where to buy a legitimate weber?!

[bryant2482]

i have been doing alot of research and its looking like my weber is a fake! it started giving me problems about 5 months after i put it in. i need to know where i can buy a authentic branded weber. it will be going on a 85 napz motor

[Toyanvil]

http://www.webercarbsdirect.com/Carburetor_Conversion_Kits_s/25.htm?gclid=CO2F-8v2vLgCFZB_QgodHQsAWg

or

 

http://www.piercemanifolds.com/category_s/336.htm

[datzenmike]

Expect to pay about $300 for one.

 

So what's wrong with yours that you think it's a fake?

[nerdistmonk]

you'll know its real if it has a weber stamp on it in the metal, the fakes also are around $160ish whereas a real weber is $279 or higher (my 32/36 was $289 or so, the 38 is $320)

 

 

Also webers are finicky creatures, i learned that soon after buying this one, part of that because i bought one thats just a little too small for the z24, the z24 really needs the 38/38 for it to really be living. I need to rig a cheap way to open both barrels at the same time on this thing, they have a kit but for $50 thats too much...might as well save up and go big.

[KlassicMotion]

Webercarbsdirect is where mine came from.  It's real and real good.

 

http://www.webercarbsdirect.com/Carburetor_Conversion_Kits_s/25.htm?gclid=CO2F-8v2vLgCFZB_QgodHQsAWg

 

I've got an L20B with the 38 DGES.  I just got the float set properly, and swapped some jets as per the instructions, and I absolutely love it!!

[Datsunrider71]

What's the Difference Between 32/36 and a 38 weber?

[KlassicMotion]

http://www.redlineweber.com/html/Types/making_the_right_choice.htm

 

http://www.redlineweber.com/html/application_guide/making_the_right_choice_32.htm

 

32/36 is good for around town driving with decent mpg.

 

38/38 is better for low to mid torque.  Good all around fun, on and off road.

[Datsunrider71]

So I'm going with the 38

[EricJB]

There really is no fake weber. The original was made in Italy. In the early nineties they moved production to Spain. That is the one you want. MAKE SURE it was made in Italy or Spain.

 

The "fake" Webers are made in China for an American company that is licensed by Weber. So it is still a Weber, just a piss poor version. Stay away.  Italy or Spain only. 

[hobbes_the_cat]

Empi makes "fake" webers. They are made in china or Taiwan but they are stamped "empi" Not "weber". I have never seen a carb stamped weber that wasn't real. I would like to see a pic of this fake one being talked about.

[datzenmike]

http://www.redlineweber.com/html/Types/making_the_right_choice.htm

 

http://www.redlineweber.com/html/application_guide/making_the_right_choice_32.htm

 

32/36 is good for around town driving with decent mpg.

 

38/38 is better for low to mid torque.  Good all around fun, on and off road.

.

Generally correct. The stock Hitachi is a compromise to give the best economy, performance and emissions. They are somewhat small but well suited for the motor size they are on. A larger carb can be less restrictive and you will gain some power because of this but if big were better then we would all be running 1150 Holly carbs on our 2.0 liter motors... and we don't. They are simply too big to run well.

 

The 38/38 is more of a V6 carb so the larger your 4 cylinder the better. Your motor must be able to draw enough air through it to make it work properly. At low speeds the sudden opening of a huge double barrel 38mm carb is a monster vacuum leak and the motor will fall flat. 38/38s work best if you 'step into' it slower rather than suddenly and practice will show you how much and how soon. The 32/36 is a vacuum secondary that opens when the motor needs it and not when you say. It is much less likely to fall on it's face when stepping on the gas in too low a gear.

 

NEVER over cam or over carb your motor.

 

So I'm going with the 38

.

If you have a stock motor 510 I wouldn't. Even a 32/36 is a bit much for them.

 

 

 

 

Empi makes "fake" webers. They are made in china or Taiwan but they are stamped "empi" Not "weber". I have never seen a carb stamped weber that wasn't real. I would like to see a pic of this fake one being talked about.

 

 

Holley also made them under license. One advantage is that all Holley jets fit and are cheaper easier too find/get.

[Datsunrider71]

.

Generally correct. The stock Hitachi is a compromise to give the best economy, performance and emissions. They are somewhat small but well suited for the motor size they are on. A larger carb can be less restrictive and you will gain some power because of this but if big were better then we would all be running 1150 Holly carbs on our 2.0 liter motors... and we don't. They are simply too big to run well.

 

The 38/38 is more of a V6 carb so the larger your 4 cylinder the better. Your motor must be able to draw enough air through it to make it work properly. At low speeds the sudden opening of a huge double barrel 38mm carb is a monster vacuum leak and the motor will fall flat. 38/38s work best if you 'step into' it slower rather than suddenly and practice will show you how much and how soon. The 32/36 is a vacuum secondary that opens when the motor needs it and not when you say. It is much less likely to fall on it's face when stepping on the gas in too low a gear.

 

NEVER over cam or over carb your motor.

 

.

If you have a stock motor 510 I wouldn't. Even a 32/36 is a bit much for them.

 

 

 

 

Holley also made them under license. One advantage is that all Holley jets fit and are cheaper easier too find/get.

So what should I get for my L16 DM?

[datzenmike]

Well you could get a 38/38, but I think you would be happier with a 32/36 for the smaller L16. When you 'get into it' only the primary barrel opens up fully and as the motor revs up and more air is needed the secondary begins to open. We tend to see our cars as full throttle accelerating machines and want every last hp we can get out of it. Often we fail to take into account how well it should drive for the remaining 99.9999% of the time and what a pain in the ass it is when we don't. I think for the street this is better and easier to drive around on, more... drive able.

 

I recently drove a stock 510 with only a 32/36 on it and it was fine, with a slight bog at low speeds or gears.

[Datsunrider71]

Well you could get a 38/38, but I think you would be happier with a 32/36 for the smaller L16. When you 'get into it' only the primary barrel opens up fully and as the motor revs up and more air is needed the secondary begins to open. We tend to see our cars as full throttle accelerating machines and want every last hp we can get out of it. Often we fail to take into account how well it should drive for the remaining 99.9999% of the time and what a pain in the ass it is when we don't. I think for the street this is better and easier to drive around on, more... drive able.

 

I recently drove a stock 510 with only a 32/36 on it and it was fine, with a slight bog at low speeds or gears.

So the 38/38 is to big for my L16 and will make it bog out okay I'll go smaller then.

 

I just want my car to have more power.

[datzenmike]

The 32/36 will certainly do that. You might get away with a 38/38 if you had more compression, bigger valves bigger cam and generally a head that needed more fuel and air. For stock motors you don't want to stray too far away from the stock size carb.

[Datsunrider71]

The 32/36 will certainly do that. You might get away with a 38/38 if you had more compression, bigger valves bigger cam and generally a head that needed more fuel and air. For stock motors you don't want to stray too far away from the stock size carb.

Cool i'll just buy a 32/36, but if I ever build my L16 I'll go bigger thanks DM!

[nerdistmonk]

only the z22, z24 and ka24 can use a 38/38 effectively, the older motors a 32/36 is a big step up from whatever they had. you being L16 mike is right, 32/36 will suit it fine.

[Datsunrider71]

only the z22, z24 and ka24 can use a 38/38 effectively, the older motors a 32/36 is a big step up from whatever they had. you being L16 mike is right, 32/36 will suit it fine.

Okay thanks nerdistmonk well do!

[bryant2482]

whats better for the z24 32 or 38?

[KlassicMotion]

whats better for the z24 32 or 38?

 

My L20B is stock other than a header and this carb and I love the 38.  You've got .4 more liters than me, I'd think it would do well on yours.

 

I just wrote this up last night;  I'm not sure how much it will help you, but you can read the comments after the write-up...

 

http://community.ratsun.net/topic/56764-i-love-my-weber-38-dges-heres-my-38-dges-install/

[datzenmike]

I think the 32/26 would still be a good carb for a Z24 here's why... The L16/18 and to a lesser extent the L20B are cable of 6K with a proper carb. The Z24 head was never designed for this and runs out of steam at a much lower RPM. An L16 at 6K draws the same amount of air as a Z24 at 4K.  The 38/38 drawbacks would be less of a problem with a larger motor. 

[nerdistmonk]

well mike my z24 is underpowered on the 32/36, i need a 38 and will be buying one when i save up the cash

 

i have my mixture cranked way past normal for it to idle smooth and it runs sort of slow, its ok but the 38/38 is what was called for in the original conversion directions i used and i see why now. Its not just the fact that the jets are too small, its that a 32/36 is basically a 1 barrel for 90% of the throttle you have to floor it to open both up, and believe me with my 32/36 passing cars is a well thought out process you dont have much extra juice on this thing.

 

 

edit: i will go time my 0 to 60 acceleration eventually.

[bryant2482]

i do alot of driving within the city limits. im hardly ever on the freeway. i know the 32/36 is good on gas but lacks a bit in the power it provides. so im thinking about the 38/38 and what i would like to know is how much better will it be in city driving conditions?

[nerdistmonk]

you'll be able to accelerate better for sure since its a real two barrel in synchro and not a progressive like the 32/36 but expect a hit in your city mileage.

[KlassicMotion]

I see merit in both Mike's and Monk's statements.

 

I think the 32/26 would still be a good carb for a Z24 here's why... The L16/18 and to a lesser extent the L20B are cable of 6K with a proper carb. The Z24 head was never designed for this and runs out of steam at a much lower RPM. An L16 at 6K draws the same amount of air as a Z24 at 4K.  The 38/38 drawbacks would be less of a problem with a larger motor. 

 

Bryant, what Mike is telling you, is great theoretical knowledge and you should definitely take his recommendation into consideration.  That's knowledge that I was unaware of, and it makes good solid sense.  I've seen theoretical knowledge disproved when is comes to carburetion, but I think I'd take Mike's advice on this one.  Especially if you will be doing most in town driving. 

 

On that note, if your doing most of your driving in town, how often are you going to rev the engine past 4K?  Probably not much, so with the 38/38,  you may see more low end torque, which is what a truck needs.

 

Consider what Monk is saying, which ever carb you go with, buy the Weber jet kit that is sold for that carb.  You will most likely have to re-jet which ever carb you buy to suit your engine. I just had to re-jet mine.  I had to read the instructions a couple times to fully understand what I needed to do.  If you find yourself needing help, PM me and I will give you my cell number.

 

One more thing to consider;  The 32/36 has an idle circuit shut off switch that comes installed on the carb.  The 38 does not.  Some guys, and I had the issue initially before setting my float and jets, have the problem of the engine "running-on" or "dieseling" when shutting it down.  This is especially true if you have an open chamber head.  I believe most of the guys are having the issues, because they don't have a fuel pressure regulator, or proper float adjustment, but the possibility is there.

 

well mike my z24 is underpowered on the 32/36, i need a 38 and will be buying one when i save up the cash

 

i have my mixture cranked way past normal for it to idle smooth and it runs sort of slow, its ok but the 38/38 is what was called for in the original conversion directions i used and i see why now. Its not just the fact that the jets are too small, its that a 32/36 is basically a 1 barrel for 90% of the throttle you have to floor it to open both up, and believe me with my 32/36 passing cars is a well thought out process you dont have much extra juice on this thing.

 

 

edit: i will go time my 0 to 60 acceleration eventually.

 

Monk, if you have the mixture screws not within 3/4 out or 1.5 turns out, then your not doing yourself any good.  I don't know which way you are, but I assume you are more than 1.5 turns out which is too lean.  You need larger idle jets.  You would probably see great gains if you played with the jets before you swapped out the carb.  Or, you could swap out the carb and sell bryant2482 your 32/36 cheap!... Just a suggestion.