1972 Goon valve adjustment, still clicking

[Jasper]

There has been a ticking noise since I bought the car, and I've been focusing on other things to get it on the road, but now its time for the motor.

 

I had adjusted the valves per my Nissan FSM for a Datsun 710. I think it was Intake 0.010 and Exhaust .012. I set it cold, because I'm new to adjusting valves. The clicking sound persisted, and I found an old thread on here where someone suggested Intake .006 and Exhaust .008, so that's what it's at now. To be honest, I'm not even sure if it sounds any better.

 

 

I'll try to give as many clues/symptoms as I can:

 

• Motor is L18 block with W58 head.
• Motor was rebuilt before I bought it, but I'm not sure how extensive. The inside of the valve cover was spotless, and the cam looks like new. Motor produces no smoke.
• When the RPM's increase, the clicking sound goes away.
• When I bought the car, the oil level seemed way too high, well above the marks on the stick. Drained, new filter, new oil.
• I know for a fact the thermostat was broken. Currently running it without a thermostat while I figure out whats going on.
• Not sure if it matters, but there is an exhaust leak at the lower manifold where the pipes meet. Clicking sound doesn't come from this though.
• This may just be my imagination, but the clicking sound seems louder on the drivers side than it does on the passenger side in the engine bay. Could possibly just be that there is more room for it to echo/amplify on that side though.

 

Any ideas? :confused:

[datzenmike]

It's 0.010" and 0.012" HOT. Always try to set them hot as it's more accurate. There is a cold setting but this is more for when rebuilding or if the head was disassembled and needs a starting point. Warm the engine up for 20 min first. To get the job done faster before the motor cools off too much set at TDC and adjust the following valves...

Intake #1

Exhaust #1

Intake #2

Exhaust #3

 

Now turn the motor exactly ONE turn and adjust...

Exhaust #2

Intake #3

Intake #4

Exhaust #4 and you're done and you don't have to spend all that time bumping the motor around.

[racerx]

I think that was Hainz (Banzai) that said .006 and .008.  Have you checked your timing?  What weight oil are u using? You can also get a long metal bar or really long screw driver and while the car is running, you can cuff the screwdriver end to your ear and touch the valve cover with screw driver and you will hear which valve is clicking more.  Then move the metal tip of the screwdriver along the valve cover and keep in mind which general area is ticking the loudest.  Good luck.

[racerx]

forgot to say could also be an exhaust leak.

[Silky_Johnson]

Is the valve train stock?  I had aftermarket stuff and didn't know it, including reground cam, heavier springs, thicker lash pads, and aftermarket retainers.  As it turns out, everything was fine except that the tops of the lash pads were set in below the tops of the retainers.  This caused a horrendous ticking/clicking noise.  It sounded like a diesel.  I swapped out to a stock cam and valve train and the problem went away.  I miss the feeling of the cam, so as soon as I get correct components, it's going back in.

[mike]

Check your fuel pump... Also, double check your valves and see if they stay in spec. 

 

A noisy fuel pump will sound like valve train noise and if your valves are out of spec you might have a bad seat on one of your valves. Was your oil really thin and did it smell like gas when you drained it? 

 

If youve got a factory timing gear, it is fairly easy to check if your chain is still in spec. If it is stretched it can cause a bit of a racket when it hits the timing cover.

[Jasper]

Thanks for the help everyone! :thumbup:

 

 

The timing chain is completely slack. I've been looking down in there from the top of the timing cover with a flashlight, and I can see the bottom sprocket. It seems like there is no timing chain tensioner! :rofl:

 

I guess whoever put this thing together lost it, or just didn't know what the hell they were doing. I'm guessing the clicking sound I'm hearing is the timing chain rattling around. Chain looks brand new, as does the sprocket. Time to remove yet ANOTHER front timing cover to investigate whats going on. Hey, at least this time I don't have to worry about all the emissions crap!

 

Also, it does seem like the fuel pump spring may be a little weak. The one on the truck was a lot stiffer.

[datzenmike]

The tensioner is behind the chain so you won't see it looking down below the sprocket.

[Silky_Johnson]

Also, it does seem like the fuel pump spring may be a little weak. The one on the truck was a lot stiffer.

 

Hey man, there's no reason to be ashamed or embarrassed for having weak spring.  It happens to the best of us.  Talk to your doctor.

[Jasper]

The tensioner is behind the chain so you won't see it looking down below the sprocket.

 

I'm pretty sure it has no tensioner. I mean, I can wiggle the chain a little bit near the top sprocket, and I can see it moving on the LEFT side of the bottom sprocket. You'd think that the spring for the tensioner would at least be visible in there.

[datzenmike]

You can't see the spring either as it's inside the plunger. The round thing on the left is like a piston andthe spring and it are inside the body of the tensioner when installed.

 

This one has obviously popped out of it's bore. But when properly installed the spring loaded rubber shoe bears against the outer side of the chain. You may see some of the shiny plunger but this picture below is the only way you will ever see the spring.

 

[Jasper]

Figured I'd leave an update.

 

The timing chain tensioner was in front of the timing chain. Re-adjusted the valves when they were hot, and everything seems to be running good.

 

 

Also, a fun fact. The tensioners spring was completely screwed up, no good way to fix it. As it turns out, the hammer spring from a Spyder paintball gun is about the same size(I used to play a TON of paintball, and still have boxes of parts all over my room). The gauge was a little thicker, and the diameter was a tiny bit smaller, and the spring overall was a wee bit longer. Despite all that, it fit in there good and the tensioner functioned properly before I put the cover back on. Ran the car for about 3 hours and so far so good.

[datzenmike]

Now that's ratsun right there...

[oldskoolvws]

I seriously believe in Prolong. It's an expensive additive but it quiets everything down and the running gear is definatley smooth. I do the initial dose of a quart (just did it my new 22RE motor). It's good forever after that, but I add a couple capfuls at each oil change.