Wesglock Posted February 5, 2013 Report Share Posted February 5, 2013 So, if I was to remove the heater core and not replace it (run the car without heater), what hoses, etc.. would need to be plugged up? Quote Link to comment
Tristin Posted February 5, 2013 Report Share Posted February 5, 2013 You would just need to plug the heater hoses that come out of the block. You should be able to see them going through the firewall. Quote Link to comment
Laecaon Posted February 5, 2013 Report Share Posted February 5, 2013 Basically plug the L attached to the rear of the head on the passenger side. And plug the inlet to the waterpump for the water line coming from the firewall. Quote Link to comment
king bee66 Posted February 5, 2013 Report Share Posted February 5, 2013 just bypass the core, get a long hose and loop it from the back of the head to the block Quote Link to comment
crackerjack69 Posted February 5, 2013 Report Share Posted February 5, 2013 ^^^^^ what he said. "plugging" a pressurized water cooling system would not be something I'd do on my car. I mean, how you gonna plug it? What are the risks of the plug failing? On the other hand, you run a loop of heater hose from the head to the motor, and you have a cheap effective solution. Just my opinion. We do this all the time when you got a hole in the core and not enough time/money to fix it right away. Quote Link to comment
Laecaon Posted February 5, 2013 Report Share Posted February 5, 2013 Isnt plugging the same as simply shutting the valve off to the heater...? Quote Link to comment
Tristin Posted February 5, 2013 Report Share Posted February 5, 2013 Yes you can actually plus the hose if you wanted to... theres a possibility that it blows, but when I suggested it, I was talking about removing the hose entirely and plugging it at the block. Quote Link to comment
crackerjack69 Posted February 5, 2013 Report Share Posted February 5, 2013 Plugging is plugging. Shutting off the valve seems reasonable, jamming the the outlet on the head full of JB weld... Is what I think of when I hear "plugging". LOLZ. I did just "plug" some of those smog exhaust runners with JB weld the other weekend, temporary till I pick up some NPT plugs. Quote Link to comment
crackerjack69 Posted February 5, 2013 Report Share Posted February 5, 2013 Yes you can actually plus the hose if you wanted to... theres a possibility that it blows, but when I suggested it, I was talking about removing the hose entirely and plugging it at the block. Plug with...? Quote Link to comment
Tristin Posted February 5, 2013 Report Share Posted February 5, 2013 Ive seen people tap and plug the block before... no I didnt mean JB Weld lol. Quote Link to comment
Laecaon Posted February 5, 2013 Report Share Posted February 5, 2013 You dont even need to tap the head. Its already threaded... As for the port at the water pump inlet, Probably not the smartest to tap that... lols Quote Link to comment
king bee66 Posted February 6, 2013 Report Share Posted February 6, 2013 i suggested to loop it, in case he ever actually wanted to fix the problem it would be easy enough to link back into the heater box without hassle. Quote Link to comment
HRH Posted February 12, 2013 Report Share Posted February 12, 2013 Just put a pipe plug in the rear block fitting, and weld up the return coolant line off the water neck. Problem solved. Capping or plugging off isn't any problem. It's only 16 psi of pressure. You'd want to use something OTHER than a vacuum cap that fit, mind you. Looping the lines ahead of the firewal is easier. Or just twist the rear block plug so it faces the front water outlet hole and connect it via a single hose. Viola, bypassed heater core. Quote Link to comment
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.