L20b Questions

[DATSTON]

I'm currently ordering a new distributor cap, rotor, spark plugs, and spark plug wires.  is there anything else i should replace as a preventative maintenance?  i just picked up my 620 with an L20b in it and i want to make sure everything is good.  previous owner claims that the carb was rebuilt this past september.

[DATSTON]

already have another question.  im not sure where my L20b came from, but would it be safe to buy spark plugs for an L20b that came from a 78 620?  the NGK spark plugs for the L18b and L20b are different.

[DATSTON]

already ordered.  lets see if it works lol.

 

 

1978 NISSAN 620 PICKUP 2.0L L4 Ignition : Spark Plug   NGK Part # 7131 {#BPR6ES} Standard
.032; OEM/OES Spark Plug B $1.53 $6.12 Engine : Oil Filter   BOSCH Part # 3500 Premium; O.D. 3.78"; Inside Diam/Thread 3/4"-16; Height 5.14"; Gasket Attached

[datsunaholic]

They should all be the BPR6ES (or BPS5ES, if you want a hotter plug).

[DATSTON]

got it, i should be fine then.  thanks for verifying. 

[Ratwagon1600]

I'm currently ordering a new distributor cap, rotor, spark plugs, and spark plug wires.  is there anything else i should replace as a preventative maintenance?  i just picked up my 620 with an L20b in it and i want to make sure everything is good.  previous owner claims that the carb was rebuilt this past september.

 

I assume your changing oil and oil filter as well as the fuel filter?

 

Depending on your budget, a new coil wouldn't hurt

 

You might also want to consider flushing the cooling system and new coolant/antifreeze

 

Radiator cap

 

Check your fan belt for any obvious signs of fatigue or wear (generally if they are worn out they'll be hard and brittle and have obvious cracks in them)

 

Check the battery water

 

Totally up to you of course (and how much money you have spare)

[DATSTON]

I assume your changing oil and oil filter as well as the fuel filter? Depending on your budget, a new coil wouldn't hurt You might also want to consider flushing the cooling system and new coolant/antifreeze Radiator cap Check your fan belt for any obvious signs of fatigue or wear (generally if they are worn out they'll be hard and brittle and have obvious cracks in them) Check the battery water Totally up to you of course (and how much money you have spare)

sounds good, those will be next on my list.  taking baby steps for now.  thanks for the suggestions.

[banzai510(hainz)]

if coil is fine dont change it. If you do make sure its the exactly same for the model year of vehicle you order.

 

You change to much at once it might not start up then youll as your self which broke it!!!!!

[DATSTON]

lol yea ill be taking baby steps.  i work on the weekends as well at a tattoo shop so i dont have the time to do anything big over the weekends.  not now at least.

[racerx]

don't change coil unless it's bad.  Save your money.  What about checking rear end/gear oil, water hoses, vacuum hoses, brake hoses and buy a book if you don't have one.  The book should tell you the reg. maintenance schedule.  Good Luck.

[racerx]

oh forgot to mention check your fan belt also, coolant (clean/dirty)...

[Ratwagon1600]

Yeh sorry Hainz and racerx, what would I know.

 

Ive only owned Datsun 1600s for 27 years and have been racing and rallying them for 25 years.

 

My bad.

[racerx]

I don't know that much neither but why change the coil if it's not bad?

[datsunaholic]

Well, I've had Datsuns slightly less time (24 years) but I have well over 500,000 miles in them, and I've had a grand total of ONE factory coil go bad.

 

I've also had 4 aftermarket ones, put in by prior owners for that blingy new "High Output" coil, go bad.  Fortunately I had old factory ones from parted-out cars ready to replace them. But I've had decent luck with a couple aftermarkets that came with cars, too.  Coils are something that just don't go bad that often unless they're abused (running 12V to a ballast-required coil, for instance.  Or leaving the ignition on and the engine not running for extended periods.  Or racing.  That's hard on everything).

 

There's other stuff more important than replacing working parts.

[Ratwagon1600]

Well, I've had Datsuns slightly less time (24 years) but I have well over 500,000 miles in them, and I've had a grand total of ONE factory coil go bad.

 

I've also had 4 aftermarket ones, put in by prior owners for that blingy new "High Output" coil, go bad. Fortunately I had old factory ones from parted-out cars ready to replace them. But I've had decent luck with a couple aftermarkets that came with cars, too. Coils are something that just don't go bad that often unless they're abused (running 12V to a ballast-required coil, for instance. Or leaving the ignition on and the engine not running for extended periods. Or racing. That's hard on everything).

 

There's other stuff more important than replacing working parts.

Quantify working parts I.e. even though it's doing it's job, doesn't mean replacing it won't make it better.

 

Example, your engine oil is still lubricating the components it needs to, why replace it?

 

Your spark plugs still provide spark, why replace them?

 

Your tyres are still round, why replace them? Etc, etc etc, etc

 

I'm done clogging up the OP's thread.

 

If anyone wants to debate the merits of replacing parts that don't appear to have degraded based on looks alone, please send me a PM.

 

Thanks

 

Jason

[metalmonkey47]

At the same time, it couldn't hurt to change trans fluid and diff oil at the same time. 

 

Trans (manual) gets 80W 90 GL4 only. Must be GL4 or listed as yellow metal safe. 

 

Auto (if you have it) I think uses a Dex/Merc

 

Diff gets 80W 90 GL5.

 

 

Couldn't hurt to check the bearings for play, and steering components (center link, tie rod end, pitman arm, etc) for play. You might be surprised what's worn out.

 

Also adjust your dear drums, and remove the slack from the parking brake cable. I'm sure it's stretch and probably hasn't been adjusted in years. 

 

 

Pretty sure everyone's covered everything else. 

[metalmonkey47]

Also everyone remember, we're advising the OP on preventative maintenance.

 

Personally, I'd rather not break down in the middle of nowhere because I trusted a possibly 30 year old part to keep working. You all know as well as I do that if you could afford to, you'd replace every inch of your car/truck/wagon with brand new quality parts if you could afford to.

[racerx]

that's a stretch....test the coil before replacing it.  If it's bad then replace if it is w/in ohm spec. keep it or if it puts out good spark.  Coils don't have mileage wear like oil or even tires.