test it. The weber is supposed to have 3psi max. I've got mine set to 3psi (on the 38DGES), with great results. I'm using the Weber Redline regulator and love it: http://www.carburetion.com/Products/ProductDetails.aspx?part=31800.063 This one has also been recommended on here, though I don't think I personally like this one: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hly-12-804/overview/ Here is what my setup looks like: http://community.ratsun.net/topic/56764-i-love-my-weber-38-dges-heres-my-38-dges-install/ Quote Link to comment
kevins750 Posted January 21, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 21, 2014 well crap, I guess I wasted my money on that one.... Quote Link to comment
KlassicMotion Posted January 21, 2014 Report Share Posted January 21, 2014 Me too. Sell it to a Chevy guy! Quote Link to comment
KlassicMotion Posted January 22, 2014 Report Share Posted January 22, 2014 This just popped up in the classifieds: http://community.ratsun.net/classifieds/item/2869-fuel-pressure-regulator-with-fitting-and-gauge/ Quote Link to comment
kevins750 Posted February 9, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 9, 2014 changed to Toyota steelies and put the fender badges on...My daughter and her friend pretending... Quote Link to comment
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