L-16 Tune-up won't run right...

[DanielC]

I have driven Ratsun almost 900 miles using a stock 5212 coil, and ballast resistor, and matchbox distributor.

 

I also have a 1970-1971 Nissan Emission control system service manual., if you have any questions about the not not needed switches on the clutch, transmission, the stock carb.

Nevermind, I just saw you have a 1973 truck.

 

PCV system, leave it stock.  Evaporative emission system, also leave it alone.  Your engine will run better when it is cold if you leave the hot air duct to the air cleaner in place.

I am not sure what other emissions equipment you have on your truck.

[datzenmike]

Cleary, just keep your eyes open for any '78 and up Datsun/Nissan car or truck to at least '85. They all had EI ignition and any one of those coils will work with your matchbox. This way you can snag one for free and slip it in when the weather is good next spring. The Z series motors in the 720 had two of them!!! You only need one.

[Figbuck]

I finally got back to working on my truck again. The last time I drove it, there was a stumble off idle and off trailing throttle... felt like it wasn't making power in low RPMs. 

 

What could that be?? The obvious is timing or the new distributer because that was what I was working on right?

 

Maybe the carb need tweaking... 

 

I got the idle mixture and idle set better. It fires right off, choke warms up right and returns to idle. No vac leaks and I shot it with carb cleaner. Timing is in the ball park. 

 

Still had the stumble. Feels like it ain't making power in the low revs. Past three grand it revs like crazy now and has good crisp throttle response!!

 

 

What could be the problem???

 

 

How about a back brake cylinder?

 

Nine thousand miles ago, new master, new rear drums, shoes, wheel cylinders. A couple weeks ago I bled the brakes and adjusted them. I pulled the rear drums off to inspect the shoes and they were barely worn... everything looked good and clean. I have always tightened them till the shoes grabbed, then back them off four clicks.  

 

Today I went to push it out of the carport a bit so I could have better light to see. It wouldn't roll! WTF! Over?

 

One of the wheel cylinders just failed and I was driving with a dragging brake!!! EWWW! brake fluid on everything... at least it didn't get on the shoes and drums.

 

 

Mike, things are looking up, my wife just got a 2012 Sentra with insurance money from our Accord that got totaled last April. Now I have a crunched up Honda to go chase parts with... it even has gas in the tank! Then I found a $47 credit for Pick 'n Pull in the maintenance log that I totally forgot about.  

 

So tomorrow I'm off to look for coils and some and other bits I need. I would love to put my windshield washer and horn back on the truck too.

 

The Sentra is a nice little car. 130 HP and Variable Control Transmission is very, very cool... surprisingly quiet ride and great sound system. We test drove Maximas and Altimas. Really liked the Altimas, but couldn't find one we could afford. She got a great deal and it's in showroom condition. The best thing she did was free oil changes for life... for like $150! Onward...

[Figbuck]

I went to CarQuest to get a rear hydraulic wheel cylinder. The guy says we have one at the warehouse, can have it here tomorrow. OK... How much?

 

He says, $15.39.

 

I say, that seems too cheap, what is the brand? I'm wondering if it's SANYO the same brand that just failed.

 

He says, Oh only good brands... usually they are the same manufacturers who make the OEM parts... I have never heard of any problems with them.

 

So, the next day I go to pick them up and get half way out the door when I stop and turn around. I tell a different guy... I better look at it to make sure it's right. It looks like maybe it could work... but it's not like identical at all. He says, What is the vehicle?

 

He looks it up again and says, Oh that is for a 610 they shipped the wrong one.  There is one at the Saint Helens store, I can have it here tomorrow afternoon... it's $25.29!

 

So I go back and keep working to fix some little things and clean stuff. I'm looking at the back of the head and there has been oil leaking out of the valve cover. The rear bolt on the driver side is not compressing the lock washer completely and I don't want to crank on it any more.

 

A few days ago I drilled and tapped both rear holes on the top of the head to the next bigger size, 7 x 1.0 mm. On the passenger side there is a lip so the drill and tap go through and come out the bottom, pretty easy to do. The driver side seemed like it needed to be threaded just a little bit more. 

 

 

So very carefully I drill into the head another quarter of an inch. So far so good. I spin the tap a half turn, back it out, clean the shavings and spin it another half turn. Then the tap begins to turn really easily...

 

oh fuck... coolant starts leaking out the hole!!! I just cut into the water jacket!!

 

 

I'm not having anything go right. Now what? 

 

 

Can I drain the coolant, fill the bottom of the hole with JB Weld or some magic epoxy? Is there a ghetto fix, better fix? 

 

I think I just burned what little momentum I had. I had to quit and come inside. I can't stop and I can't go. 

[datzenmike]

Drain and degrease with brake cleaner and fill the hole with $6 worth of JB weld, no problem. Drill and tap for the correct original bolt. The last threads you cut will assure that it ain't comin' out.   Good to go.