Datsun 210 stumbles from stop

[mkmskm]

I got a new to me 210 last month with the 1.5L and automatic and the carb on it was original and the car had not been driven much. I got a rebuild carb from National and it idles fine, runs at speed great, but when warm stumbles when you start out in low and then goes away as it shifts into second. I'm not sure what to adjust for this.

[Tristin]

You will want to look at the accelerator pump. Its what helps squirt a little gas in when you go from idle to higher revs like youre taking off from a stop. Make sure its functioning right, the rubber bellows isnt cracked and such. You should be able to lift it up and actuate it and see if gas squirts into the bowl. Youll need to remove the air cleaner to look down inside. 

[mkmskm]

Yes it does, in fact after cycling that a couple of times when I started the car it was momentarily flooded

[datzenmike]

Good call on the pump. But seems ok. Take the cap off the distributor and suck on the hose going to the vacuum advance. The rotor should turn clockwise and hold until you release it. Engines with light throttle like lots of advance. Maybe the vacuum advance is stuck or the diaphragm leaking.
 

Lol yeah, that can happen. Have you made sure there are no vacuum leaks? You can spray some soapy water around all the areas where gaskets are and such. Wherever there are bubbles, youve got a leak.

Except a vacuum leak would suck it in. :lol:

[Tristin]

Yes it does, in fact after cycling that a couple of times when I started the car it was momentarily flooded

 

Lol yeah, that can happen. Have you made sure there are no vacuum leaks? You can spray some soapy water around all the areas where gaskets are and such. Wherever there are bubbles, youve got a leak. 

[mkmskm]

The vacuum advance didn't work. I took my little hand vacuum pump for bleeding brakes and connected it to the hose and when I squeeze the handle it starts to move and then goes right back, and it barely moves at that.

[mkmskm]

Any trick on removing the vacuum advance? I undid the screw but it feels like it's hanging up on something when I try and pull it out

[datzenmike]

Yeah likely you'll have to take the rotor and the plate that holds all the EI stuff off to un plug it.

[banzai510(hainz)]

ck the 2nd dary on the carb also. make sure its still closed while the main carb buttley is open.

 

on weber DGVs theirs a spring to keep the 2nd butterfly from opening to soon this will give a vacuum LOSS.

stock carbs its a vacuum 2ndary and should also stay closed. untill the vacuum to so great it will open

[LenRobertson]

I'm not sure the info is exactly the same for A-series dizzies, but Jason Gray under "Disassembly" may be worth a look: http://newprotest.org/projects/510/jasonGrayDistributor.pl

I remember the "special screw" he mentions from when I changed the vacuum advance on an L-series dizzy. It was just dumb luck I saw it was a different screw. I'm surprised I didn't drop it and lose it.

 

I thought I had a page Bookmarked on tearing down a matchbox dizzy, with lots of pics. I must have lost it in a computer crash. I thought it was linked from Jason's page, but don't see it there. Does anyone have anything like this they can post a link to? Or am I having another false Datsun memory?

 

Len

[LenRobertson]

I found the page I was thinking of: http://web.archive.org/web/20041207181339/www.jrdemers.com/280ZX/distributor/distributor.html

 

I recall when I removed the vacuum advance, it took a lot of twisting and wiggling to get the arm to come out of the dizzy body. But it finally did. I don't think I had to remove anything inside the body except the screws through the arm. I'll have to try it again this weekend on a spare dizzy to refresh my memory.

 

I also remember the A-series and 4-cylinder L-series dizzies are pretty much the same, except for the drive end and advance weights. So Jason's info should be good for a 210.

 

Len

 

 

[mkmskm]

Thanks. I have a new advance coming from Rock Auto and it should be here Monday and I'll check the secondary out. This was a one owner car and is super clean, but it wouldn't go over 62 without surging. With the new carb it made it to 75 on the freeway with no issues, now I just have to get this corrected. Heck, the AC even works.

[Toyanvil]

If it still does it after you install the new advance, check the float level, if it is to high it will run like that.

[mkmskm]

I got the new vacuum advance in and that fixed the stumble.   It still idles too fast but it gets from a stop up to speed as well as a Datsun 210 automatic is going to.   Thanks for the help!  The old advance was not only shot, but stuck in position,.