Okay did my brakes the other day now the brake light goes on every time I press them

[Datsunrider71]

Have any of you had this Issue?

[flatcat19]

Brake switch loose? Loose wire in that circuit?

Fluid full?

Properly bled?

Floats stuck?

Reservoirs dirty?

[Datsunrider71]

It'll leaks from the back but it did mark the light till I changed the shoes In the front. the reservoirs are dirty

[flatcat19]

Huh?

 

Have you checked it out?

Any more information to to give?

 

 

Or did this problem happen and you went inside to be given an answer?

[Datsunrider71]

Huh?

 

Have you checked it out?

Any more information to to give?

 

 

Or did this problem happen and you went inside to be given an answer?

Okay I change my front pads then the light came on so I started to check them i found out the rear break think was leaking but it been leaking before I did the job so I wonder why did the light came on after I did the brake job.

[flatcat19]

If the brake fluid is still low light will be on.

 

 

 

What steps have you taken to diagnose things.

I don't want to give you ideas of things that you have already done.

Stop being vague.

[Datsunrider71]

Noting I need some Pointers

[KlassicMotion]

I have heard of weird issues like that, but it's been so long ago I don't remember what the out come was. 

 

Did you check the level of the fluid like flatcat19 suggested?

 

I'd suggest fixing your leaking wheel cylinder, and re-bleed your brakes.  Or if you don't want to fix the wheel cylinder right now, just bleed your brakes and see what happens.

[datzenmike]

First make sure your parking or hand brake is fully OFF.

 

Your year of 510 has a dual master cylinder with two completely separate braking systems... one for front and one for rears. This is a safety feature so that a failure in one does not affect the other and there is not total loss of brakes. Although braking is reduced.

 

There is a pressure switch between the two systems. As long as there is equal pressure in both front and back systems the switch stays neutral, but if one system fails the pressure difference trips the switch and warns the driver.

 

 

Okay I change my front pads then the light came on so I started to check them i found out the rear break think was leaking but it been leaking before I did the job so I wonder why did the light came on after I did the brake job.

.

Not sure what the 'rear brake think' is but I sure as hell know what a leak is. The braking system is the single most important safety device on your car. If you have a leak get it fixed. The red light is simply doing it's job as it was designed to do.

[Datsunrider71]

I have heard of weird issues like that, but it's been so long ago I don't remember what the out come was.

 

Did you check the level of the fluid like flatcat19 suggested?

 

I'd suggest fixing your leaking wheel cylinder, and re-bleed your brakes. Or if you don't want to fix the wheel cylinder right now, just bleed your brakes and see what happens.

The front one is fine but the back one is empty.

 

Okay I will do that thanks KM

[datzenmike]

On a dual master cylinder the 'front' reservoir is actually for the rear brakes. The rear one is for the fronts. The master casting will have a large F and R cast into it.

[Datsunrider71]

First make sure your parking or hand brake is fully OFF.

 

Your year of 510 has a dual master cylinder with two completely separate braking systems... one for front and one for rears. This is a safety feature so that a failure in one does not affect the other and there is not total loss of brakes. Although braking is reduced.

 

There is a pressure switch between the two systems. As long as there is equal pressure in both front and back systems the switch stays neutral, but if one system fails the pressure difference trips the switch and warns the driver.

 

 

.

Not sure what the 'rear brake think' is but I sure as hell know what a leak is. The braking system is the single most important safety device on your car. If you have a leak get it fixed. The red light is simply doing it's job as it was designed to do.

Thanks for the info DM.

 

Yeah I always make sure of that, but the light isn't on while I'm driving its when I press the brakes but like you told me my car has a Pressure switch that's the reason why it's doing it now. I just wonder why it started doing it after the brake job mmm.

 

The brake thing.. Is this

 

 

http://i1345.photobucket.com/albums/p667/71PLDriver/null_zpsf6669261.png[/

 

Just going to buy both side and kill two Wheel Cylinder with one ratchet :oD

[datzenmike]

When you replaced the front pads you just pressed the caliper pistons back in, took out the old pads and installed new ones? Can't see that causing the light to come on. Unless you had to bleed the fronts and air got in. Just coincidence the back was leaking and it got too low.

 

On a vehicle this old I would bleed the complete system and replace all the brake fluid with new. That stuff does not last forever. Was the fluid in the reservoirs discolored???

[Datsunrider71]

When you replaced the front pads you just pressed the caliper pistons back in, took out the old pads and installed new ones? Can't see that causing the light to come on. Unless you had to bleed the fronts and air got in. Just coincidence the back was leaking and it got too low.

 

On a vehicle this old I would bleed the complete system and replace all the brake fluid with new. That stuff does not last forever. Was the fluid in the reservoirs discolored???

I just did that nothing else I didn't bleed them

 

Yeah it's kind of discolored

[nerdistmonk]

I just did that nothing else I didn't bleed them

 

Yeah it's kind of discolored

 

anytime you remove the calipers out of their location you bleed the brakes after you put it all back, then bleed them some more. Thats a critical step that can get you killed if you skip it, thats what mike was driving at that, he doesnt want to see someone die because of cut corners, no one on ratsun wants to send a person out on the road in a vehicle that could get them hurt, your datto doesnt want you to get hurt either but it doesnt get much say in the matter.

 

The act of moving the caliper off the brake rotor allows air into the system since theres no longer a rotor for that piston to press against, if you dont bleed the system it will not work right, or it wont work at all air cant stop your car, you need brake fluid brother.

 

Also a leak is exceptionally bad, your brakes hydraulics are meant to be a sealed circuit, a closed system, no air, no water, no holes most importantly.

 

Nothing loads up a pair of undies faster than pressing that brake pedal and nothing happens. :w00t: :poop:

[flatcat19]

^

What?

 

If you don't introduce air into the system-air will not get into the system.

Replacing pads and putting them back does not mean it is time to bleed.

 

Replacing hydraulic parts/introducing air in to the braking system means it is time to bleed. 

 

Removing calipers from the torque member will NOT let air into the system. No way; no how.

Removing the hose or opening the bleeder will introduce air into the system.

 

To original OP:

Find what is leaking. Fix what is leaking. Bleed entire brake system. Enjoy.

[nerdistmonk]

^

What?

 

If you don't introduce air into the system-air will not get into the system.

Replacing pads and putting them back does not mean it is time to bleed.

 

Replacing hydraulic parts/introducing air in to the braking system means it is time to bleed. 

 

Removing calipers from the torque member will NOT let air into the system. No way; no how.

Removing the hose or opening the bleeder will introduce air into the system.

 

To original OP:

Find what is leaking. Fix what is leaking. Bleed entire brake system. Enjoy.

 

:confused:  at that, even if im wrong (and i may be, but i still bleed them anytime i even breath on my brake hardware), recommending against it like its bad advice is in poor taste, theres nothing at all wrong with bleeding your brakes even if you think they dont need it, thats just being safe minded, but its your keister in the end so to each their own, my post was my opinion so in the end do it how you feel it should be done. :thumbup:

[datzenmike]

I've simply used the old pad to protect the piston face and compressed them back into the caliper with a large C clamp. Watch out, because the returned fluid may over flow the master reservoir. Then just slip new pads in. You must pump the brakes several times to bring the new shoes in contact with the rotor before driving. Made that mistake only once!!!!

 

If the fluid is over three years old, discolored or there is obvious signs of overheating of the rotor, now is the time to add to the reservoir and pump it through. Myself I would avoid pumping the master dry as this introduces air (which is hard enough to remove) but also may damage the seals inside. Much better to gently pump the pedal and force the old out with new.

[flatcat19]

Bleeding just for the hell of it isn't safe.

If bled properly when needed, does not need to be done again, until needed.

 

Obviously OP is having a bad spell trying to get his brakes fixed.

Don't lay advice that will create confusion.

 

Bleeding when not needed is an unnecessary step. 

Don't introduce air if you don't need to.

 

If not broke, don't fix it.

@monk: your "opinion" stated that if someone only replaced pads without bleeding they would kill themselves.

Stop being incorrect and I will stop correcting you.

[Boaty]

I disagree with "If it's isn't broken, don't fix it"

We fix it anyhow, to make it better.

You could just wash your car, but you know if you wax it it'll last a hell of a lot longer. ;)

[flatcat19]

I disagree with "If it's isn't broken, don't fix it"

 

We fix it anyhow, to make it better.

You could just wash your car, but you know if you wax it it'll last a hell of a lot longer. ;)

 

*mod

 

And waxing the car is why I had kids.

[nerdistmonk]

If it isnt broken, dont fix it is the biggest logical fallacy of all time in my book, when someone says that it just makes me want to go take something apart and fix anyways even if it was running fine.

 

Preventative maintenance is what keeps you off the side of the road, the whole principle of fixing it BEFORE it breaks goes against the saying "if it aint broke, dont fix it"

 

Im sorry sir but in southern indiana where there is approx 7 nissan hardbodies as july 2013, and no autoparts stores in my area carry any parts for my truck, you better believe i fix everything well before it breaks, if i dont know an items history it gets dismantled, inspected, and mostly likely replaced.

 

Before winter gets here i need to pull my dash, pull my heater core, make sure its clean and then replace all of the heater hoses, radiator hoses and the thermostat. Why? because it isnt broken, which worries me, in 28 years it hasnt broken and this winter might just be the year it decides to break.

 

Im always on the watch. :ninja:

[flatcat19]

How can something be "fixed" if it is in fact not broke?

 

At that point you're just fucking with it.

 

 

Does anyone take their head gasket out and put extra silicone on it before it leaks?

The fix it before it breaks mantra is BS. Convince yourself all you want.

It isn't real.

 

I believe in preventative maintenance. Beyond that it's just a waiting game. 

[KlassicMotion]

How can something be "fixed" if it is in fact not broke?

 

At that point you're just fucking with it.

 

 

Does anyone take their head gasket out and put extra silicone on it before it leaks?

The fix it before it breaks mantra is BS. Convince yourself all you want.

It isn't real.

 

I believe in preventative maintenance. Beyond that it's just a waiting game. 

 

I didn't want to get involved in your guys' love affair here, but I can't not question:  "Does anyone take their head gasket out and put extra silicone on it before it leaks?"

 

Head gaskets go on DRY.  I don't want any Noob getting on here and seeing that, then proceeding to put silicone on their head gasket.

[flatcat19]

:rofl: