Janksun Posted June 22, 2013 Report Share Posted June 22, 2013 If I shave and weld this up? Quote Link to comment
620Turbo4X4 Posted June 22, 2013 Report Share Posted June 22, 2013 You would have excessive condensation in the engine oil and a massive vacuum in the crankcase, That is the vent for the PCV valve. Without this and the PCV valve, there would be no air circulation in the engine, and water (a bi-product of combustion) will develop in the oil. (milky gunk) Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted June 22, 2013 Report Share Posted June 22, 2013 Yup. The PCV systems were installed around '62 ish. A totally fantastic and simple system for keeping the insides of the motor cleaner by removing combustion blow by gasses that got past the rings. Gasses that included water vapor, burnt and unburnt gas and oil, emissions such as sulphur dioxide, carbon dioxide.... all of which condense when the engine cools or just collects in the oil or on internal surfaces. Cleaner oil means extending intervals between oil changes. Before the '60s you were very lucky to have a motor go 100K miles. Quote Link to comment
jvb5577 Posted June 25, 2013 Report Share Posted June 25, 2013 I was always wondering since everyone removes the PCV valve if just putting a filter on the end of it is sufficient enough? What would be the best way to hook it back up without a stock air cleaner? Quote Link to comment
heretic Posted June 25, 2013 Report Share Posted June 25, 2013 Funny you brought this up Janksun. I was just looking at a spare valve cover & toying with the idea of moving it to the rear to "hide it better" Yes you could put a little filter on it....... it is the "intake" for the circulating air of the PCV system. Quote Link to comment
jvb5577 Posted June 25, 2013 Report Share Posted June 25, 2013 Thanks! I like this idea about moving it the the back. Going to have to look into it :D BTW nice valve cover! Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted June 25, 2013 Report Share Posted June 25, 2013 Funny you brought this up Janksun. I was just looking at a spare valve cover & toying with the idea of moving it to the rear to "hide it better" Yes you could put a little filter on it....... it is the "intake" for the circulating air of the PCV system. . It is the intake of fresh air to replace that sucked through the PCV valve at idle and moderate speeds, but at high speeds, acceleration or on very worn engines there are more combustion blow by gasses than can be removed, the sytem backs up and over flows OUT the valve cover vent. This is why the hose should go to the base of the air filter. Those gasses are sucked into the carb and burned. Those funny little filters won't stop smells from getting into the cab and any oil droplets will saturate the filter and dribble onto the valve cover. At the least the engine compartment has an oily film on it just like a kitchen with a deep frier and collects dust. There are baffles under the top of th valve cover to help collect oil droplets and spray from the valve train. If moving to the rear you will need this feature or the oil dripping will be worse. Quote Link to comment
heretic Posted June 25, 2013 Report Share Posted June 25, 2013 agreed & the internal baffling is what has slowed me on chopping up a perfectly good valve cover. There are baffles under the top of th valve cover to help collect oil droplets and spray from the valve train. If moving to the rear you will need this feature or the oil dripping will be worse. Quote Link to comment
EricJB Posted June 25, 2013 Report Share Posted June 25, 2013 I got tired of dealing with that breather hose every time I retorqued the head and adjusted the valves (after every race), so I did this. The tube has 3 baffles in it, and is now one with the timing cover plate. The fitting is threaded into the valve cover. A little heat to soften the epoxy and it turns right out. The problem is, it is a weird thread pitch, and would be a challenge to pipe plug as I did without getting chips in the baffle, which you will need to retain. The baffle is screwed on to the valve cover with lots of epoxy as well, and could be R and R d. 1 Quote Link to comment
heretic Posted June 25, 2013 Report Share Posted June 25, 2013 I like your style. I'm willing to bet not a lot of oil can be pushed/migrate that direction, especially with the large diameter of your "breather tube" limiting the velocity. I got tired of dealing with that breather hose every time I retorqued the head and adjusted the valves (after every race), so I did this. The tube has 3 baffles in it, and is now one with the timing cover plate. The fitting is threaded into the valve cover. A little heat to soften the epoxy and it turns right out. The problem is, it is a weird thread pitch, and would be a challenge to pipe plug as I did without getting chips in the baffle, which you will need to retain. The baffle is screwed on to the valve cover with lots of epoxy as well, and could be R and R d. Quote Link to comment
heretic Posted June 25, 2013 Report Share Posted June 25, 2013 Playing devils advocate..... EricJB's engine is similar to what A LOT of guys run on the street. Assuming this & the proximity on the brake/clutch reservoir(s) limiting "proper" air filters I pose jvb5577's original question........ "What would be the best way to hook it back up without a stock air cleaner?" Quote Link to comment
EricJB Posted June 25, 2013 Report Share Posted June 25, 2013 Originally I was going to put it at the front of the valve cover, but I got lazy. I also plumbed the header for a crankcase evac valve, but it worked so good it pulled oil out at high rpm's. So I am building a baffle box for it as well. I completely agree that a stock (ish) motor should retain the factory set up. I was just answering the OP's question. I change my oil every 10 to 12 passes anyways. Quote Link to comment
EricJB Posted June 25, 2013 Report Share Posted June 25, 2013 Playing devils advocate..... EricJB's engine is similar to what A LOT of guys run on the street. Assuming this & the proximity on the brake/clutch reservoir(s) limiting "proper" air filters I pose jvb5577's original question........ "What would be the best way to hook it back up without a stock air cleaner?" That is actually from a screen door, haha. I got some shit for that, but it keeps the big chunks out. If you can get a filter on, just drill a hole in the base and plumb it there. Quote Link to comment
heretic Posted June 25, 2013 Report Share Posted June 25, 2013 Ditto. I completely agree that a stock (ish) motor should retain the factory set up. I was just answering the OP's question. Quote Link to comment
heretic Posted June 25, 2013 Report Share Posted June 25, 2013 hahahahahaha I BET you did.!!! That is actually from a screen door, haha. I got some shit for that, but it keeps the big chunks out. If you can get a filter on, just drill a hole in the base and plumb it there. Quote Link to comment
heretic Posted June 26, 2013 Report Share Posted June 26, 2013 hahahaha no setting straight .... its all just info & good info at that. Well my bad, I thought the original question was asked by Janksun ... thanks for setting me straight! :angel: 1 Quote Link to comment
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