Dats goin to the ER soon aka my garage lol

[Datsunrider71]

I'm hoping that's your attempt at a joke. Of course that's bad.

 

Where exactly is it leaking from?

 

Pics???

I'm not ill take some pics later on

[Datsunrider71]

In your case the leak isn't especially bad since it is just another sign of the bad head gasket. The leak will be fixed with a new gasket, if you do everything right replacing it.

 

Be sure you understand about wedging the timing chain before removing the bolt through the cam sprocket. If the chain loosens enough to let the chain tightener pop out then you will have to remove the front cover.

 

You probably know this already but I'll mention it just in case. Datsun head bolts are a 10mm Allen head, not a hex head. So you need a 10mm socket bit to remove and that fits your torque wrench to tighten them. Also, there are two hex head bolts low on the front of the head that go into the front cover that are easy to overlook.

 

Len

Good morning guys.

 

Wedging the timing chain how do I do that?. Going to change the water pump as well and I have to take off the front cover to change the gasket it looks like I have a leak also there too that's why I was Concern about that gasket braking on me the one that dude was talking about on the video..

 

Kinda off topic but I am changing the real main seal and I'm wondering where I'm going to find the clutch alignment tool.

 

I have to do the diff gasket as well any pointers I should know before doing it?

 

And thanks will find a 10 mm L that fits the Torque wrench..

[LenRobertson]

Here is a thread on timing chain wedge: http://community.ratsun.net/topic/41595-timing-chain-wedge/

On the first page of this thread you have scans from a book that looks like "How to Keep Your Datsun Alive". That must have a good section on wedging the chain.

 

I just did a search on Autozone: http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/1972-Nissan-Datsun-510/Clutch-Pilot-Alignment-Tool/_/N-ipm01Z6o2b7

They show an alignment tool for $3.99. There are probably other parts places in your area that have them if you don't have Autozone there. They showed several different Nissan tools, so don't buy just any one for a Nissan.

 

Usually an alignment tool comes with a clutch kit. If you have a leaky rear seal, I wonder if you might have an oil soaked clutch disc? Check around and see if any parts supplier has a clutch kit available in your area so you know where to go if you need one. I think a new clutch kit is around $100, so you might want to get one and just plan in putting it in. http://www.rockauto.com/ is a good source of parts if you can't find stuff locally. Probably cheaper too.

 

I don't know anything about replacing the rear seal, so can't tell you what you might run into. I know on an L20b there is the seal around the crankshaft and also rubber inserts on each side of the rear main bearing cap. I don't know if these rubbers ever leak or not. Again, if you have the "Datsun Alive" book, I think there is a good section on the rear seal. If you don't have that book, you should get a copy.

 

No idea on the rear diff gasket. I'm hoping I don't ever need to find out. I suppose you undo the rear U-joint and take the big nut off to remove the yoke, then unbolt the front of the diff, but have no idea what to re-torque that nut to. You might as well replace the seal at the yoke as long as you have it apart. Probably somewhere here on Ratsun is a post on getting into a rear diff. Worth doing a search anyway.

 

Len

 

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

If the rear seal doesn't leak, I would leave it alone. They are kind of tricky to get installed and you can screw it up pretty easily.

 

The clutch alognment tool can be made by wrapping black electrician's tape around a wooden or metal dowel until you get the desired size to fit (A)- the pilot bushing in the back of the crank and B - the splined bore in the clutch disc.

[LenRobertson]

If the rear seal doesn't leak, I would leave it alone. They are kind of tricky to get installed and you can screw it up pretty easily.

 

The clutch alognment tool can be made by wrapping black electrician's tape around a wooden or metal dowel until you get the desired size to fit (A)- the pilot bushing in the back of the crank and B - the splined bore in the clutch disc.

Absolutely agree on the seal. If it isn't leaking, let it be. It isn't impossible to have a leaky rear main, just not very common. And you want to be sure any leak you see at the back of the engine is really the rear main seal and not running down from somewhere else.

 

Len

[Datsunrider71]

If the rear seal doesn't leak, I would leave it alone. They are kind of tricky to get installed and you can screw it up pretty easily.

 

The clutch alognment tool can be made by wrapping black electrician's tape around a wooden or metal dowel until you get the desired size to fit (A)- the pilot bushing in the back of the crank and B - the splined bore in the clutch disc.

My car is leaking something in between the block and the Tranny it's all wet back there and I always have to add oil and I don't think my car is burning it because I don't smell it.

 

 

Okay thanks for the tip that sounds good to me.

[Datsunrider71]

Here is a thread on timing chain wedge: http://community.ratsun.net/topic/41595-timing-chain-wedge/

On the first page of this thread you have scans from a book that looks like "How to Keep Your Datsun Alive". That must have a good section on wedging the chain.

 

I just did a search on Autozone: http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/1972-Nissan-Datsun-510/Clutch-Pilot-Alignment-Tool/_/N-ipm01Z6o2b7

They show an alignment tool for $3.99. There are probably other parts places in your area that have them if you don't have Autozone there. They showed several different Nissan tools, so don't buy just any one for a Nissan.

 

Usually an alignment tool comes with a clutch kit. If you have a leaky rear seal, I wonder if you might have an oil soaked clutch disc? Check around and see if any parts supplier has a clutch kit available in your area so you know where to go if you need one. I think a new clutch kit is around $100, so you might want to get one and just plan in putting it in. http://www.rockauto.com/ is a good source of parts if you can't find stuff locally. Probably cheaper too.

 

I don't know anything about replacing the rear seal, so can't tell you what you might run into. I know on an L20b there is the seal around the crankshaft and also rubber inserts on each side of the rear main bearing cap. I don't know if these rubbers ever leak or not. Again, if you have the "Datsun Alive" book, I think there is a good section on the rear seal. If you don't have that book, you should get a copy.

 

No idea on the rear diff gasket. I'm hoping I don't ever need to find out. I suppose you undo the rear U-joint and take the big nut off to remove the yoke, then unbolt the front of the diff, but have no idea what to re-torque that nut to. You might as well replace the seal at the yoke as long as you have it apart. Probably somewhere here on Ratsun is a post on getting into a rear diff. Worth doing a search anyway.

 

Len

 

Thanks bro for all your help and I'm going to read that book... I'm going to buy my parts and stuff I

Need today and ill let you know how everything goes wish me luck lol.

 

Los.

[Datsunrider71]

Absolutely agree on the seal. If it isn't leaking, let it be. It isn't impossible to have a leaky rear main, just not very common. And you want to be sure any leak you see at the back of the engine is really the rear main seal and not running down from somewhere else.

 

Len

I'm just going to clean it with brake cleaner and see where it's coming from.

[Datsunrider71]

No luck guys couldn't find the stuff I need :/

[hobbes_the_cat]

Be sure to have a machinist check the head for flatness. If you're spewing coolant from between the block and head I'll bet it's warped and needs to be shaved flat.

[Datsunrider71]

Be sure to have a machinist check the head for flatness. If you're spewing coolant from between the block and head I'll bet it's warped and needs to be shaved flat.

Damn don't tell me that :(

[hobbes_the_cat]

Better to check while its off than do the whole job and have it leak at the same spot when you start it up. I've had that happen and I'll never do it again. always check if the head is flat before reassembly. Local machinist should check it with a straight edge for free or VERY cheap. My buddy's warped L series head was only $60 to mill flat at our local shop. Not too big of a deal.

[Datsunrider71]

Better to check while its off than do the whole job and have it leak at the same spot when you start it up. I've had that happen and I'll never do it again. always check if the head is flat before reassembly. Local machinist should check it with a straight edge for free or VERY cheap. My buddy's warped L series head was only $60 to mill flat at our local shop. Not too big of a deal.

 

I was. I didn't expect that to happen I didn't let it get to the red but I guess stuff happens and I know where's one that we go to too bore out our motors they do a good job and they charge 40 bucks to do it.

[Xnke]

Make sure, if you cut the head, to get it straightened FIRST. This allows them to remove as little material as possible to get it straight and flat. They will need to remove the cam towers and machine both the top and bottom faces of the head, and you will need to know exactly how much got cut...anything more than 0.020" total removed will need a cam tower shim or a pair of shims, should the total cut exceed 0.040". That's the reason for straitening, it allows for the minimum possible material removal.

 

If you have a warped head, then mill the bottom surface flat, the top surface is still warped. And now you're going to be bolting your cam towers back on top of a curved surface, which will then force your cam into a bent shape. I can continue the detail over what happens next, but we'll leave it as a "very not good un-fun bad day" situation.

 

And before anyone here goes on about "don't remove the cam towers, you can never get them re-aligned because they were line-bored at the factory after being bolted on"...Your main bearing caps were line-bored at the factory too, but no one bats an eye about removing those, do they? It's a standard service procedure, and that's just all there is to it.

[Datsunrider71]

Make sure, if you cut the head, to get it straightened FIRST. This allows them to remove as little material as possible to get it straight and flat. They will need to remove the cam towers and machine both the top and bottom faces of the head, and you will need to know exactly how much got cut...anything more than 0.020" total removed will need a cam tower shim or a pair of shims, should the total cut exceed 0.040". That's the reason for straitening, it allows for the minimum possible material removal.

 

If you have a warped head, then mill the bottom surface flat, the top surface is still warped. And now you're going to be bolting your cam towers back on top of a curved surface, which will then force your cam into a bent shape. I can continue the detail over what happens next, but we'll leave it as a "very not good un-fun bad day" situation.

 

And before anyone here goes on about "don't remove the cam towers, you can never get them re-aligned because they were line-bored at the factory after being bolted on"...Your main bearing caps were line-bored at the factory too, but no one bats an eye about removing those, do they? It's a standard service procedure, and that's just all there is to it.

 

So in other words its not a Simple fix then..

 

 

Why to I have to know how much they cut?

 

milling???

 

So don't take off the cam caps okay.

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

If the head is warped, you have to remove the cam towers so you can cut the top of the head too, otherwise the cam won't turn and you'l either stick it to the cam tower or the cam will break. What Xnke is saying is to have them try to take some of the warp out of it a bit first, before you cut it, then maybe you wouldn't have to cut the top of the head.

 

A good machine shop should know all this. If they don't, I would look for someone who does.

[Datsunrider71]

If the head is warped, you have to remove the cam towers so you can cut the top of the head too, otherwise the cam won't turn and you'l either stick it to the cam tower or the cam will break. What Xnke is saying is to have them try to take some of the warp out of it a bit first, before you cut it, then maybe you wouldn't have to cut the top of the head.

 

A good machine shop should know all this. If they don't, I would look for someone who does.

Okay will do thanks bro. I'll let you know what happens

[Datsunrider71]

 

That's the leak I don't know if you can see it

[LenRobertson]

I'm terrible at seeing things it pics, so I have to ask - where is that on the engine? Side of the block (which side)? Next to tranny? Does it appear to be an actual crack in the block, or something running down from somewhere up higher? Is it leaking coolant or oil? Probably everyone but me sees exactly what the problem is, but I need more info.

 

Len

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

Looks like driver's side of the motor at the front. Are you sure the thermostat housing isn't leaking?

[Datsunrider71]

 

I'm terrible at seeing things it pics, so I have to ask - where is that on the engine? Side of the block (which side)? Next to tranny? Does it appear to be an actual crack in the block, or something running down from somewhere up higher? Is it leaking coolant or oil? Probably everyone but me sees exactly what the problem is, but I need more info.

 

stoffregen motorsports is right it's coming from the front driver side.

 

I don't see a crack and its coolant not oil.

[Datsunrider71]

Looks like driver's side of the motor at the front. Are you sure the thermostat housing isn't leaking?

I was thinking that but the Bolts r tight.. Do you think the gasket is at fault??

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

There are two gaskets associated with the thermostat housing, and they're certainly easier to replace than a head gasket. I would start there.

 

And are you sure the bolts are tight or are the frozen? Can you loosen them? If you can't, be careful. Those bolts are notorious for freezing up and breaking off.

[Datsunrider71]

There are two gaskets associated with the thermostat housing, and they're certainly easier to replace than a head gasket. I would start there.

 

And are you sure the bolts are tight or are the frozen? Can you loosen them? If you can't, be careful. Those bolts are notorious for freezing up and breaking off.

I haven't try to take them off and hopefully their not freez up. but I will when I come out of work later on

 

But if its that what is my car heating up ummmm.

[LenRobertson]

But a leak at the thermostat housing wouldn't cause oil in your radiator. At least I can't picture how, but it is early in the AM and I haven't had much coffee yet. So I think you still have a bad head gasket or intake manifold gasket. Maybe all three.

 

If the thermostat housing bolts don't come loose with a reasonable amount of force, would it be useful  to heat the heads with a torch? Or is it too far in to the threads so the heat just goes out into the head? Anyone have an opinion on this? If the bolts do break loose, but are hard to unscrew, I'd spray them with PB Blaster and let soak for awhile.

 

Len