Datsun R Fun Posted February 3, 2013 Report Share Posted February 3, 2013 first time ya press brake pedal it goes straight to floor, let up and press brake again it is firm. what are the parts of braking sytem that may cause this behavior? Quote Link to comment
JoeCool Posted February 3, 2013 Report Share Posted February 3, 2013 Sounds like air in the lines. May be a loose fitting, hole in brake line, or hopefully not a caliper or master cylinder leak. Start with "bleeding" the brakes first. May be just as simple as that. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted February 3, 2013 Report Share Posted February 3, 2013 Look at the two reservoirs on the master cylinder. Is one dry? Quote Link to comment
JoeCool Posted February 3, 2013 Report Share Posted February 3, 2013 Forgot about that. My rear reservoir was dry when I got my truck and the worn out cap let air in. But all mine did was the rear drums would stick. Quote Link to comment
Datsun R Fun Posted February 3, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 3, 2013 so far nothing was dry. cap was bad on one of the resivoirs, not tryed finding new one yet, have ask buddy to come over and help me bleed them. at one point i seen a diagram for bleeding porcedure, shopuld i bleed every thing, mc,nslv,and the wheels ? Quote Link to comment
mklotz70 Posted February 3, 2013 Report Share Posted February 3, 2013 If the pedal is spongy when you press firm, you have air in the line. If it's good and solid, the adjustment is way loose at the brake shoes. Your first press is pushing fluid into the slave cyls, but they're not meeting any resistance from the shoes contacting the drums. The second press pushes them out far enough to get resistance. Adjust the shoes per the manual before you bleed them or you won't be able to bleed them to begin with. You can find most of the manual on the tech page of www.olddatsuns.com Quote Link to comment
Datsun R Fun Posted February 15, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 15, 2013 ok so tore into it yesterday, found my issue was a seized break adjuster, and because of that it needed readjustment. no bleeding needed. thanks for the ideas everyone. what would be good procedure to do break/clutch fluid change ? Quote Link to comment
TENDRIL Posted February 17, 2013 Report Share Posted February 17, 2013 drain and push air thur with compressor thru all lines fill up and bleed Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted February 17, 2013 Report Share Posted February 17, 2013 You could. I would just have someone keep the master filled while someone pumps the brake while you loosen and tighten the bleeders. This way no air is introduced and the good fluid just pushes the old fluid out ahead of it. As there is no air introduced the master need not be bled. Go next to... load sensing valve front bleeder front wheels any order, rear left rear right load sensor, rear bleeder load sensor, center bleeder Quote Link to comment
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