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Fuse Box Nightmare Sorted!


muller27x

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And this is my solution. 2 over the counter fuse blocks from Advance. One for battery/alt sourced, and the other for ignition sourced. Rather than find additional lengths of color and stripe coded wire, I used the correct solid color wire and use the appropriate colored electrical tape for the 'stripe'. Now most everything works in the truck! Next I just need to make a mounting bracket for them and that headache will be checked off of the to-do list

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No, thank you though. I probably would have gone with a stock replacement if the harness wasn't melted and the wires weren't hack jobbed. This setup will serve it's purpose and more. With the additional circuits, I can add in small accessories (door poppers, switch box, etc) without too much headache. 

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A quick suggestion.  I would wire the fuse block that is turned on by the ignition switch through a relay.  Use keyed ignition power for the ignition only, and the coil of the relay that powers the switched fuse block.

This will take all the added accessory electrical loads out of the ignition switch.

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A quick suggestion. I would wire the fuse block that is turned on by the ignition switch through a relay. Use keyed ignition power for the ignition only, and the coil of the relay that powers the switched fuse block.

This will take all the added accessory electrical loads out of the ignition switch.

I used the wire that sourced the fuse box originally. Should I go back in and relay it or is the stock setup that way already?
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There are several accessories that are only supplied power when the key is on.  Most of those accessories get power through the ignition switch.  I am not a 620 expert, but I think the heater fan might already have a relay, but I am not sure.  

Since you set your truck up with two fuse boxes, one always hot, one ignition hot, you could easily wire the ignition hot fuse box with a relay.

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