Ka24de swap help

[A_rod510]

Ok I'm getting ready to purchase a ka24de from a guy on CL and I wanted to know what I will need to complete the swap , he says it's a full swap including tranny but I want to know if I need to keep any parts from the original engine . Because here's the story when I first purchased the 510 I have it was completely gutted out it was about 70% rust free but completely gutted the guy I bought it from threw in a old L16 engine with tranny and couple other part like grills ,drive shaft ,bumpers . Mostly all the body parts that will make the Car look nice but the engine bay was completely gutted and all he gave was a old l16 with tranny so I'm not sure on what ill need to purchase or get out of the ka owner and what ill need to purchase for the 510 to have it up and running . I know that there's the option of flipping the crossmember or making a custom oil pan I think I'll go with the crossmember flip I also know ill need engine mounts and a tranny support but my main concern is parts such as wiring harness and all those other parts ill need inside the engine bay . Because I don't want to make stupid purchases . So if someone could help me out on this . I'm a newbie in the datsun 510 world so any help would really be appreciated . Thanks

[A_rod510]

Here are some pictures of my 510

 

 

 

[Trophy24]

Get as much of the engine and transmission related items as you can.  Your original drive shaft can be used after some mods.  Make sure you get the engine wire harness, computer, air intake, air flow meter/filter set up and trans/shifter/trans mount.  There are lots of how to threads on here you should read before you proceed.

Try this one for starters:

http://community.ratsun.net/topic/746-ka24de-info/

[A_rod510]

Thank you ill look at it and what mods would have to be made to the drive shaft ?

[Trophy24]

Shorten and rebalance. Remove the front slip yoke dust shield and it will slide right in. A good driveline shop in your area can spec the measuring method.

It is one of the last things you will do during the swap.

[datzenmike]

No such thing as a full swap. This can only happen (maybe) if you have the two cars side by side and swap parts. This is a major undertaking for someone who has never done this before on a 510. Some things will be 'one offs' custom made parts. This is, however, a well documented swap by others so I would suggest researching KA swaps on our search function. Even a 620 swap will have some ideas. Another place to search is The 510 Realm. Research is the key not asking generalized questions like 'what do I need to do'. You will need to become an expert just to know the correct questions to ask. 
 
 
Me? I would get it running with an easy L series motor first and enjoy it. Later make your plans for a swap. Too many bite off more than they can chew and the unfinished car is sold... maybe what happend to this one?

[Boaty]

There are lots of parts you need from both vehicles, unless you want to fab stuff up yourself.

Do yourself a favor now, and buy yourself a nice new throttle cable. Which one? I don't remember, but, it was brand new. Nice and smooth. I am using a 240sx throttle pedal assembly modified to fit into the stock 510 mounting position, slightly bent for better brake pedal clearance, and the throttle cable itself then has to be mounted correctly, adjusted, spaced (mine was slightly too long). Don't forget about your exhaust. 2.25" will be a near clearance fit in an unmodified crossmember. 2.5" would be ideal for a KA. In the future, I will run 2.5" minimum, might go as far as 3" if I decide I want it turbo-ready in the future.

 

Engine mounts. I used McKinney mounts, which are great. Do. Not. Buy. Polyurethane. You will hate it. The entire car shakes so bad that you can't hold a conversation at idle because everything is buzzing. Glove box comes to mind.

Lets not forget wiring, if you know nothing about wiring - this is one of those things you buy a wiring-friendly buddy a 30-pack for.
Fuel pump... 1/4" outlet/return on the stock 510 tank would be sufficient, maybe, but I would run 5/16". Which requires some fancy work, or you do what most people do - grab the 240sx gas tank assembly, mounting ring, take it down to a competent TIG welder/fab shop and have them fabricate it all together for you. Don't forget the baffle, or you'll be sucking air on corners. Not good. Definietly a no no with boost.

 

Cooling isn't cheap if you want it to be high grade and look pretty too. Ron Davis radiators are pretty, but a lot of money. $6-700 range. But, top of the line.

Driveshaft has already been discussed.

Heater plumbing (if applicable)

Intake. I use a 90* elbow off the throttle body, and it works fine. Others use flex tube. Some use a CAI tube across to the hot side of the engine. Seems legit.

 

Don't forget the maintenance side. Gaskets. Required work. Water pump. Thermostat. Alternator. Battery relocation. The 'look good' stuff.

Did I mention a foot of EFI hose is about the same cost as the required amoutn of regular hose in your entire 510? Stuff isn't cheap. And you'll be using a considerable amount of it.
You have a fuel line, and a return line. You'll be hard-lining the underside of your dime.

Do yourself a favor and remove the originals, and when you run the new 5/16" or 3/8" line, (go with 5/16....) run it straight forward and up the firewall, not up over and because of bump, in the fenderwell... and then under the battery tray. No clue wtf Datsun was thinking with that setup, much cleaner (cheaper) and elgant to just run it straight up the firewall.

 

Oh. And remember your start signal needs to be powered in the START position, not switched power with the ON position. Or else you'll lose power to the distributor while cranking, but it'll work fine in the ON position. Just a heads up, that baffled me for an entire freakin' day.

[Boaty]

And I'll let you just *ponder* how much all this cabling cost me.
Hint. Well over $100.